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Pontiac - Boost Turbo, supercharged, Nitrous, EFI & other Power Adders discussed here. |
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#1
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Boost and air/fuel
Hi guys
Would increasing boost (roots) by a couple of lbs make a diffrence to air/fuel ratio. Had car on chassis dyno all good 440hp at wheels uncorrected at 5lb boost so got room to play. Three good runs last sunday 10.75 10.74 10.78 at 124 60ft down from 1.8s to high 1.5s mickey thompson sportsman pros seem to work at 9-10lbs cheers
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#2
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Technically, no or depends.
What do you have for an induction system?
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
#3
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to be safe, you should jet it up if you are going to increase boost levels.
then lean it out afterwards.
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1973 ventura pump gas street car -NA-10.68@126.6mph/ N2O-9.97@136.6, 3645# 1968 procharged firebird 5.66@123mph 1/8mile-F-2(22#boost), CSU E-85 carb, 477 IA2, 315cfm Butler E-heads, and factory suspension, 3580#. 939RWHP@25#boost thanks to Butler Performance, CSU carbs, and All Pontiac. |
#4
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1) Buy a good air/fuel wide band ego sensor system.
2) Start rich, as was said, 11.5 and slowly move toward 12.2 You want the a/f to be a flat line at all rpm points under wot. Tom Vaught
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#5
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indeed on wideband
lm1 with XD gauge is quite nice
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Clay Marsh 1967 GTO convertible Twin Turbo 5spd project http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...d.php?t=618281 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ9KworCMRE |
#6
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Curious where is the best place for the a/f sensor ?
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#7
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best to have a heat sink or something...or bung extender
and put it 18" to two foot? past the turbos...so it doesn't overheat The closer you go to the turbo, better chance of an error or overheating the sensor.... But needs to be in front the end of the exhaust at least a foot maybe two (or you'll read some of the reversion, on occasion) And there's a whole discussion regarding the angle of the actual sensor, so it doesn't collect condensation
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Clay Marsh 1967 GTO convertible Twin Turbo 5spd project http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...d.php?t=618281 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ9KworCMRE |
#8
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I put mine at 9 o'clock (LH) and 3 o'clock (RH) about a foot past the elbow on the downpipes coming from my manifolds. You don't want them below this as condensation will shock the O2 sensors and ruin them quickly. 10 and 2 o'clock would be even better - somewhere in the top 180* of the pipe. Keep you wire run to the firewall in mind.
Wideband is a GREAT investment for peace of mind with your AFRs. You 'll want to wire your meter to the tach at a minium. Then, depending on your meter you can measure/map/monitor intake air temps, EGT, manifold air pressure, etc...(if desired) . I bought the LM2 from Innovate and it was the best $350 I've spent to date.
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1967 GTO Tyrol Blue/Blk Cordova 400, TKO-600, 8.2 Posi w/3.55 400 + .020, decked to .005 SD Performance 240+CFM 670 heads RARE HO/RA manifolds RARE 2.5" Exhaust (18" Magnaflows) SD "Stump Puller" HR cam (230/236, 112LSA, 107.5 ICL) PRW stainless 1.52 roller rockers Forged TRW slugs SCAT H-Beam forged rods Last edited by GTOGreg; 08-04-2009 at 11:55 AM. |
#9
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Quote:
was thinking of fitting some sort of data logger to get a/f, boost, rpm, any suggestions? thanks
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#10
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Check out this forum:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...isplay.php?f=3 They have good air fuel meters but what is even better a forum to discuss all parts of the system and the data logging. Unit can log several things and display on a laptop easily. Tom Vaught
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#11
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Thanks Tom exactly what i wanted
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#12
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Thats what I did on my roots blown boat motor. I ended up back where I started at jet wise. Must be OK-It hasn't melted down yet (50ish hours since the boost increase) I only have plug readings and an EGT to go by, no wideband 02 sensor.
Last edited by Mr Twister; 08-04-2009 at 06:52 PM. Reason: added |
#13
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So Mr Twister, what was the original Boost Level vs the increased Boost Level of your boat engine?
Boat Engines typically run cool so they can be leaner vs a car engine and Carbs typically have a pretty wide range of Air/Fuel ratio vs the speed load. Carbs can actually add more fuel with the same main jet size depending on signal to the jet. Tom Vaught
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#14
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I'd insure you found the optimum jet for the current drive % if you haven't already. I varied my OD % a good deal from street to strip driving - but the jet was setup for best performance with the greater OD in good air.
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#15
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