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Old 06-04-2020, 04:03 PM
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Default Advise on Rear Window Channel

Hi all,

Hoping to tap into the collective expertise here on how this rear window channel should be repaired. I don't have much trust in the local talent in San Diego so would like to go in armed with good info.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRGTcNSw8oo

Thanks!

p.s. - If anyone knows a shop in San Diego that could fix this, I'd appreciate a heads-up.

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  #2  
Old 06-04-2020, 04:28 PM
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Can't help you with a shop but if you can use these parts they're looking for a home.

Center section was from PY, corner fillers were from an Ebay vendor recommended on here. Were for a '72 LeMans that never got done. Total was about $130.00 4-5 years ago.

FYI when the corners came in I checked them against the stainless for fit - curves were spot on. Obviously not everything you need but a start.

Mark O.
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Old 06-05-2020, 02:03 AM
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Not an expert either but...I'd start by jumping on the offer by stags above. Those rusted out areas around the trim studs need to be very strong so new metal is best there, IMHO. What he's got there will fix most of the lower portions that need repair without a bunch of welding in small patches at every stud or fabricating one long piece with an "L" bend in it and having that long weld bead for the full width of the opening..
As for the rest, it doesn't look all that bad and I think you are right about that 'trim' piece in the center of the package tray. Looks like you could sand it and refinish that...but on second look, I think that may be part of the patch panel above so it may solve that problem also. You will need to replace the trim studs with either weld in studs or the screw in replacement studs from our host.
They are very strong if the metal you drive them into is solid. I dip the screws in epoxy primer, let them dry and dip the threads in JB Weld right before I drive them in. Make the holes just large enough for the tip of the screw to get a good bite, then drive them in to the hilt.

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Old 06-05-2020, 02:19 AM
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Thanks guys. So are you saying that whole piece between the rear window and trunk opening needs to be replaced?

Or would the patch panel be cut up to just went in a portion along the channel itself?

I had dramatically more optimistic hopes that the hole could just be welded up and the other rust sanded down or otherwise removed. (e.g. no patch panel needed).

p.s. - will the 72 panel work with '69?

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Last edited by getmygoat; 06-05-2020 at 02:26 AM.
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Old 06-05-2020, 03:06 AM
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Again, I'm no expert so take it for what it's worth...I wouldn't say that you have to replace it but I would. There was a time that I would have patched it piecemeal but I've done that a few times and prefer to avoid it nowadays if at all possible.
Back glass is the same for '68-'72 so I would think that the panel would fit.

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Old 06-05-2020, 09:22 AM
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I should add I'm not looking for full cost on the parts at all. More just want them out of the garage to a good home. Just shipping cost if you want them. Current catalog lists the filler panel as 68-72 #L174K for $99.00

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Old 06-05-2020, 10:37 AM
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We recently replaced the same panel on a fellow member's '70 GTO. I'm including a few pictures that show what corrections had to be made for it to match the contours of the quarters. The new panel is flat, and the quarters are curved. You'll see some 2 piece fabricated patch panels in the window corners. Those were made to match the shape of the original rear panel that was too rusted to keep.After these hand made patches were tacked in place, the rotted rear panel was taken out. Eventually everything was welded in solid.
First off, the angle of the end flanges were slightly off and it wouldn't butt up. A cut was made about 3/8" from the ends and the cut off sections were clamped onto the car. They were too straight so some curve was worked into them. Then the panel was laid in place and arched near the ends with the palm of a hand to match the rest of the curvature of the body. The main section was then welded to the ends only! Before welding in the the new panel to the body, the trunk lid was put back on and aligned to the quarters so that all of the gaps will be correct. The new rear window trim was also used to be sure the panel aligned to the new corners correctly.
I realize all of this might look intimidating, but your car really does need the panel replaced or you will have to chase rust problems again in the near future. You cannot sand away all of the rust you're looking at and a coating isn't going to fix your problem either.
Just my 2 cents.
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  #8  
Old 06-05-2020, 11:25 AM
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Thanks all. These cars - they are always a big deal :-)

Is sandblasting this area to remove the rust a possibility? (Sorry grasping at straws).

How many hours do you estimate a body shop will need to do the replacement correctly?

I was hoping to preserve the original paint of this car. I thought if we could just weld up the hole it would be minimal damage to the paint and I could live with it. But if this whole panel needs to be replaced, and then there's a bunch of filler/body work to integrate it also, the original paint scheme starts to become less tenable.

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Old 06-05-2020, 11:52 AM
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I'm not a body guy, but I'll echo what others are suggesting in that if you want to do it "right", you should probably replace the whole panel. Usually the way it goes with this area is that once you scratch the surface, you find more rust below that you'll want to address. I'd wager that the metal is very thin even in areas where you don't have holes, which makes welding in patches pretty difficult. I bet the under-tray substructure is also really rusty on the inside where you can't see, too.

It's certainly a difficult pill to swallow, but on something as special as a Judge, I'd take the long road and do it right.

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Old 06-06-2020, 09:42 PM
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You may want to check with Belden Speed. There are doing a lot of parts like this. http://www.beldenspeed.com/

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Old 06-07-2020, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrazy View Post
You may want to check with Belden Speed. There are doing a lot of parts like this. http://www.beldenspeed.com/
I was going to mention them, but I couldn't remember the name. I ordered some rear glass channel patches for my 66 from them a few years ago. I haven't used them yet but they look nice.

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

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Old 06-07-2020, 03:13 PM
PontiacJim1959 PontiacJim1959 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrazy View Post
You may want to check with Belden Speed. There are doing a lot of parts like this. http://www.beldenspeed.com/
X2. Just ordered the repair pieces for the front windshield at the top. They have more repair panels for the rear window than front. I have to do my entire front windshield as it is bad all around. I could have fabricated them, but thought it might save a little of my time. The side posts are basically flat, so I'll do those and I have the re-pop lower windshield channel already that needs to be fitted and welded in.

You just have to email them and they will return your email in short order and with quote on parts. They also offer the molding clips and fasteners if needed. I had my pieces shipped USPS so a little cheaper than UPS or Fed-Ex. I used PayPal so it was an easy/fast purchase.

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Old 06-08-2020, 12:02 PM
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Default Thanks all!

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I believe my first step is to get the channel basted, so I can see what's really going on. I don't really want to replace that whole back panel since I am trying to keep the car in original paint for now. I assume that within the next 10 years I will have the car painted, but in So Cal this is virtually impossible. I just received an estimate of $55k to paint the car. I had another guy immediately tell me there was no way to get paint to stick to the endura. So much for those two shops.

So the plan would be to maintain the car as much as possible until we perhaps move out of Cali or I ship the car to one of the GTO painting experts in the mid west. For now I just need to make the car watertight and preserve that rear channel in a reasonable manner.

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Old 06-10-2020, 09:27 PM
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Put a replacement channel in the back.
I got one and put it in my 64. Fit was very good.

I even used lead in the seams just for bragging rights.

I had zero issues with fit.

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Old 06-10-2020, 09:27 PM
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Start looking for a paint shop in Arizona

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Old 06-10-2020, 09:49 PM
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ZeGermanHam ZeGermanHam is offline
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Or just another painter in Cali. It does not cost $55k to paint a car in CA unless you are doing an ultra custom job that has to meet the absolute highest standards, wildly beyond factory quality. I'm up in Seattle, which has pretty much the same cost of living and environmental considerations as SoCal, and extremely nice paint work for a complete bare metal car is in the $15-25k range here. Less if you just want driver quality. I suspect OP's quote of $55k was the complete cost to completely restore everything on his car and not the paintwork alone.

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Old 06-10-2020, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam View Post
I suspect OP's quote of $55k was the complete cost to completely restore everything on his car and not the paintwork alone.
You would think, but that wasn't the case. That was a good paint job where they pull the interior out of it, glass out of it, etc.. but did not include any mechanical restoration (already done) or interior restoration.

I don't think the guy wanted or needed the business. I received a quote of $40k to paint the car from So Cal restorations, which is the preeminent place here in San Diego.

The good paint shops here, of which there are few, are so backed up, they just keep raising their prices until their backlog reaches some reasonable time frame.

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  #18  
Old 06-30-2020, 09:12 AM
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Benny's Auto Body on university ave. in San Diego.

If the old man is still there (Benny himself) and his right hand man Julian- then you'll be in good hands. They do good work, stay on track and keep the price reasonable.

They painted quite a few cars that I've seen in person and they all looked great!

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Old 07-02-2020, 07:38 AM
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Correction: not Julien- it's Adrian.

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