[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

Just make sure it’s done right and can be certified by NHRA. A cage is no good if it’s not safe!
I’ve seen too many so called bars and cages on so called street cars that wouldn’t be safe on a go cart. GTO George

THIS TIMES 1000! Pay whatever it takes to have a EXPERT race chassis guy install the bars for you. Then the car will be strong, you will be safe, and it will not flex under "spirited driving".

Doing something one small step at a time just gives you a whole bunch of different "opinions/workmanship" on what to do with your car.

Pay ONE GUY (who knows what he is doing) to do it right.

People like Jerry Bickel get mentioned a lot but there are a lot of GOOD
'other chassis builders' like Andy McCoy, in Washington, Mo, Larry Jeffers, House Springs ,Mo, Jerry Haas, Fenton, Mo, & Tim McAmis, Hawk Point, Mo. in any given area.

Lots of Missouri guys race and the GOOD Chassis guys are well known in any given area of the USA.

Tom V.

PS you may never race at a NHRA Track but there are other Racing Organizations that require given Chassis
requirements. Circle Track racing being one of them. SCCA being another.

[LM93]

I'm up near Seattle and there are a bunch of speed shops that advertise being the local top choice for race car essentials. Most of them are more focused on imports though. A lot of them claim on their websites that they'll meet SCCA or whatever's rules but they don't provide any way they'll guarantee what they make. Is there anyone in the area that you'd recommend?

[GTOGEORGE]

A cage or bar isn’t that big of a deal BUT make sure that the tubes are the right thickness (per NHRA), just check the rule book out.


GTO George

[HWYSTR455]

I've had 600-ish engines in my 2nd gen with just frame connectors (weld in) and a 4 point roll bar, no issues over more miles than most would believe. You can do a 6 point with low entry/exit front bars too if you feel the need.

You can have the hybrid or 12 bolt type ends put on a 9", and just to say, there are a number of GM type kits for disc brakes on a 9" with the big bearing ends.

A 12-bolt or an S60 would be my first recommendation, there's some issues going to a bigger axle tube and the leaf plates, as well as exhaust over the bigger tubes. You have to drill out the leaf bracket too for the 1/2" U bolts.

9" rears have an offset pinion as well, keep that in mind, You can have the pinion 'centered' when housing is built, but that can add to exhaust headaches.

You don't need to brace a new 9" housing until you get to bigger HP levels, most who do the housings already use thicker steel for the tubes, and use the wider center section ends.

If you're having it made, might as well narrow it a 1/2" on each side for disc offset. As well as get an axle end that has more brake options. They can brace the spring perches too.

.

[ScottK.]

Put the whole calvert racing set up under the rear.Go out to the salvage yard and pull a Ford Explore 8.8 and a spare long side axle.Cut a long side tube off another 8.8 these things are laying around everywhere.Cut the short side on your 8.8 and weld on the extra tube so you will be running 2 long axles.You get disc brakes for free as well I got 250 in the whole set up.

[LM93]

Can't caltrac setups cause issues in hard cornering?