#1  
Old 05-17-2019, 02:13 AM
strawmann strawmann is offline
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Default front end rebuild, 63 LeMans

This will be my 1st major DIY project on her.

What bushings and parts should I prioritize? Are there secondary ones that are recommended, but aren't crucial? I've seen kits on eBay and USA Parts, but their parts lists aren't consistent.

And if you've been through it, any tips and tricks for me?

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Old 05-17-2019, 06:26 AM
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Jeff Hamlin Jeff Hamlin is offline
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Default FWIW

Last time we went through the front end on the Tempest (Over 10 yrs now).
Everything came from Kanter, No issues and shes still going strong.

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Last edited by Jeff Hamlin; 02-25-2024 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 05-17-2019, 04:41 PM
strawmann strawmann is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Hamlin View Post
Last time we went through the front end on the Tempest (Over 10 yrs now).
Everything came from Kanter, No issues and shes still going strong.
Thanks Jeff. Do you remember the parts you replaced, by chance? Any sort of list would be helpful.

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Old 05-18-2019, 07:30 AM
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Jeff Hamlin Jeff Hamlin is offline
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She was a tired old gal when purchased and needed almost everything.
IIRC it was a Full Front-end kit.

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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did, in his sleep.
Not screaming like the passengers in his car.

Last edited by Jeff Hamlin; 02-25-2024 at 11:10 AM.
  #5  
Old 05-22-2019, 04:44 PM
Doug Doug is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strawmann View Post
This will be my 1st major DIY project on her.

What bushings and parts should I prioritize? Are there secondary ones that are recommended, but aren't crucial? I've seen kits on eBay and USA Parts, but their parts lists aren't consistent.

And if you've been through it, any tips and tricks for me?
Do yourself a favor and buy a Kanter deluxe kit. I did a few years ago after searching Ebay and scrounging thru swap meets for many months for all the parts you need.

When buying lower ball joints, be aware that many people will sell you Buick Skylark pieces which will not work with a 63 Lemans.

I suggest you change coils springs while you are at it.

Buy a piece of 1/2" all-thread rod about 24" long. Double-nut one end and stick the rod up inside the coil spring up thru shock mounting holes and put a nut on the end which can be held with a flat wrench. Using a ratchet and socket (air gun if you have it) on the double-nut end, you can snug the rod down and keep the control arms (and coil spring) under control when you loosen the ball joints. Reversing the procedure when installing the coil spring keeps it under control. (Grease the rod threads thoroughly)

Always use safety jacks or other positive blocking to support the car!

P.S. I don't know if the Kanter kit includes inner tie rods. They may be available as extra cost (expensive) items.

  #6  
Old 05-22-2019, 08:04 PM
strawmann strawmann is offline
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Thanks Doug. They don't include the inners, so I'll have to get those separately.

I let my OCD run free and compared Kanter with Performance Now and PST. PST came up $50-$100 cheaper for the same parts. Do you think it's worth spending the extra money for Kanter?
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Old 05-22-2019, 09:35 PM
Doug Doug is offline
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Strawmann,

I think the inner tie rods in your chart are $98 each. When you adjust for that (and the sleeves) Kanter is virtually the same as PST.

I think that RARE PARTS (California outfit) supplies most of the vendors with these parts. They supply (supplied?) NAPA stores with some of these old parts too. They rebuild some steering components but it is expensive. (You have to furnish cores)

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Old 05-22-2019, 10:13 PM
strawmann strawmann is offline
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I'll check out Rare Parts. Thanks again!!

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