[Chris65LeMans]

We are very close to firing up the LeMans with the new engine:



We're having an issue setting up the clutch. I'm paying a mechanic to install the engine and new clutch, etc, since it's out of my skill-set.

The clutch/pressure plate is a McLeod Racing 75321. It takes considerable pressure to work the clutch but - more concerning - the clutch only has two or three inches of travel. Mechanic thinks it's a hardware issue, but I'm pretty sure the thing isn't set up right.

One of the clutch rods was lost somewhere in this old engine removal/new engine installed process, so the mechanic had to order a new one. Perhaps he got the wrong one?

Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

We did find an oil filter that fits. I don't know which one it is, but I'll find out and post that to "close out" that old thread.

[Scott65]

Hopefully someone here can give you a measurement and a pic of a correct version for comparison.

[tom s]

Let me know how you like that clutch disc when you get it in.I HATED it.Tom

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by tom s

Let me know how you like that clutch disc when you get it in.I HATED it.Tom

I agree. Great on a race car. On a street car, not great. Great at holding power, but hard pedal effort, sore leg, and harsh operation will be the order of the day.

[FrankieT/A]

Make sure you have the right throw out bearing should be the long one.

[Chris65LeMans]

The answer to most of the questions I’ve gotten in PMs is “I don’t know”. I am using a Lakewood bell housing.

[AG]

Is your clutch pedal all the way up and does it go to the floor when you depress the pedal? You need to check the geometry and also the movement of the lower arm against the clutch fork to ensure there isn't any interference. What kind of pressure plate is it?

[Chris65LeMans]

Clutch pedal is all the way up. It does not go all the way to the floor - there’s only 2-3 inches of travel. Pressure plate is a McLeod part # 75321

[AG]

2-3" of travel should be plenty. All you need is a 1/4" to disengage.

[Chris65LeMans]

Huh. I’ve never seen a clutch that didn’t go to the floor. I guess we’ll have to see how it drives once we can fire it up. Thanks!

[chuckies76ta]

I don't think that's what AG meant. It only does take like 1/4" to disengage a clutch, but the pedal can travel from resting place to the floor for that operation. It seems to me that your mechanical rod might be too long. I've only dealt with the setup on a 76 T/A mechanical and now have a hydraulic setup. My rod from the Z bar was adjustable. It looks like you have the Z bar and should have an adjustable rod to adjust travel. The throw out bearings get installed on the fork a certain way also. Like was mentioned, there are different length bearings. One other thing to be aware of is the bolts on the flywheel don't come in contact with the clutch disk. Some ARP bolt heads hit the clutch disk.

[65gto69]

I am not sure if this will help you and maybe you already know this but you state you are using a lakewood bellhousing, if that is the case I am pretty sure you need an adjustable ball stud that your clutch fork attaches to inside the bellhousing. If you have the stock ball stud in place, this may be some of your pedal travel problem.

Mark

[FrankieT/A]

Originally Posted by Chris65LeMans

Huh. I’ve never seen a clutch that didn’t go to the floor. I guess we’ll have to see how it drives once we can fire it up. Thanks!

The bell housing should make no difference. It is made to the same specs as an original. The adjustable ball feature is nice for dialing in unless its adjusted all whack.

You need to first determine if you have the correct throw-out bearing.

Starting the car is NOT going to correct anything...

[AG]

Check the orientation of the fork coming out of the bellhousing. the end of the arm should be slightly forward at rest, then swing through the 90 degree position and end with it pointing slightly to the rear. I went through this with my brother's car converting it to a manual with a Ram Powergrip clutch, it was a hard pedal and it wouldn't go to the floor. We got an adjustable ball which solved the problem.

[OG68]

Originally Posted by AG

Check the orientation of the fork coming out of the bellhousing. the end of the arm should be slightly forward at rest, then swing through the 90 degree position and end with it pointing slightly to the rear. I went through this with my brother's car converting it to a manual with a Ram Powergrip clutch, it was a hard pedal and it wouldn't go to the floor. We got an adjustable ball which solved the problem.

As mentioned above

[Chris65LeMans]

Okay - I have an update. I'm not getting the pedal travel I'm expecting because the throwout bearing fork is contacting the Lakewood bellhousing.

Does anyone know a part # that will fit?

[chuckies76ta]

I don’t have any part numbers for you just a comment
Do you know if you have the correct throw out bearing and clutch fork for you application?
If so you may need an adjustable ball for the fork to align things better. It allows you to move the clutch fork closer to the pressure plate.

[Chris65LeMans]

Okay, we took a look at my old bell housing, and it had an adjustable ball in it!

Good thing, too - all the parts sites are sold out of the damn things.

Also - it turns out the Z bar was contacting the edge of the Lakewood Bell housing. A bit of grinding will take care of that.

Then... we should be all set. The mechanic drove the car to get the exhaust finished, so it's running. Hoping to drive it tomorrow.

Thanks, all!

[FrankieT/A]

Somethings wrong...

[will slow gto]

Have you driven it yet? What’s the verdict?