[474injun]

It seems to me that there was a bolt in A to G body rear end bolt kit from Southside Machine or lakewood. I am currently running a fairly strong 474 Pontiac in a 1978 Grand Lemans and I fear the 3.73 7.5 10 bolt is not going to cut the mustard much longer, I would like to hear from anyone who has done this or knows if the parts are even available anymore. Thanks gents.

[jeffgoss]

Take a look over at www.Maliburacing.com.

Several companies make the conversion kit.

I just happen to have a 9" housing and Moser axles (31 spline) for a direct bolt in for a g-body. I also live in the same town as you. I could also use a 10 bolt 3.73-if it's a posi.

If you might be interested in a trade, let me know.

Jeff

[474injun]

It is not a posi it is a chevy s-10 carrier that is the right series for the 3.73 gears stuck into the original 10 bolt it was set up by a local shop and I re installed it in the car, I left it open so as to lose traction rather than a rear end, sort of a band aid for a gunshot wound, but it keeps me on the road. I may be interested in trading tho, how complete is your set up?

[jeffgoss]

Sorry, I'm only interested in a posi rear. I have a 79 Malibu wagon that I got in a trade deal-it came with the Moser 9" housing and 31 spline axles not installed.

I would sell them for $550. You would need a center section and brakes.


Jeff

[474injun]

I would be really interested in purchasing your housing and axles outright, I dont have a lot in trading stock aside from some chevy parts and a set of pontiac 670 heads and some 6x heads. Lets make some effort to get in touch since we are local and both own G bodies could be mutually beneficial.

[jeffgoss]

pm replied.

[cooke]

Originally Posted by 474injun

It seems to me that there was a bolt in A to G body rear end bolt kit from Southside Machine or lakewood. I am currently running a fairly strong 474 Pontiac in a 1978 Grand Lemans and I fear the 3.73 7.5 10 bolt is not going to cut the mustard much longer, I would like to hear from anyone who has done this or knows if the parts are even available anymore. Thanks gents.

I think that Southside Machine has "dropped" their "conversion" arms. I've heard that JEGS now offers them in their own brand. "Iceman"; a sponsor of Maliburacing offers a "conversion" upper control arm that does what your wanting to do. I have them on my Lemans. They run $120.00 plus shipping (that was 4 years ago). That is all that is needed to do the swap as far as that stuff goes. If your going to run 15 X 8 wheels you'll need a wheel with 5.5 BS. I run a 15 X 10 on my Lemans with 6.5 BS. If you go with the 8" wheel on the 68' - 72' A- Body rear; you'll need to grind the corner off the shock bracket and maybe "round" the head off of the shock bolt itself.
The G-Body emergency brake cables will also reach back; but you'll have to spread the serated fins out a little further to keep them in the backing plates. FWIW; I used the 8.5 10 bolt out of a 72' Olds Cutlass. I'm not sure how much longer or shorter it is than a 12-bolt chevy; but I shortened my drive shaft about 3/4" if I remember correctly. It could have worked; but it was a little too "tight" for my liking.
FWIW; the 68-72 A-body will bolt in with no "conversion" arms at all. BUt you'll have to "force" them in with an impact (the upper control arm bolts)). I've seen it done and watched the cars go some mid 1.50 60 ft. But you can tell that they're in a slight bind.
Hope this helps.

[shotgun]

My GP had a 12 bolt with SSM bars (which I could sell ya,the bars that is).
Went fully adjustible and cooke nailed it,6.5 bs on the wheels.
Also have a shortened 12 bolt housing that could work for you.

[RandyW]

For what it's worth, in 1980 I bolted a Chevelle 12 bolt 3.08 in my '78 El Camino SS that had a 2.56 7.5. I didn't change or modify a thing and did it by myself in my drive way in about 4 hours. Never had a problem.

[cooke]

Originally Posted by RandyW

For what it's worth, in 1980 I bolted a Chevelle 12 bolt 3.08 in my '78 El Camino SS that had a 2.56 7.5. I didn't change or modify a thing and did it by myself in my drive way in about 4 hours. Never had a problem.

Exactly. I think too many people try to make this hard. Several local guys have done this swap for years around here in Malibu's and Regals. Like I had mentioned earlier; I 've seen some of my buddy's go mid 11's with 1.50ish 60 ft, using all stock upper and lower control arms. The key is getting the right off-set wheels. Which usually turn out to be Weld or Cragar "Drag-lites" or the "Drag Stars". Both wheel companys offer several different off-sets.
With 12-bolts getting harder to find and more expensive; the 8.5' 10-bolts out of the 71'-72 A-bodies (BOP only; chevy used the weaker 8.20's in their A-bodies) are an excellent choice for the swap and IMO are just as strong as the 12-bolts. Plus; they have the factory "retainer plates" instead of C-clips like their chevy counterparts. And any 8.5" limited slip unit from the early 70's to the early 80's will work in them. The gears in my Lemans are some used ones I robbed out of an 80"s something Suburban. They are 3.73's. I've been a best of 1.30 on them so far; with no problems.

[jeffgoss]

Don't you have to pull the upper control arms in a weird angle to get the 10 or 12 bolt to fit?

I have a 10 bolt 3.55 BOP rearend, but thought it wasn't a direct bolt in-hence the need for the conversion arms.

Jeff

[cooke]

Originally Posted by jeffgoss

Don't you have to pull the upper control arms in a weird angle to get the 10 or 12 bolt to fit?

I have a 10 bolt 3.55 BOP rearend, but thought it wasn't a direct bolt in-hence the need for the conversion arms.

Jeff

If it's out of a 64' - 72' A-Body; it will bolt in. BUT; the angle on the upper control arms is slightly different than the G-Body angle. But it is so slight; that most people don't bother with "conversion" arms. It will bolt right in; especially if it still has the original or even aftermarket bushings. Usually put your LCA bolts in and then jack up the rear until your UCA's will reach down on to the 'ears" and then use an impact to persuade them right through.
On my car; I was trying to get the suspension as "free" as possible for weight transfer purposes, so I went with the "Iceman" "12-bolt conversion" UCA's. They work flawlessly and make the swap simple; with no forcing or "leveraging" the bolts at all.
Like I mentioned earlier; if you run a "deep" off-set wheel. you'll probably get to grind a little on your lower shock bolt. Mine hit on my "rim-screws". And just barely.
Here's kind of a rule of thumb for wheels:
1964 - 1967 A body rear in a G-body car if using an 8" wheel will need 4.5 BS.
1968 - 1972 A body rear in a G-body car if using an 8" wheel will need 5.5 BS.
Depending on some of the variance in the G-body wheel wells; a 1/4" spacer may or may not be needed. If it's needed at all' it's usually only one one side. If seen Malibu's use them on the passenger side.
And in all of my dealings; they need some massaging in the rear of the wheel well, right above the frame.

[jeffgoss]

Thanks Cooke!

I have a 79 Wagon. The 3.55 posi came out of my 68 Lemans. I broke the spiders in the posi and went to a 12 bolt. I fixed the posi and it sat.

Sold the Lemans, but still have the rear. It is a 1967 Pontiac rear. Sounds like it will be going into the Wagon sometime soon.

I appreciate the info!

Jeff

[shotgun]

Gotta say the, BFH/impact hammer just does sit right with me.

Proper uppers are cheap new or used.

I have worked on some "interesting" set ups customer have come up with, they all ended up being done right later.

One car used abody upper arms to install the rear. Made them work by drilling holes further in on the arms for the upper bushing!

The car would lean into a turn and stay that way do to bind.

When I got to it,the bolts were pulling threw and so mangled we used the hot wrench to get them off the car.

Spend a few bucks, you and the guy in the next lane will be happier.

[RandyW]

Originally Posted by shotgun

Gotta say the, BFH/impact hammer just does sit right with me.

Proper uppers are cheap new or used.

I have worked on some "interesting" set ups customer have come up with, they all ended up being done right later.

One car used abody upper arms to install the rear. Made them work by drilling holes further in on the arms for the upper bushing!

The car would lean into a turn and stay that way do to bind.

When I got to it,the bolts were pulling threw and so mangled we used the hot wrench to get them off the car.

Spend a few bucks, you and the guy in the next lane will be happier.

Mine had ZERO binding and worked perfectly, Use your control arms and spend your money on something that matters, this doesn't!

[shotgun]

RanyW ,glad yours worked out for you.

I guess we will have to agree to disagree on this one .

[RandyW]

Sometimes we just have to do it that way. LOL

[cooke]

Originally Posted by RandyW

Sometimes we just have to do it that way. LOL

See there, over here in the G-body section we can disagree and not have any attorneys involved. LOL.

[shotgun]

"I guess we will have to agree to disagree on this one ",my attorney told me to say that until the papers are served!!

[RandyW]

Papers are best served with something to roll in them!