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Old 09-28-2021, 02:54 AM
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Default General 68-69 A-body weather strip questions

Rather than starting a new topic for every weather strip question I have, I thought I'd start this topic and welcome everyone to post their questions.

I'm putting it here instead of the "Interior" section because of the substantial difference in the small details of how various years weather stripping installs.

Question one.

Are you guys gluing in your trunk weather stripping? Mine seems to fit pretty snug in the channel. The car is unlikely to ever see rain or water washing ... should I glue it in anyway?

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Old 09-28-2021, 03:43 AM
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I glued mine and actually, l do still get a bit of water in my trunk on the rare occasion when l spray it at the carwash. Never did climb in to see where it's coming from since it rarely gets wet and l'm not sure if l trust my wife to let me out!

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Old 09-28-2021, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Reid View Post
I glued mine and actually, l do still get a bit of water in my trunk on the rare occasion when l spray it at the carwash. Never did climb in to see where it's coming from since it rarely gets wet and l'm not sure if l trust my wife to let me out!
Your car gets wet???

I glued mine in. I didn't go crazy, just fitted it, then pulled it back out, ran a bead of weatherstrip adhesive in the channel. For what its worth, I had a sacrificial weatherstrip installed without adhesive during all my bodywork phases & it stayed put the whole time without issue.

I did have to initially use tape to hold the corners in the right place, but once the trunk was closed for a long duration it seemed to get a memory & the tape was removed.

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Old 09-28-2021, 10:28 AM
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Yep I was thinking I'd leave it unglued at least until I finished all the trunk work in case I need to remove it. Installed it now because I wanted to adjust the latch and gaps with the pressure from the weather strip in play.

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Old 09-28-2021, 10:29 AM
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Next question: I bought some replacement weather strip that goes in the front of the side window sash channel. Got it from Ames, pretty much totally different than OEM but looks like it might work well.

However, this window sash channel, part of the vent window post/support has a metal channel rivetted in on the lower half where it is inside the door. This replacement weather strip is not going to fit into that ... must it be removed?

The OEM setup appears to have been two pieces, one metal backed rubber that fit into the channel above the door, and this larger metal channel that held the "fuzzies" inside the door.

This replacement is long enough to go from top to bottom ... but not unless the OEM channel is removed. Should it be glued in? It fits pretty snug in the channel (in the area is can go without removing the OEM metal channel) and has the location for the anchor screw at the top.

Any advice?

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Old 09-28-2021, 12:06 PM
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I glued the channel in Data. And yes, you have to remove the old fuzzy to make it sit properly.

I set my trunk weatherstripping in about a year ago without gluing. Closed the lid and came back to it a few months later to adjust the gaps and lid.
Its an NOS piece that compresses very well.
I haven't decided to glue it in yet, but will probably do so when the car is finished.

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Old 09-28-2021, 06:14 PM
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Here is the specific channel I was talking about.

In the left of the photo you see the steel channel that is riveted in from the factory, and a picture of the rivet(s) .... so that is what I need to remove? Cause if I put the replacement channel in the recess where the steel channel came out it's not going to stick out nearly as far as the OEM piece ... I have my doubts it will catch the edge of the glass enough. Although it would be the same as the OEM channel on the vent window post .... so I don't know.


Also a couple of photos of the tool I made for putting in the inner firewall pad clips(pins) .... just a fully threaded 1/4" bolt about 3" long. Grind down the end of the bolt to knock off any sharp edges, and take the threads down a bit for more clearance. Adjust the nuts to the depth you need, tighten them, throw on some washers and tap the pins in ... lot cheaper than the $12-18 tool I see for sale ... AND adjustable I just threw it in a ziplock with the spare pins so I won't have to search for it.







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Old 10-10-2021, 04:56 AM
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What are you guys using to seal between the roof rail SS weather strip channel and the roof? The $12 each repop part .... or some off the shelf 1" wide sealing tape of some kind?
A multitude of 1" wide, various thickness adhesive rubber sealing tapes are available.

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Old 10-10-2021, 07:53 AM
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I bought the foam tape Ames has mainly becasue I was placing an order and don't have a lot of options locally. It is just a very thin black foam with PSA on one side. I'm not even sure if it is 1/16" thick, but don't have any left to measure.

I think the main thing is you want to use something that will easily compress and allow the channel to be pulled tight to the roof with no visible gap. If you use something too thick/not compressible, the channel may distort where the screws attach.

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Old 10-10-2021, 01:25 PM
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In addition to the weatherstrip, Fisher manual says to add a bead of sealant to the outboard flange of the weatherstripping.

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Old 10-11-2021, 03:46 AM
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I was thinking of using a self fusing, adhesive butyl rubber tape. So the 1/8" thick stuff I was looking at is too thick. Seems like a good bead of asphalt roof sealant would work ... that appears to be what the factory used ... some kind of nasty, hard to remove tarry stuff

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Old 10-11-2021, 01:57 PM
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The only thing I don't like about butyl tape is that if it's exposed to the exterior so that water runs over and off of it, it seems to leave dark streaks. Other than that though I think it's great for that kind of application. I've used it to seal things like that before even when I had to just cut a strip off and form it to the size needed for the application.
I used asphalt roof sealant to caulk the air box for my AC delete cover. It has held up but it does dry pretty hard and inflexible... At least the version I used did.

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Old 10-12-2021, 03:51 PM
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that tape can be handy when you get a car that the door weatherstrip lets in water at the lower front corner of the doors. This happens when body fitment requires the doors being mounted ever so slightly outside their normal factory position. This allows water into the interior right at the front of the door. The tape creates some extra thickness to insure a seal between the door and the jam.

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Old 10-12-2021, 05:04 PM
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Next questions ..... I'm trying to set the quarter window sash that just presses on to the front of the quarter glass. Using the product Ames sells for this ... so far no luck, seems way too thick. I wrapped it around the front the glass, formed it down real nice and if I try to put the metal sash on it just tears the "tape". Tried warming it up some, didn't seem to help much.

Any tips and tricks I should know?

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Old 10-12-2021, 05:21 PM
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I just replaced one of those recently and you're right, it is way too thick. I wound up using some high voltage rubber splicing tape that I've had around here for years. It's about .025" thick.
Soaped it up first and cut the excess after installation. If you can't find something similar let me know and I'll donate a yard of it to the cause.


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Old 10-12-2021, 05:43 PM
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I've got an incredible selection of tape in my shop ... I've got kind of a tape thing I thought there was something super special about this glass setting tape.

So basically, as long as I get it on there securely with something reasonably sticky on both sides I should be good? I'm seeing a LOT of similar complaints on other forums about the tape. I'll try some soap too.

I'm getting a bit disappointed with Ames ... so far about 25% of what I get from them ends up in the garbage except for the stuff they are drop shipping from someone else.

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