#1  
Old 10-31-2021, 09:42 AM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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Default Reproduction full door shell

Anyone have experience using the full reproduction firebird doors?

Mine is 70-73 but these are made to fit 74-81 I believe? needing to know if they are a poor fit etc?

Thank you

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Old 10-31-2021, 10:28 AM
78w72 78w72 is offline
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cant comment on fitment, but the doors are the same fitment for all 70-81 cars. the later ones have the big inner crash bar brace.

as with anything aftermarket, some adjustment may be needed vs original GM parts.

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Old 11-01-2021, 08:53 AM
TAKerry TAKerry is offline
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I have a pair of brand new doors (repro) on my shelf. I have not fit them to a car but they look really nice. I could make you a heck of a deal but the shipping may be a bit much. PM if youre interested.

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Old 11-01-2021, 09:08 AM
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lfdsteve lfdsteve is offline
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Inner door latch release, is in a different location is it not? When I rebuilt my 71, I had a pair of rust free originals that looked awesome right up until I went to fit the door cards. Cut and weld time
That said, not sure of exactly the year.

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Old 11-02-2021, 04:40 PM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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Default $

I'm going to get thru the rebuild and make my 2nd time reskinned original doors work.

just wanted to know if anyone has actually fitted a pair of these reproduction doors should I fail again and try repop shells out of frustration.

I know the interior of the new repop shells would have to be cut and welded for my interior panels and door latch to work.

I checked, the price gouging on everything is in full tilt, these repop shells were $677 ea, now they are priced at $924 ea, ridiculous! that alone motivates me to do a good job on my originals.

  #6  
Old 11-09-2021, 05:34 PM
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Formulabruce Formulabruce is offline
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Glue the door skin on your shell. May need help with a dolly, but you'll get a nice rust free job. Rust free as in future. The glue removes all air and has rust inhibitors.

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Old 11-10-2021, 04:07 PM
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nUcLeArEnVoY nUcLeArEnVoY is offline
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I will, by default, count on any aftermarket parts requiring some fanagling to fit right. That'll probably be the case with these, too. I think what most folks do is retain the original door shell and just replace the outer skin since that's usually what rusts through. The main problem area is usually the edge that runs along the bottom of the door where the outer skin is folded around the shell to hold it in place. I don't think the factory glued or welded the folded edge to the shell to seal it, and after the decades, the dirt and moisture that collects between the folded edge and shell flange leads to rusting.

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Last edited by nUcLeArEnVoY; 11-10-2021 at 04:13 PM.
  #8  
Old 11-10-2021, 05:28 PM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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yup

the original door skin (mine anyway) are tack welded along the top to the inner structure and then in the center front and center rear. the rest is just the fold over.

firebird owners, if you haven't ever looked down at that bottom of the door with your door panel off and paid attention to the cringe worthy built in water trap you should. I went bonkers letting por15 run down there and then filled the trough so water can't just stand there.

one thing I've been blown away about during restoration is all the built in rust traps. unreal. the factory was definitely not thinking in terms of longevity.

I intend to grudgingly use the clear stick on urethane cut as needed all along the bottom of mine as well as on the fender flares. I remember how the paint was nicked thru all along the bottom of my 80 trans am. no other way to prevent that except urethane sheeting.

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Old 11-10-2021, 05:46 PM
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nUcLeArEnVoY nUcLeArEnVoY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JUDGE3 View Post
yup

the original door skin (mine anyway) are tack welded along the top to the inner structure and then in the center front and center rear. the rest is just the fold over.

firebird owners, if you haven't ever looked down at that bottom of the door with your door panel off and paid attention to the cringe worthy built in water trap you should. I went bonkers letting por15 run down there and then filled the trough so water can't just stand there.

one thing I've been blown away about during restoration is all the built in rust traps. unreal. the factory was definitely not thinking in terms of longevity.

I intend to grudgingly use the clear stick on urethane cut as needed all along the bottom of mine as well as on the fender flares. I remember how the paint was nicked thru all along the bottom of my 80 trans am. no other way to prevent that except urethane sheeting.
Sounds like a good idea.

Mine has just surface rust in that area that we're both taking about, so further down the line I'll wirewheel the bejeezus out of it and nuke it with some rust-preventative coating. I just need something to stop it in its tracks since years down the road, I want to give my car a show quality paintjob down to bare metal (preferably acid-dip to REALLY reveal what is or is not wrong).

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