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  #1  
Old 09-05-2022, 11:59 PM
unruhjonny's Avatar
unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
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Default replacement 1970 Firebird locks

I am looking to replace my original locks, and would like replacements keyed with the original code used on my car.

I have tried to reach out to the company that has been mentioned on these forums as offering this service, but cannot seem to get a reply;
The one time I did get a reply, one of the codes I gave them was not correct, and they told me to buy the sets offered through Ames - and since that email, no responce.

Now, I had contemplated buying the sets offered through Ames, but here is why I would like to get them in my car's correct code;
If my keys are ever lost, GM Canada can get my car's key code through thier own vintage vehicle services - and I can then get replacements cut at a dealer.

I have contemplated buying a code book, a clipper (and parts), and lock service kits to do this myself;
I narrowly missed out on finding someone to do this for me through yenko dot net, but I only got ahold of this individual after he was no longer able to do this.
I figure that if I buy the repop locks, and if I am equipped, I should be able to recode the door, trunk, and glove box locks (after buying blanks, a clipper and all the other neccisary parts) - but I believe that the ignition lock will be the problem - I do believe that these, once assembled, are not made to be recoded.

To be perfectly clear, I DO have the key codes.
I believe that a replacement ignition tumbler was already installed when I recieved my car in 1995, and I only had the trunk, and (new) ignition keys.
I still have the original glove box door lock and trunk lock, but the trunk lock is worn (you have to wiggle it just right, and twist your tongue to get it to open), and the glove box door lock chrome cap pops off (I guess I could epoxy it on).

I am ABSOLUTELY open to thoughts, or advice on the subject;
Feel free to use the email link in my user profile if you would like to speak privately.

Thanks for your consideration.

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1970 Formula 400
Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior
A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car.
Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left.


1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing)
2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs)
  #2  
Old 09-16-2022, 12:23 AM
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unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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Default

Hmm, well I would have hoped that by now someone might have replied, or reached out to me.

How about this for a new question;

Can anyone cross reference Gm to Briggs and Stratton part numbers?

or

Maybe someone can point me to the right book?

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1970 Formula 400
Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior
A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car.
Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left.


1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing)
2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs)
  #3  
Old 10-04-2022, 09:01 PM
Poncho Dave Poncho Dave is offline
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Default

Just had a set of 70 and 73 locks re-keyed. Find a good local locksmith. If you need to have the ignition matched to doors, the donor must use the same letter blanks.

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Old 10-23-2022, 07:22 PM
Formulabruce's Avatar
Formulabruce Formulabruce is offline
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Location: North East of AMES PERFORMANCE, in the "SHIRE"
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If you get a pile of used GM vintage locks, you can assemble a good selection of " chits" and then take one original lock, find out which it has and duplicate it. Also can leave one aa a blank if you can get correct and lock will open.

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  #5  
Old 10-24-2022, 12:09 PM
unruhjonny's Avatar
unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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this is an idea...
I have only had one issue, I cannot seem to dis assemble the ignition tumbers - if I could, then I'd be set.

I may end up doing along the lines of what Dave suggested;
But I may also first buy a clipper to make properly cut keys before getting locks re-coded - the last set of keys I got were cut on a machine by a gm-parts-bonkey who could not have put any less care into the precision of the cuts.

__________________
1970 Formula 400
Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior
A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car.
Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left.


1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing)
2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs)
  #6  
Old 10-24-2022, 12:37 PM
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Formulabruce Formulabruce is offline
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Location: North East of AMES PERFORMANCE, in the "SHIRE"
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You are correct about modern keys being "cut".
When I was working at the dealership in the 70's we had the hand operated key "punch" tool.
You would dial in the numbers based on the book you look up the key code in, insert the correct blank, and squeeze.
This key would be sharp edges and a NEW Original key ( with the chits with code popped out).
The key maker would wire brush the edge and hand it to the owner.
Modern keys, regardless of how precise the "edge" that follows the key contours, or the "cutter" blade , are bad COPIES.
If you copy an original and worn key, it will most likely NOT work, and IF it does, the new edges will further wear the actual Lock.
I have noticed over the last few years that Lock sets are getting combined and the number of key code options are few.
I think there are videos of taking apart locks. Our parts guy would do it on the counter once in a while.
The key punch and code Book... There are a few around, saw one at carlisle few years ago. I seem to recall a Buick restoration guy offering a lock/key service as well.

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