[Shiny]

That is ingenious and well-executed. We will need video of the winch operation. Very cool!

[dataway]

While I'm on the top of leveling things .... who makes a good shrinking disc and would they be useful in the hands of an amateur?

[mrennie]

Originally Posted by dataway

While I'm on the top of leveling things .... who makes a good shrinking disc and would they be useful in the hands of an amateur?

Wray Schlein (probably spelling this wrong) sells (sold?) them on eBay. I bought the kit about 7-8 years ago that came with DVD, 10" and 5" disc. You are best to use the bigger disc on a slow 9" electric sander. The smaller disc works OK in tight spots but the bigger one is the hot ticket.

Are they useful for an amateur? Well...it depends. You need to understand how they work and be attentive to what is happening when you use it.

Based on all your posts I get the feeling you could figure it out fairly quickly

Before I bought mine, I read many posts about them by SevtChevelle on the Chevelle body shop forum. His descriptions were very good and understandable so I gave it a shot.

I had around 6 good sized dents in my roof, and the first one I worked on took me awhile to figure out, but once I got the hang of it, it worked like magic. Out of all those dents, they all came out requiring ZERO filler except the one that had a brace under it preventing me from getting the dolly in there.

It's yet another skill to be learned while fixing your car. I think you can do it.

Make sure you get the big disc with rolled edge and backing disc. There are several sellers but Wray Schlein is the seller you want to buy from.

[mrennie]

I will see if I can find some pics later of before and after to show what can be achieved.

Here is the kit. It is 9" (not 10") with 5".

https://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eB...rsion=f1bbb6f1

[dataway]

Almost all my dents are in blind areas with no access to the back. I assume a shrinker will still help removing the highs after I use whatever method I can to raise up the low spots?

Is a propane torch suitable for torch shrinking? Or should I use my Oxy/Act ?

I may end up using the MIG to weld on some studs for pulling.

[mrennie]

Bummer, I searched hundreds of pics and can't find any of taking dents out

Also, forgot to mention that in addition to the shrinking disc, another tool called a slapper bar is needed to help distribute the force of moving the metal as you are removing the dent.

The idea being that you push the dolly up against the low spot from behind the dent, and slap the surrounding high metal down from above the dent. Then shrink the remaining high spots, and then again push up from behind with the dolly under the low spot and slap down the high spots. Then shrink high spots again. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Once things are getting close, the remaining low spots can be moved up by doing hammer on dolly to stretch the lows, and continue the whole process until it is all the same height.

If there is no access to the back of the dent, things are way more difficult. I tried pulling with studs on a dent in my rocker and was able to get it somewhat better but not perfect. I have never tried shrinking with a torch, as I was too scared of messing things up. Lots of other guys here have, interested to hear their advice.

[Shiny]

Shrinking disc was a life saver for my one-time adventure.

It is DEFINITELY beginner-friendly and much harder to make mistakes than with a hammer and dolly.

You need one.

[dataway]

Yep a slapper is on my list ... watched that guys video and realized I was using a dolly completely wrong, I was using it as the anvil, not the fulcrum.

And that guys shrinking disc is on the list, will come in handy for some hood and fender dents I have.

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

There are hardly any flat surfaces on the '68 to '72 A bodies... Trunk lid and.... Well, that's about it.

There are no “Flat Panels “ on any car ever made

[dataway]

You talking Rick Sanchez flat, or regular flat?

[Greg Reid]

What's the distinction between a 'surface' and a 'panel'?
I think the center area..maybe a 3 to 4 square foot area of a '68 trunk lid, is a flat surface. The entire panel though...different story.

[dataway]

Volkswagen "Thing", early Land Cruisers and Rovers, Willys Jeep, UPS truck, mail delivery vehicles, my first girlfriend.

[69gtocv]

Originally Posted by dataway

my first girlfriend.

ROFLMAO!!!

[webfoot]

I like durablocks and also the "adjustable flexible sanders" you can find in varying lengths. They have removable rods so you can adjust the flexibility for contours.

[dataway]

Are the blocks useful for the fine grades of sand paper like 600-2000 ?

[n20ta2]

Anything finer then 600 grit I like to use a 1"×4" durablock or a 2x4 x1/2 durablock. Usually above that grit your cutting paint or clear and not leveling a panel so a large block isn't necessary.

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by webfoot

I like durablocks and also the "adjustable flexible sanders" you can find in varying lengths. They have removable rods so you can adjust the flexibility for contours.

The maker of those AFS sanding blocks passed away and they are no longer available. If you have any they are gold.

Don

[MUSLCAH]

I retired all my wooden sanding boards about 5 years ago....maybe longer...Love the hook-it paper on the foam blocks.

[dataway]

Yep so far I'm loving the durablocks and the adhesive paper .... jeez, world of difference between my old wood longboards and rubber blocks where you had to fold up the paper and wasted 30% of it in the slots of the block.