[alanmay0]

so when i cut open the oil filter what exactly am I looking for. The engine has about 150 miles on it since rebuild. Thanks

[Murf]

Originally Posted by alanmay0

OK this picture does not show the use of the two rubber spacers/O rings or what ever. see attached picture

Is that a pic of your car? If not it doesn’t real pertain to anything here.

ETA you would be looking for metallic particles in the filter. Indicating some sort of engine issue.

Does it puke coolant when you pull over with the gauge pegged?

The more info you can give the better the advice will be.

Good luck!
Murg

[25stevem]

The picture in your post 20 is of a 69 and up timing cover with the two gray metal sleeves and the o-rings in the face of those sleeves.
The 64 thru 68 water pumps / timing covers do not use those.

[alanmay0]

No that is not my car that is a car on youtube that a guy is showing what can can cause the pontiac to overheat. I was just asking is those black rubber things are needed in the water pump. I have never used them, or knew they existed, until seeing that youtube video. The car does not puke water when I stop. I do take the temp reading with the laser gun and it is 245 plus degrees. I have not yet cut the oil filter open but was getting ready to but decided to get the temp reading of the center exhaust manifold when it hits 220 degrees as another on this site wanted to know. Well I started the engine and was letting it warm up. The temp at the thermostat housing was reading about 135 degrees so I was going to take the radiator cap off to see when the stat opened and if the water was flowing. well when I gently began lifting the radiator cap when the engine was only showing 135 degrees it nearly blew off with force in the radiator. So lots of anti freeze came bursting out but I was lucky enough to get the cap on before it all came out. Cant understand why the radiator would be filled with pressure or hot anti freeze when the thermostat had not yet opened. Any one have any ideals??
thanks again

[68WarDog]

What pulleys system are you running? Hopefully it's not one of those slow water 6" crank pulley, coupled that with a 8" water pump pulley.

[TedRamAirII]

Leave the cap off, run the engine and fill it with water, until about 1" below the cap. with the top at 135f I suppose there was NO WATER in the intake. The intake cant get hot, without hot water inside of it. As it warms up, the water should start flowing, when the thermostat opens.

[alanmay0]

it is a 8" water pully with a 7" crank pully

[Half-Inch Stud]

Originally Posted by alanmay0

it is a 8" water pully with a 7" crank pully

Not thee problem, but smaller water pump pulley could help.

[Cliff R]

So you don't know what pistons in it or the specs of the camshaft.

IF it was rebuilt at some point with those 8 valve relief POS pistons that are often .030-.050" in the holes at TDC, and a cam that's not degree'd correctly, that may be all of or a MAJOR part of the issues you are seeing.

1967 waterpump and pump speed (pulley diameters) systems aren't that great right to start with, which can also contribute to running hot.

I've ran into several 400's over the years of working on these cars that ran really hot. They would heat up very quickly, go right past 200 degrees and peg the gauge minutes later.

I cured one of them (1967) by retarding the cam 4 degrees AFTER doing everything possible in every other area to get it to run cool. This included a HUGE 4 row radiator, 7 blade HD clutch fan, later timing cover/pulley/waterpumt set-up, etc, etc. NONE of those moves cured it, helped superficially, but it still ran WAY too hot for my liking.

While the timing cover was off I noticed one of those POS 3 keyway roller timing chains, but didn't pay it much mind at the time. I went back into it, and discovered someone had advanced the cam 4 degrees. I put it back to zero (dot to dot) and from there on we had trouble getting the engine to heat up. It wouldn't go past 180 degrees no matter what you did or how you ran it.

Got involved with another 400 a few years later where someone had installed those 8 valve relief pistons in it. They were over .035" in the holes at TDC combined with a thick head gasket. Removed them, went to flat tops, zero decked the block, .039" head gaskets and that cured all the issues. Like the other 400 we had trouble getting it to heat up vs the gauge going right past 200 and headed for 250 degrees.......

[25stevem]

i Know you posted that you tested the cooling system for combustion gases, but at 135 and with the motor at a idle when you remove the cap it should not have pressure like that to release.
Like stated in post 26 you may have a air pocket up in the heads where no coolant is getting to.

The cure is to fill the Cooling system with the rad cap off as the motor warms .
Once the stat opens let the coolant rise until it just about over flows and then put the cap on.

[prostreet64]

Have you inspected the plugs? If you have one that is really 'clean' compared to the others then you probably have a head gasket leak and water is getting into that cylinder and exhaust gas is getting into the coolant. Had this happen on the Bird recently and had a hard time tracking it down because none of the classic symptoms of a head gasket leak were evident. May not be the issue but really easy to check out.

[alanmay0]

that is exactly what i have.

[alanmay0]

I cant find the post of the person who asked me to run the car to about 220 degrees and then read the temp of the center exhaust head. i did that and I placed the red temp dot on the 7 of the 670 on the head. the drivers side was 295 degrees and the pass side was 242 degrees.

[alanmay0]

I will check this out tomorrow when the engine is cold. thanks for the suggestion

[alanmay0]

will do this when the engine cools down again.. thanks

[alanmay0]

wish you were my neighbor. thanks

[alanmay0]

will cut oil filter open tomorrow. no it does not puke water

[alanmay0]

Even with the radiator cap off and the engine running it still climbs up to 250 just idling. does not take more that 10 minutes once thermostat opens.

[25stevem]

I would bet that the bank of the motor who’s center exh ports read 295 has the bad head gasket , but I would replace both gaskets along with the normal things like Checking the head and deck surface for straightness of .002 or less, , replace the head bolts and clean out all the head bolt holes so that a bolt can be threaded in with light finger force.

[alanmay0]

no it does not boil over and I have not notices bubble in the system when running it with the cap off. thanks