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#21
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I haven't been able to get the car out of the trailer to do anything to it yet, but I think shielding the wire would be a good first step.
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#22
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Sent a PM with email and other helpful information. Go ahead and email the msq tune file even if the logs are too big.
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
#23
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does this car have an alternator ??? if so try unplugging it and running the engine again
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#24
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The car does have an alternator. It is a smaller unit, I think around 40 amps. Sorry if it is a silly questions, but what might unplugging it do to help. I am completely new to the Electronics game. At least with anything more than a 6AL Box and 2 step. LOL
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#25
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The alternator helps. Steady voltage helps with all settings that use voltage offset correction, coils, and injectors... Everything just has to be wired right. New cars all run alternators with lots of electronics and multiple control units. High current leads don't need to run close to or parallel to sensitive sensor wires. Really critical sensor wires like speed sensors, crank, cam, shaft speed, vehicle speed, even tps should be shielded preferably or otherwise very well insulated. Take power straight from the battery were possible for those too. Good centralized grounding with minimization of loops(multiple different paths to ground.
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
#26
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I was involved helping to fix an EFI car that would miss and do strange **** at higher rpm -- as a last resort we unhooked the alternator and bingo all better we suspected a bad diode or something in the alt causing strange spikes eclectically.
just a thought |
#27
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As a test for that yes. Spikes are bad for sure! But it does introduce other unintended consequences with the dwell correction with an already problematic situation. The OP should be able to see the noise in the datalogs either directly at the problem area (crank signal) or in the voltage readings, and probably other areas if he has other sensors...
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
#28
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May be worth a try as a test. I mean, it costs nothing to try. I am going to get the car out of the trailer this weekend and begin some hands on testing.
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#29
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Quote:
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#30
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You can power on the ecu and go into the datalogging tab and you can click the SD(browse/import) icon. It will allow you to download them. If you haven't changed the settings from default, it will be trying to log while you're doing this. It will give you a message that I can't quote verbatim, but basically asking to pause the logging to move on to the the download part. They are SLOW to download, be patient. If you want, once you have all of them you want, you can delete them and then change the settings to only log above a certain rpm, say 400 or so. Then you won't have a blank log from every time you power on but don't start the car... It helps. The process can be a little tedious til u get used to it. But if you have even one good log that shows "normal and fubar" you'll have something to work with. The help tab should take you to a section of the manual that will guide you if you have trouble.
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 Last edited by Scott65; 05-05-2021 at 10:58 PM. |
#31
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Just something to think about, a buddy of mine restored a Harley for a guy and was having electrical issues. He tracked it down to a pin in one connector that was loose and sliding back when the connector got plugged in. Might not be your issue but wouldn’t take long to check
Good luck in finding your issues and getting them sorted out |
#32
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Quote:
Last edited by adynes; 05-06-2021 at 08:04 PM. |
#33
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Quote:
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#34
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Definitely going to look when I replace the current wiring with shielded wiring.
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#35
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I was so paranoid when I did mine, I checked continuity across all the splices and connections that I could reach both sides of with a meter... I made one bad connection, but it was easy to spot. Got a tiny single strand of shield cable hanging out where it could touch the actual connector... TPS wire so it went berserk and I knew... Check everything
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
#36
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Just wanted to update:
I installed the new shielded wire. Got the car back up and running. It still has some sync loss errors. While revving the car, I had a total of 8 missed syncs. They began around 5155 RPM. It gave a lost sync reason code of two, which means that it is detecting the missing tooth on the trigger wheel at the wrong time. My research so far tells me that it is because it is still picking up noise on the crank signal input line. I may try and play with the noise filtering now and see if that helps. |
#37
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What wires did you end up shielding? Just signal, or ground and power also? I would do all if it were me.
You may have already come across this thread in your searching... https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewt...?f=131&t=70265 Interesting about the capacitors. Not sure if the Gold Box would need these or not. Can you post some pictures of the engine bay, crank sensor, wire routing, etc? Maybe somebody will see something. |
#38
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Quote:
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#39
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If it's that close, I'd say definitely worth a try to move it, if it's not too difficult to do so. What kind of pump?
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#40
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It is a Holley Blue Pump. I wonder if there is a way to isolate or shield the pump from interferring?
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