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#61
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Jimmo is the Ford balancer pulley bigger or smaller than Pontiac ?
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
#62
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Its smaller along with the other pulleys. I am going to post all of the diameters, new vs. old. I measued up before I started the project and If I remember correct, The ratios of all driven accessories remain almost exactly the same as stock except for the power steering which will turn slightly slower than before. I read somewhere that the pumps were overdriven in the 70s so I was hopin to drive the pump slower anyway. Dont know if that statement is true though. We ll see what the steering is like pretty soon though.
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#63
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Stage 1 is complete
I took a bunch of pics and measurements. The job would actually be pretty easy to duplicate if you have someone that can bore the crank pulley. It only needs to be opened up about .090".
Is it possible to write it up in a word document with pics and import it here or will I be limited because of file size? Here is a link to a short vid of it running, I totally forgot about keeping the clutch fan vertical when not installed and now its locked up thats the reason for all the wind noise in the vid. http://contour.com/stories/serp-test and here is one of the possible routing with AC. I'll probably hold off on that job till next winter. http://contour.com/stories/possible-config-with-ac Can anyone tell me if my fan will be OK if it sits a while or do I now need a new one? |
#64
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I think you can post docs online through google docs...not positive.
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#65
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You can post the photos here. Use the go advanced tab at the bottom of this page. Open the go advanced tab. there is a window to post a message. Just below the message window there is another tab labeled Manage Attachments. Click that tab, another window will open
Labled Manage attachments. with a browse button open that button. this will take you to your computer find the file with the photos to up load. Select the photos you want to upload and select open the browser window will open select upload the photos will be attache to the message. The test and tune forum is available to test your photo posting skills there are also sticky instructions to help.
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Its ok to giggle and snicker, Dont laugh and point |
#66
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Clutch fan vertical? That's a new one to me... while sitting on store shelves, they are stored in boxes that are horizontal, vertical, upside down, tilted, etc.
Maybe it just went bad.
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John IG: @crawdaddycustoms YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCK9...Nc_lk1Q/videos |
#67
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Looks great! I've wanting to do that for long time.
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
#68
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Jimmo,
On your A/C setup, is it possible to put the idler on the top side- between the A/C and W/P? It looks like the wrap around for the W/P would be greatly improved (if I'm seeing it correctly). Any pix of the finished brackets/spacers/etc. laid out for display? Thanks!
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John IG: @crawdaddycustoms YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCK9...Nc_lk1Q/videos |
#69
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In this pic is everything you need for the conversion:
Crankshaft pulley-1990 F-150.......junkyard Water Pump pulley- 1985 Crown Victoria........junkyard Power steering pulley- Mid 80,s Chevy truck........junkyard Alternator Pulley- 1998 VW jetta 2.0..............junkyard Power steering spacer plate- This has to be made from 5/8” flat stock. I chose 6061 aluminum as it is easy to work with........................can be purchased from speedymetals.com Alt bracket spacer- 3/8” ID x 3/4” OD x 5/8” length …....can be purchased from aluminumspacers.com Alt bracket spacer- 5/16” ID x 3/4” OD x 5/8” length.....can be purchased from aluminumspacers.com Idler Pulley- I got mine from a subaru that just happened to be easily accessible. I made a spacer and found a suitable bolt. One can use any idler they choose as long as its spaced and fastened properly. If you choose one with a larger diameter you will need to locate it a little further from the power steering pulley than I did in my install. Fasteners needed: 3/8”x16x6-5/8” bolt 3/8”x16x4-1/2” bolt 3/8”x16x1-5/8” bolt.........not in the photo 5/16”x18x2” bolt Much more to follow... |
#70
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The water pump pulley is 17-3/8” in circumference and is 1-3/4 from the nose to the back. It just needs 4 new holes drilled to match the Pontiac pattern. The center bore is the same at 5/8”. I used a 5/8” bolt to bolt them together and used the Pontiac pulley as a drill guide. Just be careful not to damage the Pontiac pulley if you have future plans for it.
More to follow... |
#71
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The crankshaft pulley measures 20-1/2” in circumference and 2-7/16 from mounting surface to front. It needs the center bore opened up from the existing 2.380” to the Pontiac 2.465” which is on the tight side. My stock V pulley actually measured 2.472” but I like a snug fit. Next, the four holes will need to be drilled to bolt onto the Pontiac balancer. I happened to have a large socket that fit the bore nicely to align the two pulleys and used the Pontiac one as a guide.
More to follow... |
#72
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The power steering pulley needs nothing. It is 19-15/16” in circumference and has an offset of 3/4” from the nose to front rim(see pic). When pressing it on, do not bottom it out. It needs to be about .040” from flush with the shaft for proper alignment. Start off by leaving it 1/8” over and then slowly work it on until alignment is achieved.
More to follow.... |
#73
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The alternator needs to be installed with a .213” spacer behind it. I happened to have a couple of these. One may have come with the pulley from the VW in the junkyard but I am not sure. Lug nut washers also fit the shaft nicely, that is what is pictured here but only one wasnt thick enough.
More to follow... |
#74
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The existing alternator bracket require the attachment of an idler pulley. It can be any diameter and the location does not have to be in any exact position as long as it does not create interference with anything. I chose the area close to the curves because I figured it would be a more rigid part of the bracket and not flex as much as if I installed it somewhere in the middle of the flatter portion. This, however, limited my adjustment of the power steering to a fraction of what it used to be. Now all my adjustment is done at the alternator. It gets fastened with the new longer bolts and 5/8” round spacers between it and the water pump.
More to follow... |
#75
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The front power steering brackets needs the tab bent out of the way or cut off to clear the new pulley as it will be offset toward the rear. (see pics). I simply traced the rear bracket onto the 5/8” aluminum flat stock and cut out the spacer. Then I drilled two holes. I didnt want to take the time to cut the adjustment sweep into it as its not really needed anymore. The spacer gets installed between the rear power steering bracket and head using the new longer bolts.
More to follow... |
#76
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Now install the alternator with the original spacer, route the belt and tension it. The alternator will now tension the belt in the reverse manner. When the alternator is moved toward the drivers side you can slip the belt on. When the alternator is pushed to ward the passenger side the belt tightens up.
I managed to get my pulleys to within about .020". I was pulling my hair out at first but realized that my ps shaft alone had about .015" end play, so dont beet yourself up trying to get it perfect. The factory stamped pulleys just arent accurate enough. Also,keep in mind that factors like water pump and timing cover gasket thickness may affect the pulley alignment from crank to water pump. Water pump pulley shims are available. I didnt need any shims. I put mine together exactly as described and it works nice so far. I will update after I put some miles on it. I do have more pics so if there is anything ya might want a closer look at just ask. |
#77
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Quote:
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#78
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Thanx man! Do it up! or wait a bit to see if mine holds up
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#79
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Are the pictures from today with the idler pulley relocated?
You are making it really hard for me to concentrate on replacing floor panels like I need to instead of working on the belt system. It is really good of you to post all this stuff. Russ |
#80
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Maybe a dumb idea, but for those of us without access to someone able to bore out the crank pulley, would it be possible to bolt the old and new pulleys together (back to back) after drilling out the four new mounting holes, and use something like a dremel or something (die grinder? not sure of the name) to open up the new pulley's center opening to match the original?
Thanks, Russ |
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