#81  
Old 04-12-2017, 11:54 AM
GruntedCatalina GruntedCatalina is offline
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jeff! I dont think ill be doing any kind of selling on this 455. I was ecstatic to have it. Im a firm believer in starting in stock form and slowly build it up so one day i may sell them but not soon.

Tom! i was trying to find more specs on the stock heads! thanks for the bit of info. Do you or anyone here know if I would need to get different valve springs for the 068 cam?

I also ran some tests on the motor as I didnt have much time the other day. holds oil pressure, spins freely and the push rods tightened up when i spun it up. Not sure if any of you guys had done that before, but you pull the distributor, a long screwdriver with a broken handle, put it in a drill, put the flathead down and spin. quick way to see if oil pressure is there. Going to do a compression test as well just to check it out. May even see how it runs on a test stand before going further.

  #82  
Old 04-12-2017, 12:36 PM
GruntedCatalina GruntedCatalina is offline
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Also, heres another picture! lol

I was happy to find out my HEI will work in the 455 and i believe the spark plugs and all the other maintenance items that i stuffed into the 389 come over i believe. making things a little less costly.

--Edit

I got an old ram air set up from another vehicle. it fits right on my carb, I think once its all in there im gonna buff it up paint me an Indian on the center and run some new venting for it.
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  #83  
Old 04-12-2017, 04:47 PM
GruntedCatalina GruntedCatalina is offline
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I wanted to make a few posts along the way of information I may need. like a GOTO so i dont have to scavenge the net or have a ton of favorites.

Torque specs,


-Main CapsEngine Oil 95 ft-lbs.
-Rear Main CapEngine Oil 120 ft-lbs.
-Connecting Rod Bolts Assembly Lube 45 ft-lbs.
-SD Connecting Rod Bolts Assembly Lube 65 ft-lbs.
-Cylinder Heads Engine oil 95 ft-lbs.
-Rocker Studs (screw-in) Engine Oil 55 ft-lbs.
-Rocker Arm Nuts(Non-Adjustable Rockers)Assembly Lube 20 ft-lbs.
-Oil Pump Bolts Engine Oil 30 ft-lbs.
-Oil Pump Cover Bolts Engine Oil 15 ft-lbs.
-Windage Tray Engine Oil 15 ft-lbs.
-Oil Pan Engine Oil 12 ft-lbs.
-Camshaft Thrust Plate Engine Oil 15 ft-lbs.
-Cam Sprocket/Timing Gear(upper)Thread Locker 45 ft-lbs.
-Timing Cover to Block Engine Oil 35 ft-lbs.
-Water Pump to Cover Engine Oil ---
-Single Timing Cover toIntake boltInstall rubber o-ring with light RTV silcone 10 ft-lbs.
-Valley Pan Bolts Engine Oil 15 ft-lbs.
-Intake Manifold(Cast Iron Heads)Non- Hardening Sealer 40 ft-lbs.
-Valve Cover Engine Oil 8 ft-lbs.
-Exhaust Manifold Anti-Seize Lubricant 30 ft-lbs.
-Spark Plugs No Lube or Sealer 20 ft-lbs.
-Flexplate (Automatic)Flywheel (Clutch)Thread Locker 95 ft-lbs.
-Clutch Pressure Plate Thread Locker 25 ft-lbs.
-Centerbolt(Harmonic Damper)Thread Locker 160 ft-lbs.
-Bellhousing(Transmission to Block)Engine Oil 40 ft-lbs.

  #84  
Old 04-12-2017, 05:03 PM
tom s tom s is offline
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You will need to have the heads gone thru.One pc stainless valves,screwin studs,cut for oil seals,proper springs and retainers for what ever cam you use.Tom

  #85  
Old 04-12-2017, 05:28 PM
GruntedCatalina GruntedCatalina is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom s View Post
You will need to have the heads gone thru.One pc stainless valves,screwin studs,cut for oil seals,proper springs and retainers for what ever cam you use.Tom
oh yeah definitely. I would be replacing these old hunkers either way for new ones when i refresh the motor. a lot of conflicting online info on the motor being 10:1 stating 91 octane isnt high enough and would need additive.

i always thought anything higher than 10:1 would need additive.

  #86  
Old 04-12-2017, 05:42 PM
tom s tom s is offline
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For me,I dont go over 9.5 with pump gas.I just dont want to take a chance on a bad tank of gas,pistons getting carboned up,super hot days etc etc.When you push the envelope you have to be right on the tune with not much room for error.If it starts the detonation you will be retarding it,upping the chance of running hotter and reduced performance.JMO,Tom

  #87  
Old 04-12-2017, 06:14 PM
Marv Marv is offline
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Do you guys have easily accessible E85 or E100 in the USA?

I found a bit here and there in LA while I was over building a car in LA just before SEMA last year.

  #88  
Old 04-12-2017, 06:15 PM
GruntedCatalina GruntedCatalina is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv View Post
Do you guys have easily accessible E85 or E100 in the USA?

I found a bit here and there in LA while I was over building a car in LA just before SEMA last year.
I have an E85 station down the street. what are you getting at Marv? these old cars can handle swapping fuels?

  #89  
Old 04-12-2017, 06:30 PM
Marv Marv is offline
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If you set it up right E85 might be a good way to keep detonation at bay - it loves compression.

You just need to swap the current fuel hose for E85-rated stuff, and if you're going to push this car I'd probably look at putting a new pump in (one which suits E85's higher volumes required).

  #90  
Old 04-12-2017, 06:36 PM
GruntedCatalina GruntedCatalina is offline
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easy enough. lol. I will definitely see if there are more stations around my area to make this a viable option. When I ran E85 on my subaru i didnt really have to swap anything out other than a fuel map in the ECU. i had massive injectors and huge pump. Only drove it once in a blue moon to race events so i never needed it daily. the torque was wild.

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Old 04-12-2017, 08:13 PM
Jeffs64Cat Jeffs64Cat is offline
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Oh I thought you were selling parts off the 63 389 engine. My bad.

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  #92  
Old 04-12-2017, 08:17 PM
Marv Marv is offline
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I find the E85 will cause the inner lining of the rubber to fail and that can clog your engine. Happens quite a bit to cars running E85 on standard petrol set-ups out here - my Holden SSV ute (like a modern Chevy SS El Camino) has a flex-fuel sensor in it from the factory and has different rubber fuel lines to other models that aren't sold as E85-ready. We ran the Mighty Car Mods Subarute on E85 when we built it for the challenge against Roadkill and I was a bit surprised more guys weren't across how good it is in high-comp and boosted applications.

I don't want to seem like a know-it-all but we've been playing with "corn juice" down here for a few years and I'd hate to see someone damage a motor because of $2 rubber fuel line.

PS: - how good does it smell? Haha!

  #93  
Old 04-12-2017, 10:23 PM
GruntedCatalina GruntedCatalina is offline
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is it bad that i can sit in front of the exhaust taking whiffs of it? LOL!

just kidding but it is amazing.

and youre not coming off as a know it all; youre just sharing knowledge. as you can see i dont have extended use with E85, other than using it to get out that extra torque

I may frequent that in the future. i gotta look more!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv View Post
I find the E85 will cause the inner lining of the rubber to fail and that can clog your engine. Happens quite a bit to cars running E85 on standard petrol set-ups out here - my Holden SSV ute (like a modern Chevy SS El Camino) has a flex-fuel sensor in it from the factory and has different rubber fuel lines to other models that aren't sold as E85-ready. We ran the Mighty Car Mods Subarute on E85 when we built it for the challenge against Roadkill and I was a bit surprised more guys weren't across how good it is in high-comp and boosted applications.

I don't want to seem like a know-it-all but we've been playing with "corn juice" down here for a few years and I'd hate to see someone damage a motor because of $2 rubber fuel line.

PS: - how good does it smell? Haha!

  #94  
Old 04-13-2017, 10:58 PM
GruntedCatalina GruntedCatalina is offline
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looks like tomorrow will be a serious day. apparently someone called city ordnance on where my car is. I didnt have a large enough driveway to do all the work so I had it dropped off at my sisters until i could get it running. I have until Monday, nowhere to tow it and trying to think on how to get this running on its own legs before then....so now do i jam myself up and run attempt to run this motor as is or. do i figure out how to tow the vehicle to my familys cottage 300 miles away? lol

  #95  
Old 04-14-2017, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
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looks like tomorrow will be a serious day. apparently someone called city ordnance on where my car is. I didnt have a large enough driveway to do all the work so I had it dropped off at my sisters until i could get it running. I have until Monday, nowhere to tow it and trying to think on how to get this running on its own legs before then....so now do i jam myself up and run attempt to run this motor as is or. do i figure out how to tow the vehicle to my familys cottage 300 miles away? lol
It sucks to read this...Let's see, here we have someone who is: A) a taxpayer, B) minding his own GD business, C) a GOOD neighbor. And yet, some busy body decided to pinch YOU (yet probably doesn't say a THING about another neighbor who's dog barks incessantly and craps in other people's yards.

  #96  
Old 04-14-2017, 10:51 PM
GruntedCatalina GruntedCatalina is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Engine-Ear View Post
It sucks to read this...Let's see, here we have someone who is: A) a taxpayer, B) minding his own GD business, C) a GOOD neighbor. And yet, some busy body decided to pinch YOU (yet probably doesn't say a THING about another neighbor who's dog barks incessantly and craps in other people's yards.
Its actually the reason i had left NYC thinking it would be different. but sometimes no matter where you go; you get a bunch of people feel better about themselves making a problem for someone else.

But thats okay because. I got that poncho running like a clock today. 9 am to 9pm. I actually fixed the original 389 in there and stabilized the starter to work with the newer transmission. its all well. The brakes are not modern so I have to get used to them! lol. but seriously whats all this talk without some noise? heres a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVBix7ZDNxc

Thats my old beauty. shes almost rust free, that quarter was painted by the previous owner and minor work needed next to the door. I have all the chrome bits that will go on once I drive it home tomorrow. This stuff isnt easy to learn. its simple in a way yes but, the newer cars, almost everything is actuated by some sort of electronic so figuring out the mechanical side of things is a bit of a learning curve for me


Last edited by GruntedCatalina; 04-14-2017 at 10:56 PM.
  #97  
Old 04-16-2017, 12:22 AM
GruntedCatalina GruntedCatalina is offline
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so day 2 of driving my vehicle. at a light. im stopped, and brake fully depressed. Im damn sure I can feel something give on my brake pedal. like somewhere in the system, like a valve for a brief second. I then start to roll without a way to stop. LOL

so I immediately think its the brake cylinder. So i go to get home to get it checked out. It stalls. no bigs, carb'd motors, low idle, getting used to being on again. I pull off to get it back into park to start it back up. boom, you hear the starter scream. its not engaging. Got it towed to a friends shop. hopefully tomorrow I can squeeze some time on his lift to do a better repair job as I was in a huge bind earlier.

Speak to my friend, hes got a guy with a worked 455 looking to sell for cheap, a family friend that has had a reupholstery shop for 40 years and, willing to let me work over night at his shop. I am not sure what I had done to deserve such kindness but happy it came when i needed it most.

I plan on changing the brake booster on the vehicle as thats the last thing that was original. Im not sure if I can rebuild it. It would be nice to save a few bucks if i could.
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  #98  
Old 04-16-2017, 12:57 AM
GruntedCatalina GruntedCatalina is offline
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i might also rebuild the master cylinder instead of replacing it. save 40 bucks! i didnt expect it to be such a massive price difference. anyone have any knowledge in this?

  #99  
Old 04-17-2017, 06:49 PM
GruntedCatalina GruntedCatalina is offline
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Also wondering how I would tighten up this steering! holy snap! i heard a chevy caprice steering box might work? does anyone know of this? trying to tighten it up some

  #100  
Old 04-17-2017, 07:36 PM
AZ64GP AZ64GP is offline
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In my '64 Grand Prix, I used a stock steering box out of a '70 GTO/442/Chevelle/GS. I can't remember the ratio, but is a variable steering box and quite a bit faster than stock. It's also a few turns quicker too. I haven't driven my car yet so I can't say how well it works, but I believe it will make a big difference for not a lot of money. I have heard several people use later model GM boxes and also late model Jeep Grand Cherokee boxes work too. GM only made a few different steering boxes over the years, so almost any of them will work.

The things to watch out for are later in the 1970s they changed from standard to metric power steering line sizes. So something like the late model caprice box you mentioned will need either a kit converting the box to accept the standard hoses from your car or you will have to buy new hoses to fit the different fittings on the box. Also f-body cars (Camaro & Firebird) boxes are faster than your original box, but also have limits built into them to not allow the wheels to turn as tight. If you swap to a Camaro box without modifying the limits with the box, your car will have a much greater turning radius.

There are many articles (I think one of hot rod magazine people regularly quote) that talks all about the options of switching steering boxes in GM cars. I would recommend searching the internet as there's tons of articles on what your options are and the best way to do it.

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