#41  
Old 11-07-2021, 09:14 AM
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ZnbOlds455 ZnbOlds455 is offline
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I went with the 40 mil Kilmat plus a layer of Dynamat's Dynaliner for thermal insulation.
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  #42  
Old 11-07-2021, 03:35 PM
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I will try to explain what happens.
Water /rain / car wash/etc Enters the wiper transmission vent area of the cowl.
Water then runs "over the edge' of the inner cowl ( or air horn ) area.
The run off point or "Drip edge" is Directly above the plastic vent piece.
The drip area is INTERIOR to the big "Flange" that's on it. This makes sure if you open the vent and its raining, that water doesn't come through the vent.
So the water will head towards the inner air horn at the point where the vent seals to the car.
The fit of the vent is NOT at all great and requires THICK amounts of the gray 3m Caulking, or water can get by and slip down the inside of the air horn, which is inside the car, and on to the floor.
This "shouldn't" happen on new cars as they were tested for leaks before the carpet was installed.
I repaired Plenty under warranty for leaking in this area and have had 2 of my own cars leak AFTER I rebuilt the cars.
The other place water cones in and looks similar is the Inner metal door seal channel.
At the top front of the roof where the A pillar hooks to the roof there MUST be a big amount of caulk. A roof gutter chrome will make the problem worse if it leaks at all.
The caulk here fills the big gap left when the gutter seal stainless is installed to the top of the A pillar.
I spent many hours inside cars as a teen watching where water leaks were coming from.
At the dealer we even used food coloring in some cases to spot the water faster.
Water Leaks INSIDE the car were probably The most irritating problems customers had.
The Fisher body "Flush and Dry" system was developed in the early 60's and was used in Unibody Chevy II's and full frame cars, as well as subframe cars for decades.
my '68 GTO had a factory leak in the side cowl vents.
"Flush and Dry" was taught at GM school on interiors , SUSPENSION and was THE most discussed system there relating to customer comfort and recall work.
The System works by allowing water to run down the inner cowl or air horn, and INTO the ROCKER PANEL The water then flowed DOWNHILL to the rear of the rocker where there is a rubber 1 way flap.
The water exited UNDER PRESSURE and DRIED out the whole system, when car was driven.
The pressure was based on the pressure at the base of the Windshield. ( Windscreen for those in UK) . This pressure is about 10-15 lbs at 60 mph ( roughly)
This same pressure was used on 60's Camaro Z-28 with cowl plenum air cleaners, and Trans Am with a working shaker scoop.
This system is only 1 of two reasons that ALL GM cars were set to be 1/2 to 1.5 INCHES LOWER in the rear, and is why so many ROT at the base of the fender ( cars jacked up in back)
The other reason is weight transfer and handling.
...Rant off... hope someone actually reads this.
LOOK at where the caulk WAS .... the sticky back you put on needs to GO away. IF water gets inside it from up top, AND IT WILL, it will have an easy trip inside the car at one of your "slice points"
This job, you Never want to do twice..
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Last edited by Formulabruce; 11-07-2021 at 03:48 PM.
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  #43  
Old 11-07-2021, 03:41 PM
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Hey, I read it, very informative thank you.

I was wondering why I saw so much sealant up at the top corner of the A pillar.

I'm going to pull my vent back out and do what I can to make sure it isn't a problem. Maybe even pour some water in there while I can still get at everything.

Thanks again.

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  #44  
Old 11-07-2021, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Here is a photo of the process so far ... sorry it's kind of busy, got a lot going on in there right now.

Probably not the right way, but I sit in there with a sheetrock knife, some scissors and a heat gun and cut various smallish pieces to fit and roll them on. I can tell that the first hot summer day this stuff is going to be on there so good I'd have to scrape it off with a razor blade.

At the BOTTOM of the rear window area inside the panel there is a DRAIN to the Rocker panel. These are often Clogged from the factory with tar used on the inner wheel house. This Drain MUST be completely CLEAR to keep moisture out of that bottom of the quarter and out of the rear floor area.
This drain goes into the Fisher Body "Flush and Dry" system I mentioned earlier.

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  #45  
Old 11-07-2021, 04:22 PM
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OK guys I'm ready to move on to the Dry portion of our test ...

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  #46  
Old 11-08-2021, 03:40 AM
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I'll check that area tonight, I vacuumed the bottom of that cavity well but I didn't reach in and feel around for any openings.

When I was prepping the body for primer I got a new respect for what was going on with all the various passages. I always assumed it was just done for stronger stampings or something, but obviously there is a method to their madness.

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  #47  
Old 11-08-2021, 04:52 AM
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BTW ... for those of you have have installed a sound deadener, and then insulation like Thermozite .. is there any problem getting the carpet to fit with the added thickness? I just ordered carpet ... got it with the standard jute backing, I was afraid with the "mass" backing that I'd have too much thickness stacked up on the floor.

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