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#1
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Grokk's Project
Got the starter on to do a compression test while the motor is on the stand, and to find out the starter is bad:/. Looking through yellowbook.com found one place in town that rebuilds Starters and Alternators, The guy said he has rebuilt a few before back in the day. $85.00. Plus I had to buy Compression tester adaptor because the kit I bought the threads were to short.
Last edited by Grokk; 01-20-2016 at 06:27 PM. |
#2
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Option 2 for starter;
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...-3-8l-4bl-sohc http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,4152
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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did, in his sleep. Not screaming like the passengers in his car. |
#3
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yeah, I went to O'reillys , there's didn't have the bolt whole for the bracket, I figured everyone else probably the same, and didn't want to take the chance it not fitting into the bellhousing. I guess keep it as much stock as I can. If the compression check is ok, next is the Distributor.
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#4
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You could just drill/tap a bolt hole or swap the case from yours and still be ahead a few $$
I did similar when starters were nonexistent a few years back. I just swapped the nose onto over the counter V8 starters so I could use them on several ohc engines I had built, However I didn't drill the brace holes on those. JM2C
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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did, in his sleep. Not screaming like the passengers in his car. |
#5
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Got a call about my starter, He said the housing is cracked, So going to look for someone to wield it up, be good to go, some certain type of wield I never heard of.
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#6
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I put a Buick 455 starter motor on a OHC nose cone for mine. Cranks fantastically.
__________________
__________________________________________ "How I learned to stop worrying and love the OHC Pontiac L6" The Silver Buick- '77 Skylark coupe w/455, SPX, MegaSquirt 3 & TKO-600 (Drag Week 2011, 2012 & 2015!) 1969 Firebird with a turbo'd Pontiac L6 controlled by a MegaSquirt 3 and backed with a microsquirt controlled 4L60e and 4.56 gears! (Drag Week 2018!) |
#7
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Not the Housing but nose cone was cracked, my bad.
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#8
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The NOSE is Aluminum.
At the least you can always get one of the new rebuilt offerings to use if needed. It was less then 5 years back when there seemed there were NO cores/rebuilt units avail;
__________________
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did, in his sleep. Not screaming like the passengers in his car. |
#9
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People work magic with TIG welding aluminum these days, even dirty aluminum. Just have to make sure the mounting surface is flat again depending where it cracked.
__________________
__________________________________________ "How I learned to stop worrying and love the OHC Pontiac L6" The Silver Buick- '77 Skylark coupe w/455, SPX, MegaSquirt 3 & TKO-600 (Drag Week 2011, 2012 & 2015!) 1969 Firebird with a turbo'd Pontiac L6 controlled by a MegaSquirt 3 and backed with a microsquirt controlled 4L60e and 4.56 gears! (Drag Week 2018!) |
#10
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Got the starter back.
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#11
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I went to a compression test, the motor would spin not like suppose to and would struggle on one spot, I took all the plugs out it moved a lot better except at one spot it would struggle, then move freely again. here is pic of the plugs right to left.
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#12
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With the plugs out I'd try and turn the engine with a breaker bar and see how bad that one spot is. Could be rod bearing or cam lobe, but is likely some disassembly is going to be required.
__________________
__________________________________________ "How I learned to stop worrying and love the OHC Pontiac L6" The Silver Buick- '77 Skylark coupe w/455, SPX, MegaSquirt 3 & TKO-600 (Drag Week 2011, 2012 & 2015!) 1969 Firebird with a turbo'd Pontiac L6 controlled by a MegaSquirt 3 and backed with a microsquirt controlled 4L60e and 4.56 gears! (Drag Week 2018!) |
#13
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I took the oil pan off, everything looks good no metal shavings. I Plastigauged the Rod bearings all were .002
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#14
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Bearing 6
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#15
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Good news on the bottom end and bearings. Time to check the cam. You could probably remove the timing belt and see if the engine spins more uniformly (spark plugs removed) to help determine if the binding is the cam/accessory drive or the bottom end. There could be a rusty piston wall now that I think about it.
Both the engines I bought were "running good" but both had really trashed cams. If the bottom end looks good, it could be a cam swap away from a running good. "Burned rubber and ran strong" Also had spark plugs that stuck a 1/2" into the chamber that were black as coal. "Ran great when pulled a few years ago" The follower rubbed the keepers and retainer on the left valve.
__________________
__________________________________________ "How I learned to stop worrying and love the OHC Pontiac L6" The Silver Buick- '77 Skylark coupe w/455, SPX, MegaSquirt 3 & TKO-600 (Drag Week 2011, 2012 & 2015!) 1969 Firebird with a turbo'd Pontiac L6 controlled by a MegaSquirt 3 and backed with a microsquirt controlled 4L60e and 4.56 gears! (Drag Week 2018!) |
#16
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I checked from what I could of the cylinder walls with a flashlight I didn't see any rust.
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#17
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I'm going to put the oil pan back on, my book says 12 ft lbs for the torque on the bolts but doesn't mention anything about using RTV sealant. Any thoughts?
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#18
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My luck is all over the map, but I do always use sealant.
__________________
__________________________________________ "How I learned to stop worrying and love the OHC Pontiac L6" The Silver Buick- '77 Skylark coupe w/455, SPX, MegaSquirt 3 & TKO-600 (Drag Week 2011, 2012 & 2015!) 1969 Firebird with a turbo'd Pontiac L6 controlled by a MegaSquirt 3 and backed with a microsquirt controlled 4L60e and 4.56 gears! (Drag Week 2018!) |
#19
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I took the Belt cover and went align the timing marks I have the HB at TDC. Looks like the Distributor drive is off. but it does Have a GM Original belt.
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#20
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I got the Cam tower off, I don't really see anything wrong except for crap in the water jacket. I wonder if it could be a sticky piston ring?
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