[cnc]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

What brand crank is in it now? Who checked it before installation?

Eagle cast crank

Install was by the builder so I'm assuming It was him who installed and checked it....

[cnc]

Originally Posted by Will

Wish I was close to you, I could help you check some of this stuff before taking it back to the machine shop.

I don't know how things are in your area, but around here there is only one place I trust to grind a crank. It's amazing the shoddy workmanship so many places turn out, I can't figure out how rebuilt engines last at all with this kind of stuff going into them.

After seeing your bearings the first thing I'd be checking is runout in the main journals. If you don't have a V-block (who does?) it's easy enough to just set the crank in the block with bearings only on the end journals. Set up a dial indicator on a mag base and check for runout on the journals.

The finish on the journals is also important. Have seen some pretty rough finishes that would tend to scour a bearing.

The one bearing looks like only half of it is down to copper. I'd be checking for taper and roundness on all the journals as well. (Roundness issues will show up when checking runout also).

Obviously I don't know the shop you're working with but if they aren't checking for this kind of stuff when an engine comes back like this, I'd be looking for another shop.

Thanks for the offer as I would take it.....lol

[cnc]

pulled a few rod caps it seems the Rod End is getting down to the copper more than the cap end ,,,,also like the mains its the midpoint of the block that more wear appears on the bearings 4/6,3/7

[cnc]

few more,,,so what cause the rod bearing and/or the mains to wear down to the copper on one side but not as bad as others in certain sections of the rotating assembly.....???

One of the rod caps I looked at is obviously burnt,,,,

I still have the 350 on a stand maybe I should just put that back in it.....

[gtofreek]

You had a lot of trash pump through that engine.

[cnc]

Originally Posted by gtofreek

You had a lot of trash pump through that engine.

Paul I don't know how.....that engine was always coverd when on the stand with a plastic bag ...WTF

[rexs73gto]

If on start up the engine for any reason didn't get the oil pumped through the engine right away you could have scared the bearings right from the start & that would have pumped the bearing material through the engine & that may have ate up the bearings right from the start & then as it wore more it would just increase it as it ran. Did you prime the engine good when you first started it. It some times take as much as 1/2 hour to get oil in every place that is needed when you first go to start a new engine.??

[KO]

Primary use of oil in an engine is cooling, lubrication is secondary.

Also, the previous post is correct, priming a new engine is essential Don't stop until you see oil coming out of every pushrod. First start priming with the oil filter off, then install an oil filter pre filled with oil. Use a high quality oil filter such as Wix (Fram is not) and block the bypass in the filter housing. Another good idea is to prime the engine with the oil pump in a coffee can full of oil and you can see how the oil flows inside the engine. Too tight rod side clearances can cause oil flow restriction to the rods. Be clean and careful when assembling don't user too much silicone, I've seen way too much of this in the oil pump check ball and screen. Buy a case of brake clean and use all of it with compressed air on every part. Soap and water does not get all the fine grit out pif the bores after boring/honing. Brake clean will.

[tom s]

When I have had the rod side down to copper worse than the cap side I had detonation issues.Tom

[gtofreek]

Copper bearings from detonation will be smooth and mostly centered in the rod bearing. These were chewed away from grit, whether it came from another bearing or grit in the oil galleries, hard to say at this point.

Do the rear oil gallery plugs and the one by the distributor have a square drive opening or a hex? If they are square, I'm guessing they were never removed. Don't know any shops that re-install those factory square drive plugs.

[77 TRASHCAN]

There's few folks I trust to do engine work...

I hope you can repair this situation, w/o doing the 350 deal...
Everything in an engine has to be PERFECTLY clean, all the block oil passages, crank oil passages...it takes me a long time of cleaning with a set of those long brushes before am satisfied...hot soap and water, brake clean, several times, till I'm sure.

Hope this deal works out...
Jeff

[Ben M.]

Originally Posted by 77 TRASHCAN

Everything in an engine has to be PERFECTLY clean, all the block oil passages, crank oil passages...it takes me a long time of cleaning with a set of those long brushes before am satisfied...hot soap and water, brake clean, several times, till I'm sure.

Last engine I did was completely spotless and beautiful... until I started spraying out the oil passages with brake cleaner and WD40. Same with the engine cooling passages. You'd be amazed what most shops will leave in a block and it's all on us to clean it ourselves.

[cnc]

Originally Posted by gtofreek

Copper bearings from detonation will be smooth and mostly centered in the rod bearing. These were chewed away from grit, whether it came from another bearing or grit in the oil galleries, hard to say at this point.

Do the rear oil gallery plugs and the one by the distributor have a square drive opening or a hex? If they are square, I'm guessing they were never removed. Don't know any shops that re-install those factory square drive plugs.

Paul I'll check tomorrow and post back ,,,think they are square drive ....

[rexs73gto]

The best way to clean it is take it in & have the block boiled out & then bring it home & go through it with all the brushes & brake cleaner & then with LOTS of DAWN dish soap & HOT HOT water. Rinse it with hot water & lot of air in all the oil passages. When you think it's clean spray it again with the brake cleaner & wash it again so you know it's all out. DAWN dish soap is the only dish soap to use, DO NOT USE ANY THING ELSE !!!!!!!! let it air dry then when it's dry use compressed air to blow out EVERY passage so anything left in comes out. Then put it together then. Keep the doors closed & don't run in & out while your doing this as dirt will get in if your not careful. Cover when ever you leave it, even for a short time, unless you have a clean room for just your engine build.

[cnc]

Well after discussing the engine with Torquewar ,,I have decided to have all the machine work done and we will clean, assemble and check all of it ourselves.....
Like the old saying " If ya want something done right ...................................

[johnta1]

Does that oil hole really have that big of a grind on it?

[cnc]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Does that oil hole really have that big of a grind on it?

I guess so I've never touched it LOL
Might just be the angle of the pic????

I can take more pics of it

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Does that oil hole really have that big of a grind on it?

A tad bit excessive I'd say! Just a tad! Tad hell, that's more like a fox hole!

[cnc]

Originally Posted by gtofreek

A tad bit excessive I'd say! Just a tad! Tad hell, that's more like a fox hole!

Cranks is goin in the Garbage or I'll make something out of it for the Garage ....

[cnc]

NOW ....the new crank will be neutral balanced ( with the rotating assembly) per the norm

With the NEUTRAL balanced flexplate PRW SFI as well as the balancer Powerbond SFI which appear to be adjusted with holes drilled I assume they are balanced to the junk crank......

Do I need to take the 2 items to the shop and have them RE-balanced neutrally now to the new rotating assembly since they have been " adjusted " or r they NFG and only good for the junk crank.....