OHC-6 TECH Over Head Cam projects, questions and advice.

          
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  #21  
Old 01-15-2013, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cammer-6 View Post
problem lies in design,throwing oil up thru the screen at high RPMs
I've read just leaving the screen out makes this even worse. Did they make any changes 66-69?

  #22  
Old 01-15-2013, 08:39 PM
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stuff a copper scrubby in

wrap a wire around it so it wont fall down in

no changes except the cap/breather
it went from 49 states open in 66,67
to CCV in 68
66,67 Calif only was CCV

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  #23  
Old 01-16-2013, 11:49 AM
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Noted. Thanks for the information.

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  #24  
Old 01-16-2013, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by barrierblue66 View Post
Great progress! It's gonna be a beeautiful color
Thanks Barrier blue is my favorite color on these years.

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Originally Posted by TheSilverBuick View Post
Noted. Thanks for the information.
Im going to do the same.

  #25  
Old 01-27-2013, 09:49 AM
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Few pics of the intake and ex man so far. Still looking for the throttle cable bracket it's the last piece I need.
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  #26  
Old 01-27-2013, 10:58 AM
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Few pics of the intake and ex man so far. Still looking for the throttle cable bracket it's the last piece I need.
Looks awesome! What did you do to finish the exhaust manifold?

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  #27  
Old 01-27-2013, 11:19 AM
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Looks awesome! What did you do to finish the exhaust manifold?
Bead blasted then I used POR-15 Manifold grey applied with a sponge brush dries great with no brush marks.

  #28  
Old 01-27-2013, 12:18 PM
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Bead blasted then I used POR-15 Manifold grey applied with a sponge brush dries great with no brush marks.
Years ago I went to a friends shop and saw a 60s T bird he was just finishing for a customer.
I asked what was on the manifolds and he said"nothing".
I asked how they remained so new looking,yet obviously the motor had been run for breakin and after all this is Fla we live in so humidity is always present.
His explanation was this:
Blast until clean,do not touch with bare hands
coat or dip in fresh clean motor oil and continue to coat until cast iron doesnt soak up any more(this may take a week or so)
fire motor up,or use BBQ grille or shop oven
at the first sign of smoke shut it down and let cool,repeat and continue to remove from heat until all the oil is burned in.
This is basically the same process as seasoning a cast iron skillet. Touch up later if needed
until the oil is soaked in to the cast iron.

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  #29  
Old 01-31-2013, 10:08 PM
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Not a whole lot going on right now. Working on the upper/lower control arms removing the ball joints and bushings then off to the blaster.

  #30  
Old 02-15-2013, 07:31 PM
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Painted the top of the firewall with PPG base/clear with the correct amount of overspray into the black. Blended the base into the factory blue on the sides of the firewall and then cleared. Color is very close to Barrier blue.

Still waiting for the parts from the blaster and my front end rebuild kit.
Going to install the heater box,stainless front brake lines,brake booster tommorow.
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  #31  
Old 02-15-2013, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpp View Post
Painted the top of the firewall with PPG base/clear with the correct amount of overspray into the black. Blended the base into the factory blue on the sides of the firewall and then cleared. Color is very close to Barrier blue.

Still waiting for the parts from the blaster and my front end rebuild kit.
Going to install the heater box,stainless front brake lines,brake booster tommorow.
Sure does look the same. Nice work, looks great!

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  #32  
Old 02-16-2013, 03:06 PM
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Installed the firewall insulation,heater box,core and brake booster. Was going to install the new brake lines but they aren't even close to being right. Have to find out what the deal is.
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Last edited by hpp; 02-16-2013 at 03:45 PM.
  #33  
Old 02-19-2013, 07:44 PM
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I ordered a 3 piece brake line kit from Ames they get the lines from Right stuff. The lines were not correct they are listed for my application power drum brakes but as seen in the pics they are different. I called right stuff and am returning the lines with my orig ones and they are duplicating mine. Only orig line I dont have is the one from the master cyl to the prop valve.

Third pic shows the line for the master cyl it's not corect either. So im not sure what they sent me.
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  #34  
Old 02-19-2013, 11:06 PM
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Cammer, that oil trick does work great. When the sick 389 was in my GTO and blowing oil out the breather cap on the valve cover, the exhaust manifold looked like it was brand new. No rust or crud on it at all. I've got to do the oil trick with the manifolds on this 400 cause they look like crap.

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  #35  
Old 03-01-2013, 02:44 PM
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I pressed the new bushings in and installed the lower ball joints then painted the control arms. Starting to assy the front suspension I have to grab the spring compressor from work tommorow.
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  #36  
Old 03-01-2013, 10:30 PM
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ha real men dont need a stinkin spring compressor.
I know someone that thought that and a spring got away from him, landed on roof of neighbors house!

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  #37  
Old 03-01-2013, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Cammer-6 View Post
ha real men dont need a stinkin spring compressor.
I know someone that thought that and a spring got away from him, landed on roof of neighbors house!
That's funny

  #38  
Old 03-09-2013, 09:05 AM
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Installed the front springs and got the car back on the ground finally able to push it out of the garage and blow everything out and get things cleaned up. Last pic shows the spring compressed to be installed I have to say I was a little nervous.
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  #39  
Old 03-12-2013, 11:07 AM
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Springs always make me nervous.

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  #40  
Old 03-12-2013, 11:18 AM
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Installed the front springs and got the car back on the ground finally able to push it out of the garage and blow everything out and get things cleaned up. Last pic shows the spring compressed to be installed I have to say I was a little nervous.
Looks like my front end - about 20 years ago when I did it The compressor I used had hooks, and I remember handling very carefully.

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