[gotyorgoat]

The front side of my front fenders on my 67 seem to have sagged so that the door gap is larger at the top than at the bottom. The body shop thinks that it may have been hit in the past and thinks that they may have to pull on it for an extra cost. They are aligning things before they break it down to paint which seems strange to me.

Is there a possibility that the core support bushings need to be replaced which would raise the front fenders? I was hoping that they would take it apart first so that I could see the bushings, but it sounds like they would pull on it first. there is no adjustment on the fender bolt to the firewall which would typically take up this gap.

Does anyone have a picture of a core support on a frame so that I can see the bushings?

[geeteeohguy]

The fender bolts sometimes have shims between the fender and the firewall/cowl. Something to think about. It is always a good idea to check panel alignment prior to paint work. Sounds like they are following proper procedure.

[fyrffytr1]

Did you replace any body bushings? How does the door fit along the bottom and back edge?

[gotyorgoat]

When I replaced the trunk pan, I did replace the bushings at the bracing but have not replaced anything else. It is at the body shop now, so I can't spend too much more time investigating. I was hoping that they could get it to line up easily when they broke it down and put it back together.

There are no shims at the firewall. the tabs are tight to the fire wall but look like they are bent forward a bit when the front sagged, so I think the problem is at the front support.

[squidtone]

Hi,
The factory assembly manual shows that some cars would require a bunch of shim washers between the bushing and the frame. In fact it says you should have at least one shim washer in there. It's page 230 of the assembly manual. Section 10-220 to 11-254.

These shims are simply huge FAT washers. They are the same diameter as the rubber bushing. I have some in my car. They were there with the original CHEVROLET core support bushings when I took my car apart. (It is my understanding some 67 Baltimore cars had the chevy bushings.)

If you have a gap at the top where the fender meets the door, a couple of thick washers will boost up the core support, hence boosting up the front of the fenders and narrow that gap.

The attached pic is a partial view of page 230. Not shown is the parts list, and the statement that there should be at least one shim. The shims are labeled "17".
Good luck!

[gotyorgoat]

Thanks Squid. You the man. I will discuss this with the shop owner. Do you know if these washers are visible with the fenders still in place?

[merlotgoat]

The shimming cured the problem nicely on my 67.

[squidtone]

gotyorgoat,
Not sure I know what you mean...no they are not really visible unless you crawl under the car and look up under there. But the shims do just sit on top of the frame horns and then comes the bushing, then the core support itself. The small rubber ring goes on top of the core support along with it's washer and nut. (I put the bolts going up through from the bottom...although the assembly manual indicates the bolt could go either way)

[gotyorgoat]

Yes, that was exactly my question. Looking up from underneath. Thanks for the help!

[SR-71]

I know this is an old post but checking to see if anyone has a picture of their original mounting bolt and what the length is? Looking at page 230 of the assembly manual. Section 10-220 to 11-254 it's item 14 which looks like part number 9782988 but I can't find that part number in the original parts book. I think it's a 7/16-14 X 3-1/2 but not sure. For what it's worth the shims are 9781851 .120 thick and 9781852 .180 thick.

[jd66]

I'm putting my front end on my 66 this Thursday, lots of help coming, as far as shims go my car originally had 3 each 3/16" washers on each side, setting a fender on the car without the inner fender it looks like I might have to add a little more shim, I just had the front end lined up and while it was at the shop put it on a frame machine to see if the frame was ok, the man who did it says I was with in the thickness of a dime to original specs, so I guess 3 shims that thick is ok, the bolt length I have the measurement I'll post it for you later, I do know I used a heavy washer on the bolt head facing up, made more sense to me, I'll take a picture of how mine looks and post it later. jd grim 66 gto now a 421.

[jd66]

This is what mine looks like and that's what it looked like when new, the bolt is a 7/16" times 3 1/2" long, I used a new crimp nut and grade 8 bolt. and a thick washer on the bottom, hope this answers all your questions. jd grim