#21  
Old 11-25-2021, 09:18 PM
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Whatever you do, don't use it................LOL

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  #22  
Old 11-26-2021, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64speed View Post
I actually do have a two post lift just for the record LOL
That'll make life much easier.

I do my engine/trans installs on the 2 post, with an engine tilter and it's a one man operation. I use the Mac Tool tilter for more room and easier operation. Those big bulky tilters with chains can be rather cumbersome.

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Old 11-26-2021, 04:44 PM
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I have a shop here and one at my father in laws shop. My lift is in his cause of the higher ceiling. Honestly I may be dense but I can’t see how the lift would help??????

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Old 11-26-2021, 05:22 PM
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Well, I probably should let Larry answer but in the meantime .

You can lift the car easier than with a Jack. You can go higher than a floor Jack easily can & it would be much easier to adjust the height as needed. No messing with Jack stands, blocks etc. I sure wish I had one. I also agree the levelers that mount close to the engine not with the longish chains would be really nice . I just have the HarborFreight one with the chains it’s OK. I took the crank handle off & double nutted the thread rod so I could use a battery operated drill.

Have fun!
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  #25  
Old 11-26-2021, 05:24 PM
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64speed,
1) You put the engine and trans together and tilt the engine just enough upward until the engine and trans will go over the fender.

2) Now it is inside the the body and you raise the body a foot on the two post lift and raise the engine and trans an additional 1 foot and try to stick the assembly into the firewall hole.

3) If the firewall hole has the engine centered and the end of the trans clears the floor, you just take a floor jack and raise the back of the trans and install the engine on its mounts.

4) If the trans hits the floor you raise the 2 post lift an additional 6 inches and try it again.

At some point the engine and trans will be in the correct location to put the trans crossmember in the car.

SIMPLE

Tom V.

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  #26  
Old 11-26-2021, 06:54 PM
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How I do it by myself in my garage. No lift necessary.

The Mac’s Pivot Plate makes it easy

Both the engine and trans were being replaced.

I simply rolled the car backwards little by little as I extracted the engine and trans rather than pull the hoist rearward. Much easier to move the car carefully little by little to adjust for the clearance you need rather than to try to roll the hoist in any kind of precise manner with the weight of an engine and transmission hanging from it.

One thing you must be sure of is that you have enough clearance between the bottom of the front A-arms and the extended legs of your hoist. My car has 26.7” tall 215/75-14 tires on it so I had adequate clearance.

I know your car has low profile tires on it, it would be worth your trouble to find some 15” wheels that clear your disc brake setup and mount some tall used tires on them to ge the needed clearance for the hoist legs.

Just one of the different ways to do it, hope this helps.

Good luck.

.
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  #27  
Old 11-26-2021, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murf View Post
Well, I probably should let Larry answer but in the meantime .

You can lift the car easier than with a Jack. You can go higher than a floor Jack easily can & it would be much easier to adjust the height as needed. No messing with Jack stands, blocks etc. I sure wish I had one. I also agree the levelers that mount close to the engine not with the longish chains would be really nice . I just have the HarborFreight one with the chains it’s OK. I took the crank handle off & double nutted the thread rod so I could use a battery operated drill.

Have fun!
Murf
Yup, exactly. It's just easier on the lift moving the car up and down slightly as needed without the need to even bend over really.

Here are a couple pics of me doing exactly that. Installing a complete 455/400 turbo with accessories in the Firebird I restored.

Another shot doing the same thing in a 57 T-bird I restored.

Another one as I just finished dropping in the entire assembly in a 69 Mach 1 Mustang I restored.
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Old 11-26-2021, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Vaught View Post
64speed,
1) You put the engine and trans together and tilt the engine just enough upward until the engine and trans will go over the fender.

2) Now it is inside the the body and you raise the body a foot on the two post lift and raise the engine and trans an additional 1 foot and try to stick the assembly into the firewall hole.

3) If the firewall hole has the engine centered and the end of the trans clears the floor, you just take a floor jack and raise the back of the trans and install the engine on its mounts.

4) If the trans hits the floor you raise the 2 post lift an additional 6 inches and try it again.

At some point the engine and trans will be in the correct location to put the trans crossmember in the car.

SIMPLE

Tom V.
Thank you Tom. I never would have thought to do that. If it is too hard in the driveway I guess I’ll tow it to my in laws

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  #29  
Old 11-26-2021, 09:05 PM
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I've appreciated the discussion and photos in this thread, as I will soon be facing a similar situation as 64speed. I hadn't seen the Mac's pivot plate/leveler before, but it seems really handy. Looks like I'll be adding it to my Christmas list this year.

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  #30  
Old 11-26-2021, 09:22 PM
markpj23 markpj23 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b-man View Post
.......The Mac’s Pivot Plate makes it easy...
Looks like a great tool but are the 3/8 inch carburetor studs up to the weight? Obviously it has worked for you but it seems like you'd want beefier studs. Did you use grade 8 or something or was it not a concern?

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  #31  
Old 11-26-2021, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markpj23 View Post
Looks like a great tool but are the 3/8 inch carburetor studs up to the weight? Obviously it has worked for you but it seems like you'd want beefier studs. Did you use grade 8 or something or was it not a concern?
The carb flange bolts are only 5/16-18 coarse thread and more than up to the task. No grade 8 hardware necessary.

Many folks are afraid of the small fasteners breaking and rightfully so, but worry not as they’re far stronger than you think.

Those four little carb studs easily handled an all-iron 389 and 2 speed weighing in together at roughly 850 pounds.

Mac’s wouldn’t be too smart marketing an engine lifting device that would fail due to a faulty design that requires you to fasten it to the carb flange. Simple engine lifting plates have been around since forever, the Mac’s Pivot Plate is the ultimate progression of that design.
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  #32  
Old 11-27-2021, 09:53 AM
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Thanks B-man....

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  #33  
Old 11-27-2021, 11:03 AM
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FWIW, the math for 4, 5/16 studs/bolts, grade 2, was just shy of 16,000 lbs when I worked it out a couple years ago. Each bolt is 3930 lbs. You could do it with just one bolt providing it was in at least a 1 inch deep hole, the cast iron would probably fail before the bolt. With 4 bolts, you could theoretically lift the whole car safely.

I couldn't tell you how many Pontiac V8s, with transmissions attached that I've lifted with just 2, grade 2, 3/8 bolts holding everything up.

With chinese bolts, disregard everything............

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  #34  
Old 11-27-2021, 05:01 PM
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2 and a half hours and no damage
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Old 11-27-2021, 05:05 PM
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I have no idea why this new phone rotates my pictures

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Old 11-27-2021, 06:29 PM
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2 and a half hours and no damage

Good job! Looks great.

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Old 11-27-2021, 06:50 PM
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2 and a half hours and no damage
WooHoo! Looks great.

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  #38  
Old 11-27-2021, 09:02 PM
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Nice work!


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  #39  
Old 12-06-2021, 08:59 AM
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You’ve received so much info my head was spinning taking it all in, amazed at all the Pontiac Knoledge out there. Install the headers in the engine bay tied out of the way, raise the ass of your car as high as you can get it and install the engine, have a friend guid the trans in through the tunnel, once the engine is on its mounts raise the tail shaft and install the trans cross member. Now figure out the headers.
Good luck

  #40  
Old 12-06-2021, 10:36 AM
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Glad you got it done!

For future reference I also take the wheels off the car when it’s on the lift. You don’t have to lift the motor/Trans near as high (especially if it is already at an angle) since you can sit the car so low. I agree that it’s nice to be able to move the car up and down as you position it.

Also- I am not 1000% sure but I think my 65 shop manual suggested removing the engine and Trans as one assembly?

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