[joes455]

Anyone make this combo in a non greeseable u joint?

[chuckies76ta]

All the ones I see are grease-able. Send Spicer an email..

[David Jones]

https://www.randysworldwide.com/shop...SABEgLRQvD_BwE

This?

[Formulajones]

The adapter joints are all going to be greasable. I just bought a 1350 to 1310 from our local driveline shop the other day. It's a Spicer part (all he carries) and has a grease fitting. He told me that's the only way the adapter joints come from Spicer. The solid joints will be one size.

Might be another brand out there that doesn't follow that scenario but the U-joint really isn't the weak link, greasable or not. It's the small yoke that's the weakest point.

[Formulas]

Is Lakewood still in bizz? Last solid adapter joint I bought was from them

[ta man]

I would just ante up for 1350 input and diff yokes. I like the positive retention of the 1350's vs the clip deal on the 3R's.

[Formulajones]

My problem here is the billet 1350 yoke I wanted from the local shop that does my driveshafts is out of stock. His supplier says 3 months maybe more. Rather than wait, because I needed to get the car off the lift, I bought the adapter joint for now, he had one.

I might be able to order one somewhere, but at this point I'm pretty sick of ordering crap and being told It'll be weeks or months. Took me 4 months to get a transmission, 6 months to get a controller, 2 months to get quarter panels, and 3 months to get outer wheel houses. Honestly I've pretty much had enough of ordering crap until this nonsense gets straightened out.

Okay back to the regular program

[ErikW]

Strange has them in stock. Fast shipping too. I always order the whole deal from them. Super high quality and reasonable prices.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

The adapter joints are all going to be greasable. I just bought a 1350 to 1310 from our local driveline shop the other day. It's a Spicer part (all he carries) and has a grease fitting. He told me that's the only way the adapter joints come from Spicer. The solid joints will be one size.

Might be another brand out there that doesn't follow that scenario but the U-joint really isn't the weak link, greasable or not. It's the small yoke that's the weakest point.

im about to buy a strange driveshaft with forged 1350 trans yoke & end & will go with a 1350-1310 U joint for the rear of my 72 8.5, good to hear the U joint isnt the weak point. i know going 1350 in the rear is the ideal way but being on a budget & not really wanting to change the pinion yoke to 1350 i think thats the best option for a 90% street car doing low 11's.

what rear is the 3R ujoint for? wish they made a solid 1350-1310 conversion U joint but strange said nobody makes a solid one due to whats involved with making a conversion U joint.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by 78w72

im about to buy a strange driveshaft with forged 1350 trans yoke & end & will go with a 1350-1310 U joint for the rear of my 72 8.5, good to hear the U joint isnt the weak point. i know going 1350 in the rear is the ideal way but being on a budget & not really wanting to change the pinion yoke to 1350 i think thats the best option for a 90% street car doing low 11's.

what rear is the 3R ujoint for? wish they made a solid 1350-1310 conversion U joint but strange said nobody makes a solid one due to whats involved with making a conversion U joint.

I like the solid joints too. I don't know what applications used the 3R specifically, but I know they are used in a yoke without centering tabs, since the 3R uses C-clips to center it, or injected plastic from the factory.

I was always worried about joints but the driveline shop has always told me it's almost always the little stock cast yoke that will fail before the joint will. Oddly I've been racing the car for 35 years with the stock driveshaft and stock yokes till now, and it goes 11.40's and weighs 4100 lbs. So that stock cast yoke on the rear has been through a lot. I'm probably just a little lucky I now have a billet front yoke with 1350's, and the shaft is made for 1350 out back. I'll put a good 1350 rear yoke in the car at some point later but for now the adapter joint got it off the lift and moving so I can finish other projects.
Dad has also been racing his car for decades with stock shaft and yokes. Never broke and also ran low 11's with various 455's. Now with a bigger engine right away I swapped in a larger shaft with 1350's and billet yokes, since I was doing a gear swap anyway it was a good time to do that. I really did not trust the stock stuff to last at his power level now.
If you take a close look at those stock cast rear yokes, especially for a 1310, they are pretty puny.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

I like the solid joints too. I don't know what applications used the 3R specifically, but I know they are used in a yoke without centering tabs, since the 3R uses C-clips to center it, or injected plastic from the factory.

I was always worried about joints but the driveline shop has always told me it's almost always the little stock cast yoke that will fail before the joint will. Oddly I've been racing the car for 35 years with the stock driveshaft and stock yokes till now, and it goes 11.40's and weighs 4100 lbs. So that stock cast yoke on the rear has been through a lot. I'm probably just a little lucky I now have a billet front yoke with 1350's, and the shaft is made for 1350 out back. I'll put a good 1350 rear yoke in the car at some point later but for now the adapter joint got it off the lift and moving so I can finish other projects.
Dad has also been racing his car for decades with stock shaft and yokes. Never broke and also ran low 11's with various 455's. Now with a bigger engine right away I swapped in a larger shaft with 1350's and billet yokes, since I was doing a gear swap anyway it was a good time to do that. I really did not trust the stock stuff to last at his power level now.
If you take a close look at those stock cast rear yokes, especially for a 1310, they are pretty puny.

yeah ive been running a stock D/S for a long time too, was in a mild 455 T/A i had back in the 90's that was abused but only a mid to high 12 second car on street tires. then moved it to my current 500+ 72 firebird that does low 11's on drag radials, figured its time to change to a real D/S if i try to go any faster. especially after seeing tamans broken shaft.

also something strange told me when i said i might change to a forged pinion down the road, is that the length of the D/S will change when going to a 1350 pinion yoke, so they suggest doing it now to avoid shortening the shaft or just stick with the conversion U joint. at my power level or even going into upper 10's they said the conversion should be fine & being its at the rear its not as important as the front for safety issues.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by 78w72

yeah ive been running a stock D/S for a long time too, was in a mild 455 T/A i had back in the 90's that was abused but only a mid to high 12 second car on street tires. then moved it to my current 500+ 72 firebird that does low 11's on drag radials, figured its time to change to a real D/S if i try to go any faster. especially after seeing tamans broken shaft.

also something strange told me when i said i might change to a forged pinion down the road, is that the length of the D/S will change when going to a 1350 pinion yoke, so they suggest doing it now to avoid shortening the shaft or just stick with the conversion U joint. at my power level or even going into upper 10's they said the conversion should be fine & being its at the rear its not as important as the front for safety issues.

That is true that the length of the driveshaft could change slightly with the rear yoke change and larger u-joint. It would be minuscule though. What I did was ordered my shaft with the 1350 solid joints, and measured for my length with the 1310 rear yoke in place. Then installed the rear adapter joint in the shaft. This might have made a pinch extra room when putting the shaft in place but it only pulled back an inch, maybe a pinch more, to the rear after being fully engaged in the trans. So it has plenty of engagement in the tail housing (yoke splines are 4" long. It might shorten a bit with a 1350 rear joint and yoke installed later but I still have plenty of wiggle room.

[ta man]

I think the yokes are very close on the measurements..I could measure the difference if interested?

[tooski]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

I like the solid joints too. I don't know what applications used the 3R specifically

My 75 FB 350/350 / 10 bolt came with the 3r's.

I had read somewhere that solid u-joints are a tech requirement for drag racing. I'm not sure if that requirement applies only if slicks are being used.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by ta man

I think the yokes are very close on the measurements..I could measure the difference if interested?

that would be great. strange felt it was enough of a difference to mention it & suggested i should decide now vs down the road... but then again the guy was trying to sell an additional forged pinion yoke.

so like FJ said, its probably not that much different between the 2 & the allowed slack for the yoke in the trans would allow for a slight difference. funny though when i asked what the acceptable in & out play is for the trans yoke, he said they dont go by that & use the dimensions they ask for when ordering a driveshaft, yet my local driveline shop & other driveline companies mention it as a way to verify the drive shaft length, think it was like .75-1" or something close to that.

[AG]

3R: width 3.625", cap diameter 1.125
1350 width 3.622, cap diameter 1.188

[78w72]

Originally Posted by AG

3R: width 3.625", cap diameter 1.125
1350 width 3.622, cap diameter 1.188

is that the Ujoint?

[AG]

Yes, dimensions of the 3R and 1350 U-joints. The 1350 is 0.063" larger in diameter than the 3R, or a 1/16".

[78w72]

ok thanks. i think the pinion yoke dimensions is what strange was saying was different but im sure both items need to be factored into the length.

[Formulajones]

The cap diameter difference of 1/16 or .062" would be half that affecting the length of the driveshaft. Basically of both yokes were the same, all else being equal, the length the larger 1350 cap would only be affecting the driveshaft length .031" or 1/32"

In other words it won't make enough difference to matter......... which is what I meant earlier.

What might be a player since there are several yokes on the market is whether the yoke length itself is drastically different from the original.

If TA Man took measurements between is stock and aftermarket yoke as far as length it could shed some light.

I have stock yokes here and a 1350 on dad's car but it would take some doing to get measurements, moving his car to the lift and then digging around the mezzanine for the spare stockers I have.