[67CN]

I've gotten one power top switch from PY and one from those other guys and both of them burnt out within a year of VERY little use. If all of the internal components were made of copper I believe the problem of burning out would be solved. Also the grease gets on the contacts and precipitates the burnt contacts. I've gotten a lot of great things from PY. This switch is not one of them. This product can easily be improved to last a lifetime.

I went to Napa and bought a two way momentary switch for $10, drilled out a hole already under my dash, and mounted the switch with the correct original bezel. Looks good and works like a charm.

[Ccass]

Jeff, i'm going to pass this on to the mfg. and see if what they say. Over the last 10 years probably 2000 of these switches have been made. Not very many have been returned. In the meantime, I would confirm that your car does not have an electrical problem. If your top motor is going bad, it could be drawing more amps and that could be causing the switch to go bad.

If anybody else has had a problem with this repro switch, post when you bought it and how long before it went. This may help determine whether is was a specific production run.

[Half-Inch Stud]

WE JUST bought a 68 Power Top switch from PY. It came in with cut wiring: Switch and ~8" of wire, then the rest of the harness. So I had to solder the wires together. WHY?!

Looks okay. Installed it and the top went up&down pretty good (for now?).

[Ccass]

My understanding is it allows owners to install the new switch without having to drag the entire wire harness through the back of the dash. The manufacturer assumed that many owners still have the 'bad' switch and wiring in the dash and that they just want to replace the switch. If this is the case, they just cut the wires and splice the new switch in making it is an easy install. Unfortunately, owners who need the entire switch and wiring, need to perform the same operation.