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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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frame paint
im restoring a 69 judge and wondering what paint is best to use to paint the frame
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#2
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I'm a fan of satin rustoleum shot from a gun, or a custom mix of gloss and flat to achieve the desired finish. In my experience very durable, inexpensive, easy to refinish/repair if necessary.
Lots of people like SPI black epoxy primer also, possibly a better choice for a high dollar restoration like a Judge. |
#3
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I was at a GTO Nats a few years ago and Scott Tiemann gave a presentation on their shop and work. He said at the time they use PPG Del Fleet Essential Line. They mix 2 parts flat to 1 part black gloss to make a semi. That line is extremely durable. This after I'd say as well SPI Black epoxy on bare metal
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#4
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I’m with Dataway on this one. Rustoleum is a great one that’s often overlooked. With the gloss and flat you can match anything you want. Adding an enamel hardener to it does wonders.
SPI Epoxy is awesome stuff too and also sprays very nicely. |
#5
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Rustoleum works well....readily available. I have also used PPG DP90 and a product called zero rust.
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My money talks to me-it usually says goodbye! |
#6
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On bare steel frames I have used DP90, and DP90LF for many years. Its an epoxy so it cross links to itself AND the metal. Single stage paints use acid to etch to paint, and not much of it.they cure by air dry. Epoxy cures chemically.
With Epoxy, DP, or SPI ( just got some) you can clear coat in and gloss you like. Doing an epoxy and 2 part clear makes cleaning it a breeze.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#7
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Quote:
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My money talks to me-it usually says goodbye! |
#8
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I too recommend SPI epoxy (black) over bare metal then top coat with practically any other product line for the gloss you are looking for. Not complicated mixing, just 1 to 1 with hardener. Here's a link: https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/
The epoxy can also be left as a top coat on frames according to SPI. I used GM Vehicle Care Black Reconditioning Paint (#1050104 GR.8.800) as a top coat. Quite glossy after first spraying but dulls over time. Am very happy with end result on my 1967 GTO frame. |
The Following User Says Thank You to 6d7gto For This Useful Post: | ||
#9
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I'm a huge fan of Rustoleum also. Very easy to touch up also
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#10
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SPI Epoxy, topcoated.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
#11
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Quote:
How much do I need to thin Rustoleum? Going to shoot satin black.
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" Darksiders Rule "
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#12
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I have good luck thinning with Acetone, say 3 parts paint to one acetone. But acetone is VERY fast, so it would be better for colder temps.
I've thinned it at various times with whatever I have on hand, lacquer thinner, mineral spirits etc. and never had disastrous results. Don't think I've ever tried Urethane reducer though. I'd love it if a real painter here suggested a good reducer for Alkyd Enamels like Rustoleum. Might as well use good reducer if you can get it. Somewhere online I found, printed and laminated a list of common "thinners" and what there relative "speed" is. Covered everything from Acetone to turpentine, Naptha, etc. You can also add hardener, does wonders hardening up the final result, but can increase cure time to easily a week or more. Yes you can handle it, assemble it etc. but it won't get fully cured for probably two weeks. I've fingernail tested numerous pieces ... a week later you are kind of disappointed, you can still dig a finger nail into with effort, two weeks and you say, yea this is pretty good but still wish it was harder, a month later and you're "Man this stuff is hard" For frame and under hood I tend to mix "general" mixes by eye after you find a sweet spot, that way you can end up getting that proper slightly varied gloss level seen on factory cars between major components. To me anyway, that perfectly matching gloss level on every single part under the hood just looks way off. To repair the rustoleum .... scuff it a bit, dip a couple oz out of a can, thin it, shoot it over the problem area, let it cure, scuff it with fine steel wool to blend. Easy and cheap. For a vehicle that will see extensive driving, weather, UV etc. Epoxy would be more durable. On the exterior railings I've painted with Rustoleum for the last 30 years, it will chalk up slightly after ten years unending exposure to the weather and sun. |
#13
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As I recall, the label actually tells you how and with what to reduce it for spraying. I used acetone and just enough to make it about the consistency of milk. It worked really well for me and still looks presentable 10 or so years later.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#14
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Yes, looked at the label again. I knew it said acetone but missed the “ up to 15% ” part.
Thanks
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" Darksiders Rule "
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#15
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I'm usually spraying with a small gun using 1.2 or smaller tip ... so thinner is a bit better for me. I've tried it a the 15% and didn't feel it worked as well for me, but of course it can vary a lot depending on air pressure and tip size. Possible I could have cranked up the pressure and gotten better results.
The problem with Acetone is it is so very fast, actually about the fastest paint solvent you can get (except maybe MEK), on a summer day you'll be fighting dry spray. Between 50-60 degrees it would work well ... but this paint does need some time to lay down smooth. On a warm day I find it can be difficult to get the coats to blend without a dry spray border with Acetone. Something in between Acetone and Mineral spirits would probably work well, Mineral Spirit is pretty slow, would work well if you are painting in the sun on a warm day ... black parts get really hot in the sun. What is so great about the Rustoleum is that it's cheap and durable ... you can experiment with all kinds of solvents and mixes for next to nothing. |
The Following User Says Thank You to dataway For This Useful Post: | ||
#16
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I had a chance to visit Jay Leno's shop in '05 and asked his head guy what they put on the frames of his cars. The answer was rustoleum.
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#17
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I use Rustoleum Professional grade, buy it at ACE Hardware
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