[kyle_blake]

Hi there

Looking to run points only as a trigger, no condenser on my 69 gto.

Curious for those who have hooked these up before, does the small red wire just go to fuse box 12V switched and remove or leave the stock points resistor wire going to the + coil?

I attached the manual below, it says box wants 12V but then says it's OK to just take the points wire resistor wire and power the Crane box with it? Which we all know is less than 12V?? I must be reading it wrong where it splices in.

Thoughts? I figure run red wire to 12V switched on spade on fuse box and remove resistor wire and wrap up tucked away around the brake booster.

This way the box gets 12V and the coil gets it's voltage from the crane box ( non trigger wires ) , it does mention later on in manual it will run down to 5 V.

White wire to points distributor which is black. connect it
green wire to stock tachometer?

[Dragncar]

Hook it up to 12V switched. It might work either way but the full 12V would make me feel better even it its only turning the box on.
Those are nice box,s. I have one as a backup to my MSD6AL2.
I run a condenser with my setup.
You will be happy with it. Best set up short of a crank trigger IMO.

[kyle_blake]

Thanks dragncar,
Sure hoping it is a nice step up. Was given to me!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ApBu9BEMBfQ

That video for 6al troubleshooting (has to be same deal as crane ) has the guy at the 1:39 min mark say "in most situations" you can just run the resistor wire right to the red wire. But you have to check for voltage in run and and crank position.

The 12V purple wire that comes up from starter to the ignition switch sends cranking voltage to the coil during crank via the resistor wire so that meets his requirement and then resistor wire is obviously in the run positions works with the lower voltage +7V I think? So i'd say either way should work.

Always running low on switched 12V spade's i tell you off the fuse box!

thanks again!

[Schurkey]

You're not powering the Crane box with the ballast resistor wire. That wire does nothing but turn the box on and off. Main power for the box is going to come from the heavy red wire going to the battery.

Kinda surprised that you can remove the ignition condenser; but there it is right in the instructions. I learn something new every day.

[Formulas]

Probably why the condenser can be removed is the points dont see the same load as in original design they are not switching a coil anymore but instead low load micro circuitry in HI-6

They are just being used to triger a event Like the pick up coil in the HEI just telling some other circuit hey it's time to do your job not neccesarily providing direct power to create secondary voltage

It's like a promotion from working at a workbench to management you no longer make it happen you tell it when to happen LoL

[steve25]

The points when used that way are just switching open and closed a every low current trigger signal, that’s all, but it does still help that they are not pitted and that there Spring is capable of the rpm the motor will spin to.

[steve25]

The points when used that way are just switching open and closed a every low current trigger signal, that’s all, but it does still help that they are not pitted and that there Spring is capable of the rpm the motor will spin to.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by kyle_blake

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ApBu9BEMBfQ

That video for 6al troubleshooting (has to be same deal as crane ) has the guy at the 1:39 min mark say "in most situations" you can just run the resistor wire right to the red wire. But you have to check for voltage in run and and crank position.

The 12V purple wire that comes up from starter to the ignition switch sends cranking voltage to the coil during crank via the resistor wire so that meets his requirement and then resistor wire is obviously in the run positions works with the lower voltage +7V I think? So i'd say either way should work.

Always running low on switched 12V spade's i tell you off the fuse box!

Kyle,

Your 69 GTO should have a single wire, under the hood, going out to coil (+) terminal.
IGN-1 (run/resistance) and IGN-2 (crank/12 Volts) both come from the ignition switch. They come together at the bulkhead/firewall connector under the dash, and then a single wire under the hood. That wire is fine for turning your box OFF & ON. Key in RUN position, that wire will have 12 volts with no load on it. The ON/OFF parts in the box takes very little power to work. So any voltage drop through the resistance wire (under the dash) will be minimal.

The purple wire to the starter solenoid is what engages the starter. Makes it come on and run. Some cars, not yours, use solenoid 'R' terminal for IGN-2. The 'R' terminal is hot when the solenoid is engaged. Cars that did use it had a yellow wire from 'R' going up to coil (+).

FWIW

Point rubbing blocks wear out all the same. So use a good felt lube wick and the rubbing block will last longer. Lead wire to the points can also wear out from breaker plate movement caused by the vaccum advance. Same goes for breaker plate ground strap. So if you end up with a no spark condition do not rule out a distributor problem.

just because
Clay

[kyle_blake]

Hi

Yes i have the single wire, black with a stripe that goes to the + of coil. I will adapt an ending to go to the red wire for the box. totally makes sense power comes from large power wire. Didn't realize i could actually route huge positive wire to the starter instead of all the way to battery. there is no way those blk and red would route all that way without extending them. I plan on running it inside my cabin.

I have to install the old points back into my distributor, i had removed it for the crane xr-1 fiasco , shall I just gap it to .19 thou? I will make a new wire off distributor just to be safe.

Gonna be exciting getting this going! thanks!

[kyle_blake]

Ok installed the points back in. Set the points to high spot on lobe and made it .020 thou.

the ground wire is no longer needed I assume but can leave there for good measure?

[Schurkey]

I'd expect the ground wire to be needed, otherwise the distributor bushings are going to be the ground path. If that wire is in as poor of a condition as it appears, you might consider replacing it.

[kyle_blake]

Ok will replace both thanks. thanks