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Old 11-24-2021, 06:08 PM
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Default S 10 wiring harness removal help

I have a fire damaged 2001 S 10 that I am trying to replace the ignition switch wiring harness in. I have everything loose except the part that plugs into the bottom of the switch. How do I get it out?
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  #2  
Old 11-24-2021, 06:38 PM
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Lock tabs are in the two small rectangle shaped holes in your circle. One on the left and one on the right. The whole switch slides out.

Watch here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXKp3UEXnUQ&t=377s

Clay

  #3  
Old 11-24-2021, 07:46 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply. That is just what I needed.

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Old 11-25-2021, 12:01 AM
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I have seen them melted in also!

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Old 11-25-2021, 01:46 PM
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I got the old harness out, the new one in and the truck still will not start. New gas tank, fuel pump and lines. I get gas up to the test port on the back of the motor. I can squirt a little starter fluid in the intake and motor fires right off but only runs a second or two.

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Old 11-25-2021, 02:27 PM
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Got to figure out if its no power to the injectors or the computer not doing the ground that triggers the injectors.

No power is easy enough with fuses and relays... Test light is good enough to probe injector wires.

No ground trigger, from computer, can get deep

Clay

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Old 11-25-2021, 10:58 PM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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Is this a 4.3 Vortech central injected engine? (Spider injection? If it is, you MUST check fuel pressure with an accurate gauge at the central injector unit. You must have the minimum fuel pump pressure necessary to open the mechanical popit injectors. Pressure needs to be 55-61 PSI period. 53 PSI = no start. If it runs on starter fluid, ignition system and engine mechanical is probably OK. Fuel pumps are super high failure on these engines. Aftermarket pumps like Airtex may not make enough pressure brand new. AC Delco or Delphi pumps only for these vehicles. Good luck with it. Remember new does not mean it's good. It only means it's different. Just last week spent 6 hours of backbreaking work putting a "NEW" fuel pump in a Hyundai. Car now runs but fuel gauge doesn't work! Damn.

Another quick test you can do if you really feel the fuel pump is good is check the circuit for amperage capability. A test light will NOT work. You need to hook up a high draw light, like an old headlight to the fuel pump circuit. Unplug it and hook the headlight with jumpers to the power and ground in the 4 wire fuel pump connector. Cycle the key and the headlight should come on full bright for 3 seconds and turn off. If it's not full bright, most likely the ground wire that goes to the frame is not clean and making a nice ground fix that next.


Last edited by mgarblik; 11-25-2021 at 11:06 PM.
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Old 11-26-2021, 01:12 AM
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This truck sat up for over 5 years without being cranked. The old gas tank was rusted to the point that the top was gone and remnants were laying in the sludge in the bottom. I did test the new pump but if I remember correctly the pressure was about 51 or 52 psi. I understand there is a newer spider that will work on this motor. Do you know which one it is and does it take less pressure?

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Old 11-26-2021, 09:40 PM
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Yes, The brand new spider assembly does away with the mechanical popit valves and replaces them with electrical injectors at the end of each "plastic straw" It looks quite a bit different than the OE unit but is a direct replacement. In theory, it would operate at lower pressure than the OE unit. Delco sells the replacement. Looks like Amazon has all different brands.

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Old 11-26-2021, 10:42 PM
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I tested the fuel pump pressure today. I used a jumper wire from the battery to a slot on the fuel pump relay as I was told to do. Initial pressure was 62 psi. When I disconnected the jumper wire the pressure dropped quickly to 58 psi then very slowly to about 55psi were it remained until I bled the pressure from the gauge. I repeated the test three or four times with the same results so I am thinking the fuel pump is good.
After removing the gauge I decided to try cranking the motor but the new battery was completely dead. So, I charged the battery and tried cranking again, now the fuel pump will not initiate when I turn the key on. I think I may have messed up when I first hooked the jumper wire up as it came out of the fuel pump slot in the fuse box and arced against a 15 amp fuse marked ECM that was not fully inserted in its slot right next to the fuel pump relay. Could that short arc have fried the ECM?

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Old 11-26-2021, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgarblik View Post
Yes, The brand new spider assembly does away with the mechanical popit valves and replaces them with electrical injectors at the end of each "plastic straw" It looks quite a bit different than the OE unit but is a direct replacement. In theory, it would operate at lower pressure than the OE unit. Delco sells the replacement. Looks like Amazon has all different brands.
Can you give this old man a part number for the new spider?

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Old 11-27-2021, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fyrffytr1 View Post
Can you give this old man a part number for the new spider?
I found them.

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Old 11-27-2021, 10:44 PM
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I agree the fuel pump seems to be OK. It's unlikely you killed the PCM but check the PCM fuses. Also, the 3 second run time key on will only happen 1 time per key cycle. So turn ignition off, wait 5-10 seconds and then try again. The PCM needs to power down between tries. Hopefully it's on the mend now.

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Old 11-27-2021, 11:48 PM
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I went out this afternoon and had no luck! I checked all the fuses and none were blown. I shot a little starter fluid in the intake and the truck cranked and ran for about three seconds. I don't want to use too much ether. I did not try bypassing the fuel pump relay again but will do that tomorrow. If it isn't one thing it's another!

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Old 11-28-2021, 10:03 AM
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I know these things can be a little frustrating. I am attaching a fuel pump wiring diagram for your truck fuel pump circuit. I forgot this truck should have a fuel pump test/prime wire. It is usually gray and it's a loose pigtail single wire usually near the battery box, or the ruse/relay center under the hood. You put 12 volts to that connector with a fused jumper wire and the fuel pump should run. Hope this helps.
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  #16  
Old 11-29-2021, 12:33 AM
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Thanks for the diagram. It was cold and rainy here today so I didn't mess with the truck. Supposed to be back in the mid to upper 70s by Wednesday. I'll check it out Tuesday or Wednesday.

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Old 11-30-2021, 11:30 PM
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The fuel pump runs if I use a jumper from the + side of the battery to the relay plug in the fuse box but not from the key on.

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Old 12-01-2021, 10:36 AM
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Three second prime is all you get from the fuel pump when you first turn the key to run position. Fuel pump should come on and run when you turn the key to crank. If the engine fires off, the computer keeps the fuel pump turned on.

If the computer isn't receiving a tach/RPM signal, when your turning the engine over, it will not trip the injectors and give the engine gas to run.

Bunch of these trucks had security systems to prevent theft. They let the starter work but the engine would not start.

You've got fuel pressure. Engine will start if you prime it. I'd be checking the injector wires for power with key 'ON/RUN' and for the blink-blink-blink ground signal, from the computer, when your turning the engine over.

Clay

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Old 12-01-2021, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER" View Post
Three second prime is all you get from the fuel pump when you first turn the key to run position. Fuel pump should come on and run when you turn the key to crank. If the engine fires off, the computer keeps the fuel pump turned on.

If the computer isn't receiving a tach/RPM signal, when your turning the engine over, it will not trip the injectors and give the engine gas to run.

Bunch of these trucks had security systems to prevent theft. They let the starter work but the engine would not start.

You've got fuel pressure. Engine will start if you prime it. I'd be checking the injector wires for power with key 'ON/RUN' and for the blink-blink-blink ground signal, from the computer, when your turning the engine over.

Clay
OK. That is getting a little out of my area of expertise. Can you guide me in how to test the wires? Heck. can you tell me where they are?

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Old 12-01-2021, 04:55 PM
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Is there a way to bypass the security system?

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