[GoatDr]

Ok, so I want to have both heads have outlets on the rear. Connect them with a "T" and then run it to where? Would it go to the smaller hose connector on the timing cover?

[Herb Hagan]

To to the water crossover on the intake manifold.

[GoatDr]

Cool setup. Thanks for the pic.

[Bud Lyons]

Herb's a showoff!

[60man]

Yeah Bud. But he's good at it.

[Pontiac signman]

Guys,

I have a question...I bought a built engine that has both side capped off...no heater niples, he wasn't running a heater core. Is this going to be problematic? I don't need to run a core now, but want to make sure the coolant is flowing correctly.

It just hit me looking at Herb's post. Will the water get where it needs to go?

Thanks

[Doug Christie]

I was skeptical of this mod and whether or not the coolant would flow from the back of the head to the crossover or just follow the same route through the head. I put a clear plastic hose from the back to the crossover and watched as I reved the engine up and down. To my surprise it did flow! So I'm doing this mod myself this year.

[Pontiac signman]

Doug,

Actually what I'm questioning is, will the engine flow correctly with both sides capped off? There are no niples now or anything connecting the heads, except the inside cooling passages in block, and am wondering if this is problematic.

I may do the pictured setup at a later date, but first am wondering about above before putting on road?

Thanks

[Doug Christie]

Having both heads blocked off would be the same as having the one head plumbed into the heater core with the heater valve closed off. So it doesn't matter. On another note, I'm also going to block off the coolant bypass in the top of the pump and put bypass holes in the thermosat so it's not sucking hot water directly into the pump.

[Herb Hagan]

Signman,
You will be OK. The coolant will already be heated when getting to the back cylinders, so they will run a little warmer. The purpose of the mod is to increase flow (cooling capability) and purge any trapped air (hot spots) in this area.
Doug,
I plan on plugging the bypass as well, I run an electric pump with restrictor plate (no T-Stat).
Bud,
I've got something to show you big boy

Herb

[Pontiac signman]

Goatnad,

Thanks for the info! I would like to do your style cooling setup at a later date.

Do you recomend cutting the water crossover off, or just for ease of changing manifolds? Since my Lemans will be "real hard street/strip" use, cutting the crossover may be the best idea, since I would like to see which intake is best suited for my current driving? I just hate cutting up all those intakes, but as usual, I hord most of my stuff anyway, and will aid in the "quest for more power"!

Thanks

[Herb Hagan]

Signman,
I cut the water crossover mainly for port alignment, but this also allows for easier intake/carb changes for experimentation. I do recommend cutting it either way.
One thing to consider is are you going to use a stock or aftermarket valley pan? Stock valley pan does not leave a lot of room for plumbing, especially if you do it w/tubing, hose probably won't matter.
Head adapter plugs are available from Don Benner (Nastiac) 410.771.8800 benner.empire@verizon.net

Herb

[Skip Fix]

Those are sure some pretty hard lines! If I tried them they would like you hit them with the ugly stick , ALOT.

[Bud Lyons]

Herb, Thats the best offer I've had in awhile.

Did you just drill and tap the bottom of the cross over or did do something special to it?

[Herb Hagan]

Drilled and tapped after measuring for enough clearance between the 90 degree fittings. Had to come out the bottom due of the crossover due to Torker2 runner clearances, but if running a Victor you probably can come out the back of the crossover due to the higher runners and plenum floor.

Herb

[Ray Cox]

Nice Job Herb!

["Guy]

This is how plumped mine....simple two 5/8"inlets and 3/4 outlet tee between the two nipples, back of the heads...3/4" from the tee to the crossover. plug welded the water pump outlet to the heater core pipe hookup. I think it looks a little more stock looking...thats the look I'm going for.

[Skip Fix]

Guy what kind of air cleaner base is that?

[Herb Hagan]

Skip,
That looks like a 68 ram air base, can't tell if it's steel or fiberglass repo though.

Herb

["Guy]

Skip, One of my biggest concerns was using a RPM intake with my engine build. But also I wanted the stock ram air set-up for '68....and close the hood without making the foam base to hodd plate flatter than thinnest pancake. The fix was to channel the steel...yes steel stock ram base by an 1-1/4" inside, behind the air cleaner. IT WORKED PERFECT!!! I can run a 4" high K&N air filter I still have an 1-1/2 clearance with the hood closed the foam seal just touches the hood plate....which now opens the door to a phenolic spacer up to an inch in height. I don't know if I'll need the spacer with Cliff Ruggles 850cfm Qjet on the 406 vs. the current 750cfm Qjet. I have some tuning to do....can't wait to have doing that again! My car will be done for sure in the next couple months....sweet!
one other thing....you have to fab or modify the throttle cable bracket to clear the base coming down lower on the intake. I had to trim the throttle bracket posts and I put a 90 deg bend in the stock 68 throttle bracket...whew.
Also look at the post Jim Hand did with the pictures of his air box set up....only thing I would suggest Jim do is get the air cleaner top further away from the carb top than it is and run a 4" high air cleaner element...
Guy