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#1
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Need Info Removing 67 Ignition Switch
Greetings friends, I need some help. Can anyone please give me the steps in order on how remove my 1967 ignition switch? I'm trying to help an older man on his 1967 Le Mans, that he bought new. Some years ago an alarm system was installed, and the ignition switch was wired to a button used to start the car. You know, hold the key al the way to start then push that silly button. Button never worked well, and now it's not working at all. So, I want to pull the switch out so I can see how they wired the button and remove it to use the ignition switch again. I have looked in the shop manual and the restoration manual, but nothing I can find gives the steps on removing the switch. It says in the shop manual in trouble section to remove and replace if it's bad. Just not how to go about it. I would rather not have to remove the dash insert. I know I should already understand this. But old age and health issues have..... well lets just say I ain't the man I once was. Thanks, and best wishes to everyone. Mike
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Build it fast, build it right, hold On TIGHT !!! |
#2
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If he has the key, you simply put the key in and push a paper clip through the little hole on the right side of the ignition cylinder. Turn the key while pushing the paper clip in and pull out the cylinder with the key. You should then be able to unscrew the washer and remove the switch from the back of the dash.
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Andy North Carolina 1967 GTO SG over Parchment / mom original owner / sold in '78 / found 35 years later |
#3
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BTW, Turn the key & cylinder CCW.
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#4
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You may want to first remove the sliding ash-tray, and the bracket in behind the dash that holds the tray. I would also remove the radio. It's not that difficult and getting those 2 big items out of the way is going to allow you to look up and behind the dash to see the plug-in on the back of the switch.
Maybe you wouldn't have to actually remove the key and the switch. Just unplug the wires.
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Peter Serio Owner, Precision Pontiac |
#5
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Don't you have to turn the switch left to ACC first then push the paperclip in and turn some more? IIR I had to do that with mine to get the key cylinder to come out. But I could be wrong.... I ain't going out in this 100 degree crap to try it.
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Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#6
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Thank you friends, I will try both ways. With the key in the off position as well as in the ACC position. It's better than taking a pipe wrench to it. Also, I'm starting one more post about a question I have concerning the new engine harness he bought to install. I came across a little box and wire I can't find listed in the manuals, but it's factory. Thanks again to everyone for the help, and best wishes to you, and your family. Mike
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Build it fast, build it right, hold On TIGHT !!! |
#7
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Good morning, here is what I've tried. Removed the ash tray. With the key in and a paper clip in the hole I tried both straight up, and 20 degrees to the left. I spent two hours working on getting the core out but failed. This switch and core are original, and in great shape and works smooth as can be. However, I don't know why I can't remove the core. When I insert the paper clip, it goes in and then stops. As in bottoms out. I don't feel any slot or any other hole inside the core, so maybe there is a hole inside the core and I'm just not getting the clip inside it? Any idea what I should be feeling for when I insert the clip. I have no problem finding holes in my life. It's just getting something inside the hole I have a problem with. Thanks again friends, and best wishes. Mike
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Build it fast, build it right, hold On TIGHT !!! |
#8
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You have to push down on the paper clip and turn the key to the left and gently pull it towards you.
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Practicing social distancing for 65+ years |
#9
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Put the key in the accessory position (ccw), then insert the paper clip. There's a little button in there. After you push the button, the key can be turned a little further to the left, and the lock cylinder can be pulled out.
Importsmasher
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Scott Baggiore 66 GTO convertible 389/4 speed (parents bought new) 73 Firebird Formula 400/4 speed 74 GTO 455/4 speed 74 Grand Am |
#10
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From the shop manual.
"REPLACE SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER 1. Place ignition key in lock and depress lock plunger by inserting small pin through hole in lock cap. 2. While holding plunger in, turn key approximately 20° counterclockwise to release lock cylinder and remove cylinder from switch. 3. To install lock cylinder, insert key in cylinder. Then, with key and cylinder turned about 20* counter clockwise, insert cylinder in lock and rotate clockwise to lock in place." I've found a paper clip to be too flimsy. I use a small straight alan key in a holder handle. |
#11
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I remember turning it CCW to the ACC position, pushing the pin or paper clip in thru the hole to depress the spring, then turning it further CCW. it'll pop out, then unscrew the bezel normally.
To reinstall push the lock cylinder in (switch in the same position as before) and turn CW. George
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#12
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Look at the bottom right figure. The little brass button at the 1~2 o'clock position is what you're trying to depress. I can't remember if it has to be rotated to acc. position or not but the little button is spring loaded, so you'll feel it.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#13
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Thank you this helps a lot. I believe the paper clip was not strong enough so I will use a small alan wrench. Thank you again friends. Once I get it out I'll let you know. Mike
__________________
Build it fast, build it right, hold On TIGHT !!! |
#14
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I wonder if you're troubleshooting in the wrong place. If I was there I would be checking the wiring not the switch. The Purple wire coming out of the connector on the switch goes to the starter solenoid to activate the starter. It's not a direct circuit there's a small connector with 2 purple wires under the dash. If the car is an automatic it plugs into the neutral start switch on the steering column (the neutral start switch could also be the problem). If the car is a manual trans there will be a metal strap in the connector connecting the 2 purple wires together. If I had installed the system you have I would wired the push button into that purple wire somewhere. If that's the case just eliminate the push button.
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Bill Nawrot (Wino Bill) 1972 GTO Hdtp One Owner, GTOAA "Concours Best Original" 2007, 2013, and 2019 Auto-Biography http://oneownercollectorcar.com/inde...to-bill-nawrot HPP Sept. 2014 https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1972...-gee-no-g-t-o/ YouTube MCACN 2014 http://youtu.be/1IPQVPevbxU 1967 GTO Conv |
#15
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FWIW a paper clip should be more then strong enough, but a safety pin works too.
If not then something is gumming up the tumbler pin.
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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did, in his sleep. Not screaming like the passengers in his car. Last edited by Jeff Hamlin; 06-12-2015 at 05:47 PM. |
#16
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Greetings, and thanks the photographs really helped. OK I got the switch out. However, there is a problem. The purple wire was cut about 2" from the switch, and about an 8" section removed from there, to splice in the silly button. The whack job who worked on the car before, thought the ignition switch was causing the hot start problem. That's why the start button was installed. (BUTTON WAS WIRED WITH SPEAKER WIRE) This poor old man has had a few people working on his original car, and everyone messed something up. Now, looking in the shop manual it says that the purple wire goes to the neutral safety switch. But, I saw in the post here it also goes to the starter from the NS switch? Is that correct? If so, how would I fix this for him without pulling out the dash? I have the ignition switch removed and can get to what's left of the purple wire. It's sure a mess under there, and I'd like to get the new engine harness installed for him. The engine harness was a real rats nest, after he took it to the local high school to have the automotive shop work on it. It had to be towed back to his place. Thanks for al the help people, and for any advise you may have. Good day friends and best wishes to you, and your family. Mike in Oregon
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Build it fast, build it right, hold On TIGHT !!! |
#17
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You should be able to just run a new wire from the ignition switch to the neutral start connector. Would also recommend the new engine harness.
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Bill Nawrot (Wino Bill) 1972 GTO Hdtp One Owner, GTOAA "Concours Best Original" 2007, 2013, and 2019 Auto-Biography http://oneownercollectorcar.com/inde...to-bill-nawrot HPP Sept. 2014 https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1972...-gee-no-g-t-o/ YouTube MCACN 2014 http://youtu.be/1IPQVPevbxU 1967 GTO Conv |
#18
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Unless I'm misunderstandng, can't you just remove the speaker wire, along with the button and re-connect the original purple wire ends back together?
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#19
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Yes, you can do that. I was under the impression that there was a piece missing on the original purple wire.
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Bill Nawrot (Wino Bill) 1972 GTO Hdtp One Owner, GTOAA "Concours Best Original" 2007, 2013, and 2019 Auto-Biography http://oneownercollectorcar.com/inde...to-bill-nawrot HPP Sept. 2014 https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1972...-gee-no-g-t-o/ YouTube MCACN 2014 http://youtu.be/1IPQVPevbxU 1967 GTO Conv |
#20
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Thanks the reason i cant just splice wire is because 8 inches has been cut out when button was installed... he has new engine harness but i want to get dash mess f8xed before installing the engine harness. He bought this 67 new and always took great care to keep it really nice. Then few years ago he wanted more power better brakes and thats when local shops and people started messing it up. He went cheap & and didnt pay for anything but problems. Thanks again friends
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Build it fast, build it right, hold On TIGHT !!! |
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