Suspension TECH Including Brakes, Wheels and tires

          
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  #81  
Old 07-05-2013, 10:09 PM
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Hmm, that looks to be just the discharge fitting and NOT the flow control valve?....I would think you need to change the valve out also to up the pressure. Is that the correct pic? When I did mine I snagged all the items(5,6,24) in the pic from an 84ish fullsize buick that had the ps pump just lying there which made it real easy for me.


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1970 GTO 458 CID .040 over 4 Bolt 428 Block, Forged Eagle 455 Crank, 295 CFM SD KRE D-Ports, SD Old Faithful HR Cam + Comp HR Lifters, PPR Maxx-lite rods, Racetec pistons, PRW 1.65 SS Rockers, 900CFM Holley HP TBI, Performer RPM, Hooker Super Comps, 3" X-Pipe into 2.5" mufflers/tailpipes, 2.75 1st TH400, Continental 13" Converter, 8.5" 3.08 Posi.
Everything installed, fired up and tuning has begun!
  #82  
Old 07-06-2013, 12:12 AM
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That what I was thinking. On the packing list, it says Flow Control Valve SAE 2 3/4GPM. I'm having a tough time believing that's all I need. I thought Lee would have sent all the necessary items when I said I needed the Flow Control Valve.

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  #83  
Old 07-08-2013, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qball View Post
That what I was thinking. On the packing list, it says Flow Control Valve SAE 2 3/4GPM. I'm having a tough time believing that's all I need. I thought Lee would have sent all the necessary items when I said I needed the Flow Control Valve.
Any update on this? Did they send you the wrong part?

  #84  
Old 07-08-2013, 12:30 PM
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Any update on this? Did they send you the wrong part?

I put a call in to them, this morning. Waiting to hear back.

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  #85  
Old 07-09-2013, 05:54 PM
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as per the pic 428 posted you need parts 5,6,23 and 24. Part 6 (the control valve) has an internal spring in it which give you the need pressure.

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  #86  
Old 07-10-2013, 07:31 PM
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Thanks again, Bill. I spoke to Tom at Lee Power Steering. I told him what I was doing and what I received and he seemed to think that the discharge port would be sufficient and that I shouldn't need the inner valve and spring. He said that the existing PS pump would provide sufficient flow with the discharge port.

He gave me a series of tests to perform when everything is up and running to determine whether or not I will need the internal valve and spring.

I'm a bit skeptical, but for now I'll defer to his experience. As soon as I get this all done, I'll report back of my findings.

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  #87  
Old 07-10-2013, 07:36 PM
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Well I hope he is right, good luck!

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1970 GTO 458 CID .040 over 4 Bolt 428 Block, Forged Eagle 455 Crank, 295 CFM SD KRE D-Ports, SD Old Faithful HR Cam + Comp HR Lifters, PPR Maxx-lite rods, Racetec pistons, PRW 1.65 SS Rockers, 900CFM Holley HP TBI, Performer RPM, Hooker Super Comps, 3" X-Pipe into 2.5" mufflers/tailpipes, 2.75 1st TH400, Continental 13" Converter, 8.5" 3.08 Posi.
Everything installed, fired up and tuning has begun!
  #88  
Old 07-10-2013, 09:30 PM
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Well I hope he is right, good luck!
Me, too!!!!

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  #89  
Old 07-10-2013, 10:39 PM
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All I can add is that when I put the JGC box on my '67 I didn't do anything to the stock power steering pump and it worked and felt just fine to me.

  #90  
Old 07-11-2013, 08:59 AM
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Thanks, Abe! That's good to know.

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  #91  
Old 07-14-2013, 11:12 AM
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Tom is the expert and I'm sure the pump will work just fine, I'm just providing the directions as written by Jim Shea.

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  #92  
Old 07-31-2015, 05:32 AM
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Thought I'd add a little input about the conversion.

I did the JGC conversion back in late 2010/early 2011 on my 67 FB. It was too sensitive, and I didn't like it. Oh, well, gotta play with what I have.' I did the Lee inserts and 3/4" rag joint. I bought a "95 JGC steering box". I forget exactly how many turns lock to lock, something like 3 turns, but it was definitely the fast ratio.

I got used to it, but recently my input shaft started leaking. I needed to replace the lifetime warranty part. I thought about doing a different box and looked for a suitable application with less aggressive characteristics. That's when I realized that Autozone spec'd pretty much the same box for a bunch of cars. 82 non-SS Monte? Same part number.

Sure enough, when I turned in my old box for a warranty replacement, the new one (same part number as the old) was a little more than 4 turns, close to 17:1. That made me happy, but it just shows that getting a fast ratio box from Autozone is just rolling the dice.

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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?"
  #93  
Old 08-03-2015, 02:08 AM
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Ahhh... first drive today with the new 4 turn box. I like it sooooo much better. It now has a similar feel to my daily driver, which provides a bunch of familiarity and better driving.

So, in compiling my list so far of things you read on the internet that SOUND like a great idea but weren't...

JGC steering box conversion
Ford Taurus electric fan
Chili pepper based personal lubricant

But I still like my Scarebird front disc conversion!

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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?"
  #94  
Old 08-04-2015, 01:15 AM
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I am glad to hear that, thanks.

I take it the other half was not receptive to the chili-based lube?

  #95  
Old 08-04-2015, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Scarebird View Post
I am glad to hear that, thanks.

I take it the other half was not receptive to the chili-based lube?
Ha Ha! I was wondering when that would be noticed!

No, not good for any participant or spectator.

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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?"
  #96  
Old 08-07-2015, 12:00 PM
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Nice timing on bringing this thread back up. Im putting the suspension back together
on my 66 Ventura and was thinking about swapping to a quick ratio steering box.

Does this Jeep box coversion work on B bodies as well (meaning turn radius etc.)
or only A bodies ? If only A Bodies, is there a similar direct swap for B bodies ?

(been through this before on reading that you could use 2000 Blazer
rear disk brake setups on Pontiacs-- you can .. if its an A Body diff -
Bolt holes didnt line up on my B body rear diff)


John

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  #97  
Old 08-07-2015, 11:26 PM
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Hmmm... good question. I know that for my 67 FB, the jeep conversion was perfect because the 67 FB turn radius was 87 degrees, and that's the spec on the jeep stuff. There is a chart over on the Team Chevelle website that lists different cars and their radius on the box. I've never owned a B body, just a lot of F bodies, and an A body that is next on the list for fixing up. But from what I encountered, getting a parts store "generic" box doesn't guarantee either turn ratio, and might not guarantee how much of a sweep radius the pitman arm shaft is. I was ok with a reduced radius anyways because of wheel rub on my inner frame rai, so I didn't really check before bolt in - I knew it wouldn't be any greater than 87 degrees. Not sure how it would impact a bigger car that might NEED all the turn radius it can get.

www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html

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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?"
  #98  
Old 08-09-2015, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squidward View Post
Ahhh... first drive today with the new 4 turn box. I like it sooooo much better. It now has a similar feel to my daily driver, which provides a bunch of familiarity and better driving.

So, in compiling my list so far of things you read on the internet that SOUND like a great idea but weren't...

JGC steering box conversion
Ford Taurus electric fan
Chili pepper based personal lubricant

But I still like my Scarebird front disc conversion!
Glad to hear you found something you like and works for you. I still have the jeep box in my GTO and love it. The cardone box I got previous to that diminished my turn radius, maybe I installed it wrong, or not? I still have the Cardone steering gear box with about 200 miles on it with rag joint. Free to anyone who wants to pick it up or is in the SF Bay area. I think shipping something that heavy would cost to much??

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  #99  
Old 08-09-2015, 07:47 PM
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I think the key is to get a GC box from a salvage yard right out of a Jeep. As some have pointed out, buying a new/reman gear box is questionable as to what you will actually end up with.

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  #100  
Old 09-11-2015, 12:28 AM
aldbeir aldbeir is offline
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today I installed a 97 jeep GC steering gear in my 66 gto.

the hardest part was getting the pitman arm off the jeep box. it was tight I broke 2 half inch extensions then went to 3/4 inch with a long cheater pipe. the pitman arm puller wouldn't get it I finally had the take a die grinder cut slots on 2 sides and use a chisel to stretch it then it finally came off. I got a seal kit at napa and installed the pitman seal and input shaft seal.

when I got it back together there wasn't any over center resistance. I didn't notice this before I took the pitman shaft out. on the jeep box I had to take out the end plug to change the input shaft seal I tightened that as per directions I found on line. tighten then back off 1/2 inch. I didn't have an inch lbs torque wrench couldn't get hold of the guy I knew who might have one.

I made a small torque wrench out of a piece of square stock and two welding rods the scale was a tin can lid marked in 1/8 inch marks. I j/b welded a broken socket into a piece of 3/4 inch copper tube slotted the other end and hose clamped it to the steering gear. I checked the torque against another saginaw box I had that hadn't been dismantled. I set the over center torque as close as I could to the other box.

after all the trouble with the pitman arm on the jeep box I was kind of leary of taking the pitman arm off the GTO as it has been on much longer but it came off easy. I had removed the sway bar for better access. the box went in good getting the pressure hose in the pump was tricky. I had the pump pressure fitting out of a later car with o ring ends. not much clearance between the pump and the block. I figured that was easier than removing the pump. filled it with fluid and test drove it seems good more responsive and the turn signal cancels ok.

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