#41  
Old 10-28-2014, 06:47 AM
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Judge273 Judge273 is offline
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That's why survivor cars are more fun. That paint chip or rust spot is a "badge of honor". Faded paint is "patina". The stories you can make up, "got that dent at Woodstock".

Never have to worry if it rains at a show or anytime driving.

Heck, the rust gets more attention at a show then the recently completed garage restoration.

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  #42  
Old 10-28-2014, 07:29 AM
FunctionalShaker FunctionalShaker is offline
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2many, they were... That's why dealers would hit them with a coat of black paint underneath.

  #43  
Old 10-28-2014, 03:00 PM
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My first new car was a 78 T/A and I remember alot of the undercarriage had some signs of flash rust on it with only 25 miles on it....

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  #44  
Old 10-28-2014, 03:58 PM
transam1972 transam1972 is offline
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Default FLYS IN THE COSMOLINE

on E-BAY I just ordered a quart of Cosmoline for $25.00 with free ship...after looking at the photos of the 2 axles on this thread I really feel that there are 2 camps here..2 types of restoration..rust never sleeps and on some parts PONTIAC was not concerned if they surface rusted after the car rolled off the line..so for unpainted steel this is a great alternative to paint..I would prefer to smear my bolt heads,etc. with this stuff rather than paint..I also go with replacement new black phosphate hardware than painting the original bolts (front fenders)...but I can relate better to a 20k mile unrestored car than to a $100k plus dollar restoration most likely due to my limited skills, budget and goals..but I know what I like and how I would do something so when it comes down to how would I have wanted it finished I gotta go with Bills axle...it looks perfect, like brand new..so what if it has a Cosmoline protective coating...to maintain it if it ever gets a rust spot you take a wire wheel to it, not a spray can...the motif on that axle would work as a replacement on my car..the other style would not..trust me ,I am envious of others skills and if I could have my Lucerne blue 72 Trans Am be repainted I would want it done by 165TH


Last edited by transam1972; 10-28-2014 at 04:15 PM.
  #45  
Old 10-28-2014, 04:51 PM
ricks63 ricks63 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunas73TA View Post
I used quite a bit of eastwood's line of stuff as I was not trying to be 100% perfect and didn't want the hassles of rust appearing in a few years, so everything got something on it.
The "Spray Gray" was the closest to a cast iron look that I used on the rear and housing and spindles.



I found that this "cast iron" engine paint was the same shade but cheaper and I could buy it at the local store:



It just looks much lighter in these pics.



I agree i find the Eastwood products to be very good quality and easy to put down. I really don't see why anyone would clear coat it would not be the original finish anymore so why not just use a product that looks like a metal finish.

  #46  
Old 10-28-2014, 05:01 PM
FunctionalShaker FunctionalShaker is offline
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Based on all that's been said: it appears to me that if you have bare metal parts that are cast or have not needed blasting and have no pitting, cosmolene will work. If parts have pitting which will require a filler of some kind, then painting will be necessary. If the color of the metal has been changed by whatever the item was cleaned with -- in the case of blue/gray steel looking silver after blasting, then paint would be the way to go.

  #47  
Old 10-28-2014, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by transam1972 View Post
on E-BAY I just ordered a quart of Cosmoline for $25.00 with free ship...after looking at the photos of the 2 axles on this thread I really feel that there are 2 camps here..2 types of restoration..rust never sleeps and on some parts PONTIAC was not concerned if they surface rusted after the car rolled off the line..so for unpainted steel this is a great alternative to paint..I would prefer to smear my bolt heads,etc. with this stuff rather than paint..I also go with replacement new black phosphate hardware than painting the original bolts (front fenders)...but I can relate better to a 20k mile unrestored car than to a $100k plus dollar restoration most likely due to my limited skills, budget and goals..but I know what I like and how I would do something so when it comes down to how would I have wanted it finished I gotta go with Bills axle...it looks perfect, like brand new..so what if it has a Cosmoline protective coating...to maintain it if it ever gets a rust spot you take a wire wheel to it, not a spray can...the motif on that axle would work as a replacement on my car..the other style would not..trust me ,I am envious of others skills and if I could have my Lucerne blue 72 Trans Am be repainted I would want it done by 165TH
Please post a link to the eBay auction

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  #48  
Old 10-28-2014, 09:17 PM
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Probably this one...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=111493084222

  #49  
Old 10-29-2014, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S View Post
My first new car was a 78 T/A and I remember alot of the undercarriage had some signs of flash rust on it with only 25 miles on it....
They came off the trucks this way I know, I signed them in, signed the Bill of lading for them. Looked at many still on the trucks.. Lots of comments from other techs, LOOK no paint on the axle, etc... When we finally saw the rear disc brakes come in, we knew it would be trouble in New England.
Even middle 70's vettes were lacking in underbody coatings in many areas.
IF the buyers ever saw these when Brandy new this way, we would have lost some sales..
Many customers with trucks got the "Quaker koat" or an oil bath next door for the under side.
The "Quaker Koat", product of Quaker State, was put on over that "flash" rust and well, probably made it worse for some...

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  #50  
Old 10-29-2014, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Held for Ransom View Post
Thank you

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  #51  
Old 10-29-2014, 04:56 PM
transam1972 transam1972 is offline
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Default a new 1972 TRANS AM IN 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker View Post
Based on all that's been said: it appears to me that if you have bare metal parts that are cast or have not needed blasting and have no pitting, cosmolene will work. If parts have pitting which will require a filler of some kind, then painting will be necessary. If the color of the metal has been changed by whatever the item was cleaned with -- in the case of blue/gray steel looking silver after blasting, then paint would be the way to go.
..I definitely agree with you FUNCTIONAL SHAKER on that..a lot of time and effort goes into a part that someone else could not save to look brand new again...if I could some how magically have a brand new 1972 T/A today the first thing I would do is paint the front sway bar silver (to show it off) and to match the sales brochure..and if I did paint the rear axle and other underneath parts for protection it would be black..when we were young and our cars were new to us I think some of us must have thought differently as our TRANS AMs were not yet collector/museum pieces!..leaf springs and rear axles were most likely painted with a brush and a can of rustoleum!!...easier to maintain I feel for a driver...paint is a perfect way to protect bare steel..I can recall (on my older brothers advice) to shoot oil (kinda like a Tin Woodsman oil can) in my rear quarters behind the drop offs to slow down rust..but this was 1980 when it was a daily driver..of course he used to try (successful too) to freak out a 17 year old me and tell me my car was rusting from the inside out as though it would dissolve before my very eyes...I never did have to worry about rust after it was totaled.....

  #52  
Old 10-29-2014, 07:56 PM
70RAlll 70RAlll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Held for Ransom View Post
thats the same cosmo I use, buyer will be pleased once it arrives..great stuff..

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