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#21
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My story same issue in this order, soap on pulley, belt dressing, sent power steering pump out for rebuild and tried 3 different belts all cog. Bought a repro belt from Quanta Products, sold by our sponsor and problem solved. Yes, new fan clutch too. The repro one with holes not the cheesy one.
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#22
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DO NOT contaminate the belt with "belt dressing".
Spray it with WATER for diagnostics. The water will kill the squeal of a slipping belt (temporarily) but not damage the belt or leave residue. Air expands under vacuum. If you put 28 inches of vacuum on the system, and you don't suck out a bunch of fluid when the air bubble farther down expands...you don't have an air bubble in the system. There is no air. And LOOK at how the belt fits the groove. Aside from incorrect-width belts, I've seen worn V-groove pulleys where the "V" has eroded to a "U". No belt will work on that pulley. If this is a serpentine system, did the morons who designed it allow for sufficient belt-wrap on the PS pulley, water pump, alternator, etc? The "engineering" I see on aftermarket serpentine systems is terrible. IF (big IF) it turns out that the fan/fan clutch has too much drag on the water pump pulley, and there's plenty of belt wrap, maybe the air fins of the radiator or A/C condenser are folded-over or filled with dragonflies or sparrows. Fan works too hard pulling air through the rad. Last edited by Schurkey; 07-02-2022 at 01:24 AM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Schurkey For This Useful Post: | ||
#23
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I am sorry to hear the fan clutch did not solve the problem. However, I would continue down the same path by continuing to eliminate the potential cause of the noise. My next "Test" would be to drive the car without the power steering pump turning. Rig up the belt drive in a way that eliminates the PS pump. A shorter belt, or even no belt would be fine. You didn't mention if the car has AC. Ideally, you want the water pump, alternator and AC if equipped turning. Drive the car and see if the noise goes away. If no squealing noise, at least you know for sure it's in the PS system. Then we can go from there. Testing is the only way to solve these kinds of problems. BTW, with a fully charged battery you can drive the car for testing 10 minutes or so without the water pump or alternator turning. Just keep an eye on the temp gauge.
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#24
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if this noise shows up at 2300 RPM, you dont need to drive the car, just push the throttle by hand until it makes the noise at 2300rpm, then try & listen for where the noise is coming from to narrow it down. if you have a helper they can push the throttle while you listen around for the noise & even use a stethascope or long screw driver to put the end on each item like alt, p/s, water pump & hold the end to your ear, carefully.
as mentioned you can remove 1 belt at a time to see if the noise stops at 2300 rpm, or a short drive if the car needs to be moving for some reason to make the noise, but if its rpm specific you dont need to drive the car. also just an FYI, you didnt need to buy a new fan/clutch, (if thats what you did) could have just removed the fan & bolted the pulley down tight, then hit the 2300rpm & see if the noise is gone or changes. hops you can track it down! |
#25
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Quote:
I am also fighting the bubbles. I also have a sequel at 2500 - going straight. All new system. I went with their serpentine system.
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........I'm just learning as I go....... |
#26
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Yes finally, it took 3 pumps to get one that would bleed properly and run quiet.
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1971 Trans Am - Sold 1977 Can Am - Sold 2002 Trans Am Firehawk - Sold 2004 GTO - Sold 2006 GTO - Sold 1970 GTO - Sold 1972 Trans Am - Sold 1970 Trans Am - Current Project |
#27
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Quote:
Thanks. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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........I'm just learning as I go....... |
#28
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Glad the OP got his issue fixed. Just to contribute another cause for anyone reading this thread, several years ago I chased a "chirping" belt on a Tahoe with a 5.3. Replaced several belts and idler pullies before I noticed the PS pulley (which I had never removed or worked on) was out on the shaft about 1/4", making it not line up with the water pump pulley. The belt was slipping forward as it rolled across the water pump pulley, causing the chirp. (My clue should have been the letters wearing off the back side of the belt in just a few weeks after installing it.)
I used a pulley installation tool to run the pulley all the way in on the shaft and the chirp went away for good.
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Mike |
#29
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Have you squrted the fan belt yet? I use water applied with a garden hose. If thats too messy , a squirt bottle will do. Squeal will go away instant ly and return as the belt driys out.
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GOOD IDEAS ARE OFTEN FOUND ABANDONED IN THE DUST OF PROCRASTINATION |
The Following User Says Thank You to KEN CROCIE For This Useful Post: | ||
#30
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Dodge Trucks with the 318 and 360 were famous for belt chirping and the PS pulley not lining up properly. Usually took a Straight Edge to be sure the belt was straight. One tell tale sign was the worn area on the WP pulley would be wider than the belt.
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1968 Firebird 400 RAII M21, 3.31 12 bolt, Mayfair Maize. 1977 Trans Am W72 400, TH350, 3.23 T Top Everyone you will ever meet knows something you don't. Bill Nye. |
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