#1  
Old 03-12-2021, 10:09 AM
dpoltzer's Avatar
dpoltzer dpoltzer is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Now in Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 941
Default What to do now / Dynacorn Hood

Purchased a new Dynacorn hood for my 1970 T/A that is defective. The dealer I purchased hood from told me Dynacorn has terrible service after the sale and will not help you. I wrote a very clear email to Dynacorn 5 days ago concerning the issue and sent 4 detailed photos as well. I also called Dynacorn 3 times now to confirm that they received email and to ask when someone would be calling me to help resolve the problem. The customer service rep told me they would get on my case right away but so far "crickets". It is looking like I am going to get screwed by Dynacorn. My question now is: can this hood be repaired or do I have to try and find a good used hood? ( I realize that the body shop that completed the paint and body work "should" have fitted the hood before paint and they said they did, but obviously they did not.) Suggestions?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	centerthumbnail_IMG_0531.jpg
Views:	776
Size:	49.5 KB
ID:	562526   Click image for larger version

Name:	driver sidethumbnail_IMG_0528.jpg
Views:	423
Size:	40.0 KB
ID:	562527   Click image for larger version

Name:	middle rightthumbnail_IMG_0530.jpg
Views:	406
Size:	50.8 KB
ID:	562528   Click image for larger version

Name:	pass side thumbnail_IMG_0529.jpg
Views:	394
Size:	40.1 KB
ID:	562529  

__________________
1970 T/A
  #2  
Old 03-12-2021, 10:45 AM
nas t eh nas t eh is offline
Senior Chief
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 272
Default

I am not a bodyman but at this point I would bodywork the endura nose to match the hood and repaint it. It should be possible to match the paint after bodyworking the nose. But if it came out slightly off color that would not be unusual anyway.

That and the hood could be gently flattened at the front some to help reduce the work needed to the nose. It is the paint shop you need to harass more so than the parts supplier


Last edited by nas t eh; 03-12-2021 at 10:50 AM.
  #3  
Old 03-12-2021, 11:27 AM
Gator67's Avatar
Gator67 Gator67 is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Scottsdale
Posts: 1,640
Default

My body guy spent many hours fitting the hood, bumper, nose, fenders, etc., on my birds and everything was OEM. I suspect the aftermarket hood will need more work, and a good shop should be able to advise you as to whether it's cost effective to fix that one vs. finding an original. I think you're either going to have to work with the body shop that did the work or find another one.

__________________
"If the best Mustang is the Camaro, the best Camaro is actually the Firebird" David Zenlea
  #4  
Old 03-12-2021, 11:30 AM
Greg Reid's Avatar
Greg Reid Greg Reid is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palmetto, GA. USA
Posts: 16,163
Default

I don't think that could be fixed to my satisfaction. The 'peak' of the hood is off center in relation to the peak of the bumper. Even if you worked the bumper, you'd have to do it all the way down to the bottom. Same with the hood...if you 'move' the peak, it would have to be done all the way from front to back...then it may be noticeably off center from the shaker opening.
I'm no expert by a long shot though... We have some here though and I'm curious as to what they have to say.

__________________
Greg Reid
Palmetto, Georgia

  #5  
Old 03-12-2021, 11:41 AM
pfilean's Avatar
pfilean pfilean is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: West Des Moines, IA
Posts: 1,932
Default

As the fit looks worse on the drivers side I would make a template just for point of information. Get a piece of cardboard and fit it in the slot between the hood and nose. Without scratching the paint scribe a line of the hood contour onto the cardboard. Cut on the line and then refit the template to the hood with the ends reversed side to side. If it happens to fit in the reversed position then it would seem that the hood might be good and it is the nose that needs reworked. That nose material could get a little squirrely anyway and if it has been sitting in a pile for a while while other work was done who know what may have happened to it.

  #6  
Old 03-12-2021, 11:42 AM
dpoltzer's Avatar
dpoltzer dpoltzer is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Now in Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 941
Default

I measured the endura nose and it is true with no sags or dips in the material. I believe Dynacorn messed up when they welded the lower hood panel to the upper hood panel which allowed the center/front section of the hood to sit up way too high. Thanks for the input.

__________________
1970 T/A
  #7  
Old 03-12-2021, 12:00 PM
JSchmitz's Avatar
JSchmitz JSchmitz is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Union, MO
Posts: 2,131
Default

I would start by blocking up the outside and trying to carefully push the center down. after my GTO was painted I was initially convinced that there was no way in hell everything was going to line up. But after hours of adjusting it all did.

The Following User Says Thank You to JSchmitz For This Useful Post:
  #8  
Old 03-12-2021, 12:01 PM
Chief of the 60's Chief of the 60's is offline
Suspended
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: On the Rez
Posts: 3,233
Default

Problem 1: Chiwanese parts are sub-substandard and you always get what you pay for. Never expect them to fit or act like OEM regardless of what anybody says.

Problem 2: As stated, bodyshop screwed up. Car should have NEVER been painted until panel fit was right. Kinda makes one wonder about the rest of their work under the paint.

Granted photos don't show true story but from what I can see it seems as though some creative jockeying around and shimming should make most of that go away.

Your chance at a 100 point show car went away with the Chiwanese parts. Now you just need to make due and live with it or redo the restoration using only NOS or OEM parts.

Bottom line, lesson learned and you still have a decent car.

  #9  
Old 03-12-2021, 01:02 PM
dhutton dhutton is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Mountain Springs, Texas
Posts: 559
Default

Just had a similar issue with a 78. I was able to resolve it by loosening the screws that hold the urethane skin to the bumper frame and pulling the skin up. I can’t remember if the early second gen bumpers have the same screws. It’s been several years since I built one. You can also recess the latch a skooch lower to take a bit of the crown out of the hood. Between the two you should able to make it work. Don’t give up yet.

Don

  #10  
Old 03-12-2021, 05:38 PM
Stan65 Stan65 is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Toledo, IL
Posts: 192
Default

I have fixed this very issue on the exact same hood for my car. In a post below JSchmitz suggested to support the two front corners and push down on the center. Do not do this with a bird hood. If you push down from the top you will get outtie dents from the underside bracing pushing up.

To fix mine, I chained from the center hood latch area on the core support to the hood latch underside bracing with a chain with hooks, and used a scissor jack at each corner to push up.

Be very careful and go slow. You will have to over shoot and let it spring back. If you go too far, you may buckle the skin.

As a disclaimer I did this before paint, but had no issues with the hood buckling so no special bodywork.

The 1st hood I bought I pushed down from the top and created 2 outie dents. I dollied the dents out, but I made the skin weak and the under bracing ended up too close to the skin. Every time I closed the hood the outie dents would reappear.

Here is a before and after picture.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	E4C47598-10E7-41CB-A5FD-CE93BE548AE4.jpg
Views:	275
Size:	45.6 KB
ID:	562536   Click image for larger version

Name:	5799BEC4-E76C-4EBA-96F7-48A492453F2B.jpg
Views:	285
Size:	66.7 KB
ID:	562537  

  #11  
Old 03-12-2021, 06:50 PM
n20ta2's Avatar
n20ta2 n20ta2 is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cape Cod MA
Posts: 1,000
Default

That can be fixed but should have been long before paint. Passenger side isn't to bad, the drivers side will need the most work. I'm sure that corner could be bent up so you can lower that hood edge

__________________
1969 GTO street strip project 11.1 forged 461, highport heads
1995 Trans-am 420 ci sb 14:1 compression 9"ford
9.89@132 1.34 60ft SOLD!
  #12  
Old 03-12-2021, 08:03 PM
vertigto's Avatar
vertigto vertigto is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 775
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan65 View Post
I have fixed this very issue on the exact same hood for my car. In a post below JSchmitz suggested to support the two front corners and push down on the center. Do not do this with a bird hood. If you push down from the top you will get outtie dents from the underside bracing pushing up.

To fix mine, I chained from the center hood latch area on the core support to the hood latch underside bracing with a chain with hooks, and used a scissor jack at each corner to push up.

Be very careful and go slow. You will have to over shoot and let it spring back. If you go too far, you may buckle the skin.

As a disclaimer I did this before paint, but had no issues with the hood buckling so no special bodywork.

The 1st hood I bought I pushed down from the top and created 2 outie dents. I dollied the dents out, but I made the skin weak and the under bracing ended up too close to the skin. Every time I closed the hood the outie dents would reappear.

Here is a before and after picture.
Nice rims...who made them? 18s??

__________________

1970 GTO (Granada Gold) - 400 / TH400
  #13  
Old 03-12-2021, 08:49 PM
Stan65 Stan65 is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Toledo, IL
Posts: 192
Default

Don’t want to hijack the post but.....

I worked with Jason Rushforth to design and make the wheels. Fronts are 19x10 and rears are 19x13.

I made the center caps myself to use NOS PMD hubcap centers I think they scale up nicely.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	AB7FA8F3-3BAD-40B6-99C5-6D794198A939.jpg
Views:	172
Size:	86.6 KB
ID:	562561   Click image for larger version

Name:	B144ABD3-1298-47E4-8D9F-D9A34522E05F.jpg
Views:	180
Size:	63.2 KB
ID:	562563   Click image for larger version

Name:	8611BE30-53C3-4FE5-957B-B783903F693E.jpg
Views:	174
Size:	53.8 KB
ID:	562564   Click image for larger version

Name:	7934A31E-F794-4E87-9FEB-7BDF38CB29F7.jpg
Views:	161
Size:	42.5 KB
ID:	562565  

The Following User Says Thank You to Stan65 For This Useful Post:
  #14  
Old 03-12-2021, 10:38 PM
vertigto's Avatar
vertigto vertigto is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 775
Default

Apologies for the hi-jack...I thought they were Rushforth's.

This is my favorite rendering of the Night Trains...and an inspiration.


__________________

1970 GTO (Granada Gold) - 400 / TH400
  #15  
Old 03-13-2021, 10:16 PM
dpoltzer's Avatar
dpoltzer dpoltzer is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Now in Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 941
Default

Thanks for all of the replies! I will share this info with a new body man and see if he wants to give it a shot. Thanks again.

__________________
1970 T/A
  #16  
Old 03-13-2021, 11:11 PM
MUSLCAH MUSLCAH is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: N.H.
Posts: 1,920
Default

Looks like the hood latch needs adjustment,to bring the hood down . Then loosen the 2 bolts on the Radiator support and shove it over to line up the peak of the hood and cover. If that don’t work ....measure your frame rails ,it may need a tug.

  #17  
Old 03-15-2021, 08:20 AM
Greg Reid's Avatar
Greg Reid Greg Reid is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palmetto, GA. USA
Posts: 16,163
Default

I guess I can't see straight. You guys are talking about the hood being too high...it sure looked off-center to me.... Carry on...


__________________
Greg Reid
Palmetto, Georgia

  #18  
Old 03-15-2021, 09:57 AM
Chief of the 60's Chief of the 60's is offline
Suspended
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: On the Rez
Posts: 3,233
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Reid View Post
I guess I can't see straight. You guys are talking about the hood being too high...it sure looked off-center to me.... Carry on...

Both and totally compensatable.

The Following User Says Thank You to Chief of the 60's For This Useful Post:
  #19  
Old 03-15-2021, 10:52 AM
Paul E Paul E is offline
Senior Chief
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Oshkosh WI
Posts: 311
Default

put some loosely crumpled tin foil on the fan shroud and close the hood. It will tell you it it is hitting the fan shroud and only take 2 minutes.

Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:50 AM.

 

About Us

The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.

 




Copyright © 2017