[Bull]

Hopefully, the foundation for my new barn will be poured this week.

What do I need to do to ensure easy routing of electric, cable/internet lines, and a water supply line into the building? I'm assuming there will be some type of sleeve going through the frost wall, but how many and of what size given what I want to run? In addition to the water supply line, I would like to leave open the option of connecting to the sewer at a future date if money allows.

Thanks in advance.

[sdbob]

If we had to plan a hole (I've had to chisel thru 24" of concrete with a hammer and chisel). sewer- 6" plastic sleeve,that will allow a 4" plastic sewer line. Gas and water,1 1/2" plastic or steel pipe sleeve.You could use 2" sleeves for more room.I've never had to do electric lines in new bldg's. Cement the sleeve in place and after installation of line seal with some type of chaulking that won't deterioate.I want something that is flexible. Check with local codes for depth of sleeves. I also like a anti back up valve in the sewer line.This will in the event of a clog (or excess rain runoff)in the main line from all that sewage getting in your basement.The ones I installed are easy to clean. Just my exp. Bob

[Dontiac]

As a part time electrician I've had to do this once. Duct tape closed the ends of a piece of conduit bigger than the one you want to run your services thru and put it at the bottom of your foundation trench. Then after it's poured you dig down and run your conduit thru it and seal it. The length should be a foot past where the concrete will be on each side. Mark or measure where you put them so you can find it later. I was running 2" PVC for electric service and one each 1" PVC for phone/cable and lighting wiring so in the foundation I laid one 3" PVC sleeve and two 2" PVC sleeves. Leave at least 6"-12" between them so there's not a big void in the concrete. The city electric inspector signed off on mine but the city plumbing inspector made the plumber bury his deeper so that it went competly under the foundation. What the difference was I'm not sure but each inspector has a lot of leeway to have things his way so you may want to check with a local pro with experiance in your area. Your codes may be tougher there since you have more winter than Kansas.
Good Luck!

[Deadhead]

Assuming you are concrete or block with this question. With electrical it all depends upon where and how many your panel(s) will be. 2-2 1/2" is most likely the size you will use. If for some reason you come up through the floor, you will want to have a 90* swoop on there to come up through the floor just inside your wall under the panel location. It will have to be continuous pipe if you do it like this using individual 4/0 or other size cables. Your best idea would be to have an oversized sleeve in the wall at the knock-out location and run back to back from your meterbase location directly into the back of your panel. That way you can run your SE or SER cable.

If you do not have concrete or block walls just keep your electrical all above the concrete & avoid all the hassle of dealing with it. Most important is to know that if you start with pipe & use individual wires you will have to go all the way from the meter to the panel in pipe. That and leave enough sticking out to get your fittings on. No tight bends & not more than 2 90* turns. Don't try to fish the bundled SE or SER cable through any significant length of pipe.

[Bull]

Do you need to run the conduit through the foundation? Can you also just run it up along the outside of the frost wall, to above grade, then run it through the side of the building?

[Dontiac]

Sure can for the electric and the gas. Water & sewer would be a different ball game though.

[dreamingmuscle]

Plan and put all water related stuff in now before the slab or frost wall is poured. It's a big pain in the ass to do later and will cost you thousand fold to do later. PVC plumbing is not that expensive. Plan where you want it, dig the trench's for it and put it in. Even if it's not connected to the final hook ups. It's there and you don't have to bust up the slab later.

I believe it is code that there can be no PVC or copper water supply connections elbows or T's under the slab. It has to be one run of flexible copper.

[Formulabruce]

Dave, I just did this, you telling the town your doing all this?? when inspection time comes you dont want rework.
the electric needs to be in gray conduit (3" is good) and schedule #40 anywhere above ground, WITH the frost couplers at both ends where it comes out of the ground. you can run schedule 80 underground to save some money but its got to be down like 2 feet ( each town is different and under a drive is different) sand on bottom of trench, and usually trench and whole run is inspected before you bury it ( cost around 250 bucks for 80 feet all glued) use the inspection covers at above ground elbows to pull wire. If this has its own power from pole youll need to ground the lower "sweeps" where conduit turns to horizontal.
Bring it up to side of barn, 3 inch hole and glue a collar on inside to hold the frost coupler on side of building. need like 2 feet to install frost coupler so it has the required motion ( mine moved less than 1/2 inch though last winter)
my 2 cents on the rework done for the code enforcement. PM me if you want more info

[sdx455]

I just stubbed mine in 1''1/2 pvc conduit for electric 3/4 '' water and 4'' sewer . back 4'' from edge of slab .making sure not to put in a stud location . They put black tar on the pipes around were the concrete will be so the pipes can move independant of the slab .Theres more to the sewer line if a toliet is installed you need the vent and to have the drain in the right spot.

[Bull]

[QUOTE=Formulabruce]Dave, I just did this, you telling the town your doing all this?? when inspection time comes you dont want rework.
QUOTE]

Yeah, permits will be pulled for all work. I don't want any trouble down the line, as you say!