[redhawk44]

Originally Posted by Dave O

got my Rare manifolds installed on engine and installed engine in car, went to install pypes down pipes I ordered from Summit and need to know if anyone has had to grind a notch for the bolts to fit where the pipes go against the manifold?

Looks like I will have to grind a small notch in the flare of the pipe before the bolt will go thru the flange and screw into the manifold.
Is this normal? Really hate to mess up the pipes, because it looks like there is not a lot of flange to fit against the flare on the manifold.

Also noticed the starter solenoid is extremely close to the manifold, any hot starting problems with these manifolds?

Anyone else had this problem?
Thanks!!

Hey Dave O,

I had forgotten this thread until I saw you post today. I have installed and ran my RARE manifolds for about 350-400 mile last fall with out any issues. They look good and perform. My main reason for running them is I was tired of headers leaking and how low they sat under the car. The guy at the dyno made a few remarks while setting up to dyno it but may have changed his mind afterwards.
As far as your problem, I bought the complete exhaust from RARE and had "No Issues" . From what I understand if you cut a notch in the flared part of that down pipe , I'm not sure you will ever get it to seal. If it doesn't fit get a set from RARE and you will be happy. Summit has a good return policy. I have had no problems with my starter getting too hot, might be an issue in a parade where your barely moving.

[1967Tempest]

I bought them for the 67 Tempest stick car. Zero issue going in. Didnt have to raise the engine or make a special wrench. Just works..

https://youtu.be/Z57kGB-mI54

[Scarebird]

yes, a small amount.

[Dave O]

Just got an email reply from Pypes concerning installation of the down pipes we are discussing in this thread.


Hello. You do not grind a notch. What you do is get an 4" angle grinder and smooth down the flare a little and fit it onto the manifold. You have to shorten the length of the flare some, a normal procedure to ensure a good fit. After you get it past the studs, you are ready to see if you have a seal. Take a black magic marker and color the inside of the pipe flare where the manifold touches. Put the pipe flanges onto the pipe and tighten the pipe but not too tight. Grab the end of the pipe and wiggle it making sure it moves a little. Remove the pipe and look for a shiny spot on the black colored area. This is good... that means the pipe is touching there. The spots where it is not shiny, you have to smooth down the flare a little more, so the manifold will seal. Do this a little at a time so you do not go too far.

Hope that helps...

[MD79TA]

Dave I also bought down pipe from RARE and had local shop run 2 1/2 all the way to back. I think the down pipes mandrel bent were 100 dollars great tight fit. Sounds great and the best part is the clearance you get under your car. The down pipe are very important part to get the best flow. I still have the article comparing all to headers and down pipes if anyone interested . Doug

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by MD79TA

I still have the article comparing all to headers and down pipes if anyone interested . Doug

Im interested.

[MD79TA]

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hppp-...-vs-manifolds/

[MD79TA]

Let me know if that link worked . Doug

[1967Tempest]

Yup all good.