[Aaron65]

As soon as I can get out to the garage without totally freezing, I'm going to put in my new headliner, but I also noticed that some of my interior plastic (sail panel trim, passenger lower door panel) are faded badly.

This will be a summer job for sure, but is there a matching red for '74 red interiors? There are a lot of options out there, it seems. Has anyone used any of them? If so, how's the coverage?

[Dave R]

I've used SEM with good results but I was painting black over red. I used their plastic cleaner, followed by SEM plastic prep and then their rattle can paint (Landau black I think). I left the parts to dry in about 150 degree heat for a few hours and they looked like brand new with no issues.

[schneidsd455]

About 15 years ago, I used a kit from Just Dashes that was matched to a sample of 74 red that I sent them. Although a bit pricey, I was pleased with the results, color match was excellent, and had no performance issues for the next seven or eight years I owned the car.

I've also used the interior paint that Ames sells on my last car, a 74 with off-white interior. While it was a cheaper option that the JD kit, performance and color match seem fine. Coverage, however, seems a bit on the light side. Of course, for some replacement pieces, I was going from black to white, which could very well account for my thoughts of light coverage. I can't speak for the closeness of the color match for 74 red, as I haven't seen it in the Ames paints. I'm quite sure that for my next project, assuming the color-match is good, I will be buying the paint from Ames.

[Greg Reid]

I used SEM interior paint for my dark aqua seats and console. Worked great. TCP Global in California was the only place I could find that could match the color from the original GM codes.

[Aaron65]

I'll start looking for the SEM stuff in red. I also finally ordered an Ames catalog...thanks!

[ladytata]

You can walk in or look online at OReilly auto parts. Online is better since most people there have know idea. Right side of their website on top is specialty, click on that, then paint and go from there. They also have the sem book behind the counter. Sem has great products and don't forget to get the low luster clear coat. It helps with discoloring, and remember 4 light coats and one last good one if changing the color dramatically.

[chuckies76ta]

From what I've done, Take the plastic part and wash with dish soap and hot water. After completely dry and before painting, wipe down with a plastic cleaner.

Next step is to use a plastic Adhesion promoter, then paint.

I used an Adhesion Promoter, primer, then paint.

[ladytata]

You primer before you dye it? Don't you get to much build up in the grain?

[Greg Reid]

Why use adhesion promoter and primer? They are the same thing functionally in this application.

As for buildup ladytata, you're not going to use a surfacer type primer (which is thick and high in solids). You are using a primer that promotes adhesion between the surface and the color...which takes me back to my question...Why use both? They are the same in this instance...In my opinion anyway. The adhesion promoter/primer I used is actually a clear aerosol that goes on very thin.

Now, as for buying the SEM products off the shelf, from what I found, they are just generic colors. Even SEM couldn't match my '68 color as they didn't have the codes to go back that far. I sent them a sample per their request but they were not satisfied with the results.
TCP Global in California was the only place I found that could do it from the original codes and the color was perfect.

[ladytata]

Ahh, yes I sometimes use that too.

[ladytata]

Have same problem with color,

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by ladytata

You primer before you dye it? Don't you get to much build up in the grain?

In my case I used one coat of primer because of the paint I was using. I sprayed all my parts with a spray gun, not rattle can paint. I picked the color I wanted.