#21  
Old 05-14-2021, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 78w72 View Post
that would be great. strange felt it was enough of a difference to mention it & suggested i should decide now vs down the road... but then again the guy was trying to sell an additional forged pinion yoke.

so like FJ said, its probably not that much different between the 2 & the allowed slack for the yoke in the trans would allow for a slight difference. funny though when i asked what the acceptable in & out play is for the trans yoke, he said they dont go by that & use the dimensions they ask for when ordering a driveshaft, yet my local driveline shop & other driveline companies mention it as a way to verify the drive shaft length, think it was like .75-1" or something close to that.
The driveline shop I use locally likes to see about 2-3 inches of spline engagement. That usually ends up with the driveshaft back about 1 inch from full engagement. As the rear moves up and down the driveshaft doesn't really move in and out all that much.

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  #22  
Old 05-14-2021, 05:06 PM
78w72 78w72 is offline
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yes thats what i meant, about an inch from bottomed out.

depending on the measurements TAman comes up with, maybe strange can factor the difference & let me know if i can get away with using a conversion joint now & be able to swap to a 1350 pinion yoke later. im ok with using a rear conversion at my power level if they say it wont work to build it for both ways.

  #23  
Old 05-14-2021, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 78w72 View Post
yes thats what i meant, about an inch from bottomed out.

depending on the measurements TAman comes up with, maybe strange can factor the difference & let me know if i can get away with using a conversion joint now & be able to swap to a 1350 pinion yoke later. im ok with using a rear conversion at my power level if they say it wont work to build it for both ways.
That's how I did mine and it appears it's going to work fine. Right now I'm about an inch from bottoming out the yoke with the adapter joint installed. So as long as a 1350 yoke isn't longer coming out of the rearend for some strange reason, and I don't think it will be or shouldn't be, then swapping to the 1350 joint will work fine as the diameter difference of the cap moving the driveshaft forward is only .032".

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  #24  
Old 05-15-2021, 10:05 PM
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After installing my rebuilt rearend, new leaf springs, shocks and caltracs on my car I almost forgot to measure.

I measured from the rear end housing to the center of the u joint in the diff yoke.

Factory 80 trans am 3r diff yoke 2 5/8"
80 Trans Am Strange CM diff yoke 1350 2 7/8"

Attached is the Strange 1350 CM diff yoke....once you go from the 3r funky retainment to this...you feel pretty comfortable.
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  #25  
Old 05-16-2021, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ta man View Post
After installing my rebuilt rearend, new leaf springs, shocks and caltracs on my car I almost forgot to measure.

I measured from the rear end housing to the center of the u joint in the diff yoke.

Factory 80 trans am 3r diff yoke 2 5/8"
80 Trans Am Strange CM diff yoke 1350 2 7/8"

Attached is the Strange 1350 CM diff yoke....once you go from the 3r funky retainment to this...you feel pretty comfortable.
thanks for measuring it. so it looks like about 1/8" for the pinion yoke & 1/16 for the Ujoint, 3/16 total difference using the 1350, shouldnt be an issue if the shaft length can compensate for that.

can anyone confirm what rear joint a 72 firebird with 350/350 used? i will measure to confirm before i order but i always thought it was a 1310 that uses the straps to hold it in the diff yoke that has centering tabs. did they change to a smaller u joint for later years, is that maybe the 3R?

  #26  
Old 05-16-2021, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 78w72 View Post
thanks for measuring it. so it looks like about 1/8" for the pinion yoke & 1/16 for the Ujoint, 3/16 total difference using the 1350, shouldnt be an issue if the shaft length can compensate for that.

can anyone confirm what rear joint a 72 firebird with 350/350 used? i will measure to confirm before i order but i always thought it was a 1310 that uses the straps to hold it in the diff yoke that has centering tabs. did they change to a smaller u joint for later years, is that maybe the 3R?
It should be 1/4 inch for the pinion yoke. Zero for the u joint swap from a conversion to 1350..the u joint is measured from center..the center on the driveshaft u joint does not change when its swapped from a conversion u joint to a 1350. Your total driveshaft length required becomes 1/4 inch shorter.

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  #27  
Old 05-16-2021, 12:46 PM
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sorry read that wrong & was too early in the morning, yes 1/4" difference in the diff yoke.

  #28  
Old 05-16-2021, 10:44 PM
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Before I bought the Strange forged 1350 yoke I used one off a '90's 1500 truck. 1350 and bolted right my '71 F body rear end. No conversion joint necessary. It fit my 10 bolt and my '70 12 bolt. I got it at the junkyard and paid I think $20 for it.

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  #29  
Old 05-17-2021, 10:48 AM
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Also be aware some front yokes are slightly different. my M-W was different enough when I measured for them compared to a factory yoke the driveshaft was longer than if I used a factory yoke.

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  #30  
Old 02-21-2022, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joes455 View Post
Anyone make this combo in a non greeseable u joint?
did you ever find a solid 1350 conversion u joint? ive checked quite a few places & not seeing any solid conversion u joints for any size or brand.

anyone know why a solid conversion joint isnt available or so hard to find? is it because of how they are made like the strange tech i talked to explained or is it how lakewood/holly tech just said on their website chat that there is no demand? seems like one could be made the same as how they make a standard u joint or even CNC machined that way.

  #31  
Old 02-21-2022, 06:50 PM
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I know my MW yoke was different from a factory TH 400 yoke when I swapped the TH400 in the Camaro. Old SBC and ST10 with the 12 bolt used a stock type front toke. . The MW yoke took a longer driveshaft a 48.5. Same that was too long with a factory yoke.

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Skip Fix
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1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project
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  #32  
Old 02-21-2022, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip Fix View Post
I know my MW yoke was different from a factory TH 400 yoke when I swapped the TH400 in the Camaro. Old SBC and ST10 with the 12 bolt used a stock type front toke. . The MW yoke took a longer driveshaft a 48.5. Same that was too long with a factory yoke.
thanks. more concerned with a solid conversion Ujoint, they are all greaseable from what ive found so far.

  #33  
Old 02-21-2022, 09:16 PM
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As far as I know, the conversion joints are all greasable. Which is fine actually, the conversion joints, in my mind, are just a temporary work around until a proper yoke is installed so a proper 1350 non greaseable joint can be used.

As I may have mentioned previously, either here or another thread, at this point it's not necessarily the u-joint that is the weak link, but the smaller cast yoke.

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