[pilot737]

I noticed my CLUTCH ROD TO PEDAL NYLON BUSHING is cracked/very worn and fallen down to the other (firewall) end of the rod. (I moved it up into place when taking the picture for demo purpose.)

I can order this bushing. Is it sorta important?

Also, if I remove the cotter pin, the rod won't move back out of place unless the clutch is depressed...which I assume one must do from underneath to relieve pressure from the rod-pedal connection?

Or is there another way?

[gtospieg]

Disconnect the clutch adjustment rod down at the bellhousing and you'll be able to move the clutch pedal wherever you need to in order to remove the cotter pin. Yes, replace the worn piece. Hopefully the rod or attachment point is not worn/hogged out.

[pilot737]

Is it difficult to access this connection point under the car?

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[PontiacJim1959]

Originally Posted by pilot737

Is it difficult to access this connection point under the car?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Not sure what year you have, but mine is '68. I enclosed a diagram of it. I would undo the rod at the "Z-bar", or what is called the "counter shaft" in the diagram. You should have some play in the clutch pedal/linkage and can pull the cotter pin out at the Z-bar. This should allow you to move the clutch pedal to access the cotter pin better and get the clutch rod out.

Not sure why the washer? I think that is a bandaide fix. Most likely you are going to find that the clutch rod and the hole in the clutch pedal where it attaches to be wallowed out. Now is the time to repair all this.

Pics of my worn out clutch rod end and wallowed out clutch pedal hole.

[pilot737]

Originally Posted by PontiacJim1959

Not sure what year you have, but mine is '68. I enclosed a diagram of it. I would undo the rod at the "Z-bar", or what is called the "counter shaft" in the diagram. You should have some play in the clutch pedal/linkage and can pull the cotter pin out at the Z-bar. This should allow you to move the clutch pedal to access the cotter pin better and get the clutch rod out.

Not sure why the washer? I think that is a bandaide fix. Most likely you are going to find that the clutch rod and the hole in the clutch pedal where it attaches to be wallowed out. Now is the time to repair all this.

Pics of my worn out clutch rod end and wallowed out clutch pedal hole.

I have 67 GTO. To be clear, I can remove the cotter pin but the linkage will not slide out of the hole because another part of the car is in the way when the clutch is fully released. I'll need to disconnect the rod at the other end (as you instructed) so I can move the clutch pedal down without having a ton of pressure against moving it.

Ames sells the bushing, part R167BF, clutch rod to pedal nylon bushing. So I don't think it's a band-aid fix.

[PontiacJim1959]

Originally Posted by pilot737

I have 67 GTO. To be clear, I can remove the cotter pin but the linkage will not slide out of the hole because another part of the car is in the way when the clutch is fully released. I'll need to disconnect the rod at the other end (as you instructed) so I can move the clutch pedal down without having a ton of pressure against moving it.

Ames sells the bushing, part R167BF, clutch rod to pedal nylon bushing. So I don't think it's a band-aid fix.

OK, the '68 is different and does not use that nylon bushing as you can see in the diagram.

I was thinking you were referring to the nylon bushing/steel sleeve that the clutch/brake pedal swings on from the bracket. You can see it in my '68 diagram, upper right. A nylon bushing goes on each end of the clutch pedal and then the brake pedal. I replaced mine with all new. I enclosed a photo of the old parts that get replaced by a kit.

[Tim john]

A HURST Pit Pak set of nylon bushings for shifter linkage fits and works well. Several years ago I informed AMES of this and they now off this "bushing". Not sure if they took my advice or not.

Tim john---