[Hammertime Mike]

Originally Posted by triathlonx13

What, no pictures of the mocked up motor and headers ??!!!

I got photos.

[Hammertime Mike]

Originally Posted by triathlonx13

What, no pictures of the mocked up motor and headers ??!!!

Actually that is the motor that I'll be running in the car, initially. Here's a couple more header photos.

[Transporter]

They look sweet Mike, tuck up there real nice. I guess my question is this, since you already had the body off, is the only reason that you didn't put the whole drive train in first and then drop the body over because of installing the cage?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Stan

[Hammertime Mike]

Originally Posted by Transporter

They look sweet Mike, tuck up there real nice. I guess my question is this, since you already had the body off, is the only reason that you didn't put the whole drive train in first and then drop the body over because of installing the cage?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Stan

No, actually the drivetrain that I initially planned on using in the Aero coupe was being used in my 65 for the 2012 season. Being that the G-body is a full framed car,the basic roll cage was pretty straight forward. Also being a rear wheel drive car, I didn't anticipate any floor clearance issues with the drivetrain. Being that I did box the frame, I do have to weld in tranny mount brackets and either modify an old crossmember or buy a crossmember kit. Hope that answers your question.

[Transporter]

Originally Posted by Hammertime Mike

No, actually the drivetrain that I initially planned on using in the Aero coupe was being used in my 65 for the 2012 season. Being that the G-body is a full framed car,the basic roll cage was pretty straight forward. Also being a rear wheel drive car, I didn't anticipate any floor clearance issues with the drivetrain. Being that I did box the frame, I do have to weld in tranny mount brackets and either modify an old crossmember or buy a crossmember kit. Hope that answers your question.

I understand, to be honest, I am STILL not sure whether I want to put a cage in this car or not. I WANT a cage, but I hate to lose the back seat, because of the 'long" wb on these little cars, this is one of the few cars that I have tubbed that you can still run a full size rear seat with no issues.

[triathlonx13]

Originally Posted by Hammertime Mike

I got photos.

Looking good - clearance seems real nice. Looks like you might need 90 degree AN fittings out of your oiling adapter do to the header pipe running cross ? Is it like my TA in that respect or can you run straight out and avoid the header?

Over all - great fit - look beafy too !

[Hammertime Mike]

Originally Posted by triathlonx13

Looking good - clearance seems real nice. Looks like you might need 90 degree AN fittings out of your oiling adapter do to the header pipe running cross ? Is it like my TA in that respect or can you run straight out and avoid the header?

Over all - great fit - look beafy too !

There you go looking ahead again! Now I wish you had asked that a few days earlier.I could have figured that one out. I now have a driver door that opens with the door handle and closes on the striker. Working on the pass side.

[Hammertime Mike]

Last week I was on the hunt for a replacement radiator support. The one in the aero coupe was all cut up and had a bunch of extra holes in it. I found one mid 80's GP in the boneyard. The rad. support appeared to be a fairly clean. As I started removing what I needed to pull it, I found rot under where the battery was. My original had no rot. I renegotiated with the boneyard guy and ended taking the support home. Here's a few pictures. The support with the latch mechanism is from the boneyard. The wife's aero coupe hood was chained to the rad. support, I just couldn't get myself to stay with that.

[Hammertime Mike]

I decided to separate the top of the boneyard radiator support and put it on the original support. I still have to lower the base of the radiator support to fit the aluminum radiator that I got. [thanks APD] Here's a few photos to show you what I did.

[Hammertime Mike]

I got the metal work done on the radiator support. I had to add length to fit the aluminum radiator as it was too tall. I also fixed the section that had been previously cut out.

[Hammertime Mike]

Here's the aluminum radiator set in the rad. support.

[twinturrbo406]

Originally Posted by Hammertime Mike

Here's the aluminum radiator set in the rad. support.

... i'm not 100%, but i think it might run a little cooler without that cardboard on there Mike ?? ...

[Hammertime Mike]

Originally Posted by twinturrbo406

... i'm not 100%, but i think it might run a little cooler without that cardboard on there Mike ?? ...

Bill, I used to have to do that to my diesel. When I lived in that section of the country where ten below zero was the normal this time of year. I don't miss that.

[Hammertime Mike]

Here's the radiator support with the welded areas cleaned up and primed.

[Hammertime Mike]

Radiator support is painted. Moving to the dash and wiring.

[Transporter]

Looks good Mike, keep em coming.

[Hammertime Mike]

Thanks Stan. Yesterday I stripped the dash down to its core, photos soon. I'm going with a different interior color. So the dash and steering column need to be sprayed. I've used a couple different brands such as dupli-color and SEM. I'm going to try a different brand. It's called "Color Bond". I was wondering if anyone tried this paint before?

[twinturrbo406]

Originally Posted by Hammertime Mike

Radiator support is painted. Moving to the dash and wiring.

... very nice, she's gettin' closer ...

[Hammertime Mike]

Here's the dash all broke down. I'd like to use the factory gauges. Not to confident that the tach will work and their kinda pricey to fix. I'll be adding gauges to the dash, plenty of area for that. The dash did clean up better than I thought it would. I used dish soap first then window cleaner. I'm going to be changing the dash color next.

[pontiacjeff]

What color are you dyeing the interior?