#1  
Old 03-25-2021, 03:45 PM
unruhjonny's Avatar
unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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Default recolouring fender badges(??)

Can someone help me out?

I have been sorting through my parts for a while now, and right now one thing that comes to mind are the fender badges.

They appear to have originally been painted a black colour with only the front edges of the lettering showing the crome underneath;
Time though seems to often fade away the black paint.

Since I have a little time on my hands, I am trying to take care of any smaller stuff I can, and would like to recolour the badge backings;

Has anyone done this?

Does anyone have instructions for me on how to do this so that it doesn't look like I did it, and so that it might hold up?



As you can see, I have several missing a stud that I can practice on.

Thank in advance to anyone who might be able to help me out!!
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1970 Formula 400
Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior
A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car.
Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left.


1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing)
2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs)
  #2  
Old 03-25-2021, 11:23 PM
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Formulabruce Formulabruce is offline
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Here is how I do these.
1. soak in thick paint stripper. With gloves on, clean them with a old tooth brush.
2. Clean them with dawn liquid soap and water. Dry in Sun, or use a heat gun on medium.
3. get new gloves on ( we do Not want your skin oil on the parts.
4. Rinse them with wax and grease remover. Solvent based, will be in metal can. You can use lacquer thinner too.
Find a old card board box and insert the emblems into holes you make with the posts.
Do Not push them all the way down.
5. Slide a few paint sticks under the emblems ( you'll find out why a bit later)
6. Mix up some black epoxy paint. I use a cheap OMNI paint for this with activator.
Some places may sell a black epoxy 2K in a can with a internal vessel,( like Eastwood).
7. Paint your emblems sides, it doesn't matter if some gets on the face, but do not lay it down heavy at all .
8. Let the epoxy cure ( must be around 70 degrees for epoxy to work correctly) for about 15 min.
9. Before it is totally cured, with your gloves still on, Get a rag like an old t shirt ( non paper) and get your index finger stuffed into one layer and
get some lacquer thinner on it. Make sure the rag is tight around your finger end.
Now start to wipe the tops off. Probably only want to do 2-3 emblems at first try, at once.
You will need a new spot on the rag and go over the tops again, You do NOT want the rag soaked, but moist enough to engage the epoxy.'
If you do not get the tops perfect, no worries, some buffing compound should finish them up.
The Epoxy is a durable paint for this job and if prepped right, should stick well.
IF you end up pushing the emblems down during the last step, the paint sticks will stop the emblem from wanting to stick to the cardboard box.

  #3  
Old 03-26-2021, 09:42 PM
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keith k keith k is offline
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I've wondered how to refinish these myself....and how they might have done it when they were made. Dipped maybe?

Bruce, I'm not sure if the emblems were blacked out the same way in all model years, but on my '70 the bright metal is not only on the top surface, but down the first step and on the top recessed surface around the letters as well. And then only the sides below that are black. The process you described would not result in correct appearance on the stepped edge around the letters, I don't think.

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keith k
70 Trans Am RA III / T400 / Lucerne Blue / Bright Blue
70 Trans Am RA III / M20 / Lucerne Blue / Sandalwood
70 Formula RA III / M21 / Lucerne Blue / Bright Blue
  #4  
Old 03-26-2021, 11:57 PM
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unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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Bruce's reply did get me thinking a bit more about this from a different angle;
and my thoughts touch directly on what you said about getting the correct areas cleaned off.

I have a product here that is over twenty years old (I say that only because I do not know if it can be purchased any longer);
It's almost like plasti-dip, but it's meant to mask off any parts you don't want painted, then you peel it off after the paint cures...

I just did a google search, this looks like the same stuff, I believe it's the same name, but it's not a brand name I am familiar with:
https://www.amazon.com/M132-Mr-Maski.../dp/B000VG6WX2
The one I have was from probably the best line of paints that I had access to when I made plastic model kits... before I had a real car.

I do like the idea of using a better paint than something out of a rattle can, but would really like to know the process done originally... or how the repops are done (because they do look correct)

By the way, none of thise badges in my "collection" are reproductions.

__________________
1970 Formula 400
Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior
A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car.
Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left.


1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing)
2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs)
  #5  
Old 03-27-2021, 01:01 AM
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Formulabruce Formulabruce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith k View Post
I've wondered how to refinish these myself....and how they might have done it when they were made. Dipped maybe?

Bruce, I'm not sure if the emblems were blacked out the same way in all model years, but on my '70 the bright metal is not only on the top surface, but down the first step and on the top recessed surface around the letters as well. And then only the sides below that are black. The process you described would not result in correct appearance on the stepped edge around the letters, I don't think.
I have refinished those same 1970 emblems, and you are right about the step.
I used same system but I used a "finger nail file" in a thin X60 rag with thinner to clean that first step. A lot more tedious, for sure and I am glad you mentioned it.
I still feel that epoxy is the best and most durable option for paint.
Originally, when made, the emblems were coated with wax on the top and first step .They were dipped in a sort of mold upside down, flipped up and painted. machine operation.
I have used cold waterproof hi temp grease with a "q" tip for these types of jobs with some luck.
That Liquid mask might be an option but would want to test it with the epoxy paint first on something else.

  #6  
Old 03-27-2021, 10:08 AM
unruhjonny's Avatar
unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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Oh wow!!

Thanks for sharing more thoughts, and your understanding on how they were originally done!!!

__________________
1970 Formula 400
Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior
A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car.
Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left.


1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing)
2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs)
  #7  
Old 03-28-2021, 08:48 AM
keith k's Avatar
keith k keith k is offline
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Location: SE Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulabruce View Post
I have refinished those same 1970 emblems, and you are right about the step.
I used same system but I used a "finger nail file" in a thin X60 rag with thinner to clean that first step. A lot more tedious, for sure and I am glad you mentioned it.
I still feel that epoxy is the best and most durable option for paint.
Originally, when made, the emblems were coated with wax on the top and first step .They were dipped in a sort of mold upside down, flipped up and painted. machine operation.
I have used cold waterproof hi temp grease with a "q" tip for these types of jobs with some luck.
That Liquid mask might be an option but would want to test it with the epoxy paint first on something else.
Yes, thanks... I hadn't worked out how I might do it, but the word "tedious" was definitely in the mix!

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keith k
70 Trans Am RA III / T400 / Lucerne Blue / Bright Blue
70 Trans Am RA III / M20 / Lucerne Blue / Sandalwood
70 Formula RA III / M21 / Lucerne Blue / Bright Blue
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