[goatcheese]

I'm doing the Jeep steering box conversion. I bought a pump for a '77 K-Series truck to get the control valve. It looks identical to mine. Do they look different at all? I'm just wondering if the rebuilt ones are different then the factory ones.
Thanks

[Bill H]

Originally Posted by goatcheese

I'm doing the Jeep steering box conversion. I bought a pump for a '77 K-Series truck to get the control valve. It looks identical to mine. Do they look different at all? I'm just wondering if the rebuilt ones are different then the factory ones.
Thanks

Sent you a PM today.
The parts look the same on the exterior but the big difference is that the internal relief spring inside the flow control valve itself from the K truck is set for 1400 PSI while an original GTO flow control relief is set at about 900 PSI.

[dracowizard]

Originally Posted by Bill H

Sent you a PM today.
The parts look the same on the exterior but the big difference is that the internal relief spring inside the flow control valve itself from the K truck is set for 1400 PSI while an original GTO flow control relief is set at about 900 PSI.

Don't wanna hi-jack the thread,but reading this thread has me curious about my own choice to use a quicker ratio box.I've aquired a box from a 97 jeep and knowing it's a faster ratio i'm curious if i need to choose a steering pump that'll better serve the quicker box.

[63gpman]

To take full advantage of the swap, you will want the higher pressure valve. check out this link and scroll down to this title.

POWER STEERING PUMP – PRESSURES AND FLOWS

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html

[goatcheese]

Thx for the help guys. I'm just hoping the remanufactured pumps for the K series trucks are actually getting the 1400 psi valve. The remanufactured pumps are built by cardone. I guess I'll know when I drive it?

[Bill H]

I'm sure that Cardone used the correct parts. According to Jim Shea, GM switched from the 900-950 PSI to the 1400 PSI in 1970, it will be fine.

[G-Code 72]

I am doing this swap and have gathered my parts and cannot figure out how the flow control valve is installed. I did not have to remove the itmes so I did not get a chance to see where it came from. I know its a simple install, I'm just not smart enough to figure it out. So what is the proper install procedure for the flow control valve?

[goatcheese]

Originally Posted by Bill H

I'm sure that Cardone used the correct parts. According to Jim Shea, GM switched from the 900-950 PSI to the 1400 PSI in 1970, it will be fine.

Thanks Bill!

[goatcheese]

Originally Posted by G-Code 72

I am doing this swap and have gathered my parts and cannot figure out how the flow control valve is installed. I did not have to remove the itmes so I did not get a chance to see where it came from. I know its a simple install, I'm just not smart enough to figure it out. So what is the proper install procedure for the flow control valve?

If you look on the links that are listed earlier in this thread you will see a diagram of the control valve/spring detail. You take out the high pressure line fitting from the back of your pump and it's behind it.

[dracowizard]

Originally Posted by 63gpman

To take full advantage of the swap, you will want the higher pressure valve. check out this link and scroll down to this title.

POWER STEERING PUMP – PRESSURES AND FLOWS

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html

Appreciate this info a lot.Very good to help me complete my setup for the results i want.I first read Jims info of which box to choose and failed to follow up on matching to a correct ps pump.Thanks

[Bill H]

Originally Posted by G-Code 72

I am doing this swap and have gathered my parts and cannot figure out how the flow control valve is installed. I did not have to remove the itmes so I did not get a chance to see where it came from. I know its a simple install, I'm just not smart enough to figure it out. So what is the proper install procedure for the flow control valve?

Install like this picture. Spring/flow valve small screen side goes into pump/o ring /fitting.
Also included the pdf. file with good information.

[72 G-Code]

Ok got. I figured it was simple. Thanks

[Squidward]

Just wanted to update on my Jeep box conversion. I hadn't had a lot of road time following the conversion, but I've had some drive time since then and wanted to give my feedback. Car is a 67 Firebird, so the 87 degree travel is utilized.

First, the conversion wasn't so bad. I bought a reman box, got the Dorman adapter rag joint, and got the Lee inserts. My pressure side insert got all cockeyed and jacked (thought it was straight), and had leakage issues. That was fixed by removing the insert, installing an oring to AN fitting, and getting a new hose made for flare fitting on pump side/AN on box side. I also replaced my original 67 pump pressure valve with one from a 78(?) pump. I have no issues in performance.

Here is where I have regrets: The steering is TOO responsive. The tiniest movement of the wheel steers the car. It's kinda like driving a car with a joystick or xbox controller. If I ever have to do it again, I will replace it with a steering box that is a compromise between the 12.7:1 Jeep box and the stock 22-ish:1 box. It gets a little annoying having to be constantly dialed in to every movement so that the car doesn't wander.

[AG]

Where is the flow control valve located?

['ol Pinion head]

Originally Posted by AG

Where is the flow control valve located?

back of the PS pump.

['ol Pinion head]

Squidward, thank you for posting your findings. From reading your thread, am somewhat frustrated as the Jeep GC boxes are fairly easy to find in good used shape & having metric threads the Lee Mfg inserts are also needed on nearly all of the alternative (WS6 boxes), so no big deal there. Also, have a decent supply of the adapter ragjoints, GM actually used them for part of a year. through the years, I've sold quite a few good '79-81 WS6 boxes to A-body guys even though we knew the turning radius would be changed. At least 2 of my remaining WS6 boxes will now be dropped of in Springfield, MO for rebuilding & changing the stops. Am far from into pro-touring type builds, but do appreciate responsive powersteering.

[Squidward]

I had to replace my stock box anyways. The box was shot, as was the pitman arm joint, and the pitman arm nut was stripped from what I guess was install with an impact wrench. I thought that the stock "crank it a million times lock to lock" ratio was lame, but didn't really understand exactly how this ratio would actually perform. It seemed like the hot ticket out there on the interweb from everything I read.

When I drive it I have to CONSTANTLY pay close attention to the wheel. Every bump in the road will cause steering feedback. It doesn't seem to take much to make the car wander. I'll be honest... when driving on the highway or in other straight forward low pressure environments, I might need to crack a can of soda with two hands. This requires intervention with my knee for a little bit, and the tiniest bit of motion can now send the car into the other lane.

I just wish I had chosen a more happy medium. Oh well, live & learn! 1st gen birds aren't handling demons anyways. Now if this was a 2nd gen, then maybe I'd be happier since those cars drive like they are on rails.

[63gpman]

There must be something wrong. I have driven a 65 Chevelle and a 68 GTO that had this exact change completed and they drove great. I have also owned 2 Cherokee's and 1 Grand Cherokee and neither the Jeeps or the old cars reacted anything like how your car is acting.

Just curious, how did the alignment turn out?
Wondering if it would be worth switching out the power steering pump? Any chance that the valving is not correct?

Just odd to hear this feedback as I have driven cars that had this swap and it was a very nice change.

[Squidward]

I would say it's more of a personal preference. It just requires more concentration to make sure things don't start to get away from me. It's like surfing the web using a mouse with a really high scroll speed.

Alignment was done by a shop. Setup is stock, no mods.

[amcmike]

Originally Posted by Squidward

I would say it's more of a personal preference. It just requires more concentration to make sure things don't start to get away from me. It's like surfing the web using a mouse with a really high scroll speed.

Alignment was done by a shop. Setup is stock, no mods.

Stock alignment is probably not helping.

Aim for
Caster: +3 to +4 degrees
Camber: -1/2 to -3/4 degrees
Toe: in 1/32 to 1/8"