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#1
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Repairing a Hideaway Can
Hi all,
Am trying to get my hideaway headlights working. Realized the can is rusted through in a couple places. Used some jb weld. Hopefully that holds. I'd prefer to use the original can as the repops look different. Still not holding vacuum after jb weld. Wondering if there might be a seal issue between the nipple and can. Does anyone know how the can is disassmbled? Is the nipple pressed or screwed into the can? etc? Wish I had not sold my air compressor - as maybe I could test for leaks using that (maybe bike pump will work). Thanks!
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration |
#2
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I smartened up and decided to use the cheap electric vacuum pump I bought on Amazon in reverse. Pressurized the can with the pump and held it under water to find a couple more holes.
More JB Weld. I'll try the same test tomorrow after the JB Weld cures. Step by step.
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration |
The Following User Says Thank You to getmygoat For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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Yea, sealed an original can up in the late 80's. Sold that GTO.
Seems a popular "commercial" beans/con carne can could play the role rather well. Just how to get the stuff out. old Hi-C Welches & Coffee cans not that Big huh. |
#4
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I always wondered about adding a small electric vacuum pump into the system to "recharge" the vacuum in the system if the engine was not running ... useful to show off your front flappers a bunch without starting the engine
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
#5
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Won't the system hold vacuum indefinitely with the engine off? That's what the can is for, to provide a vacuum reserve if you turn off the engine and then the lights. Check valve should prevent leak down if the system is tight. No?
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration |
The Following User Says Thank You to getmygoat For This Useful Post: | ||
#6
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Yeah, but you can only cycle the covers about 2.5 times with the engine off
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
The Following User Says Thank You to dataway For This Useful Post: | ||
#7
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Another thing I noticed.
The bottom of my can has something similar to a small nail through a hole in the bottom near the edge. This seems weird but could it be a pressure relief of some kind? e.g. in the event of a large backfire the nail would fly out and prevent the can from exploding? I bought the reservoir used of course so I don't know the history. The "nail" doesn't look like a normal nail, almost like its a special built nail for the purpose. Anyone seen this on another factory reservoir? It seems to be preventing a good seal at this point (the can is holding pressure if I put my finger over the nail's hole).
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration Last edited by getmygoat; 04-18-2023 at 12:49 AM. |
#8
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Don't see that on mine.
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So long, farewell. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Held for Ransom For This Useful Post: | ||
#9
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I just ran my finger around the edge of mine on that end and I don't feel anything like that.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#10
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Funny thing, mine will not come down with the engine off but will come up... haven't tried to troubleshoot it. Weird. Don't want to hijack this thread.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#11
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If it were me I'd try soldering the holes in the can rather than JB Weld, I think it would hold up better.
The vacuum operated linkage for the tripower setup on my car used a vacuum canister that looks exactly like a large Hi-C juice can (although I don't know if they still use cans or if they've switched to plastic.) Power brake vacuum canisters on some cars were similar, too. it may be worth prowling the aisles of your local grocery store to see if there's some food or drink that comes in a can that looks like yours. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Stuart For This Useful Post: | ||
#12
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Quote:
I doubt a grocery story in 2023 is likely to have a can similar to the one made on a GTO in 1969. Inline tube sells a repop, but it has 11 ribs. The stock cans had four.
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration |
#13
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Quote:
Was thinking maybe it could be a water drain... but its not positioned at the low point. Doesn't make sense.
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration |
#14
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A #10 vegetable can is about the right size and look but how would you empty the contents and seal the can back up? Seems it would be much more difficult than fixing the one that you have.
Can't imagine how that "nail" wound up in there. Plenty of choices for sealing the hole. Solder, JB weld, a small screw with threads coated with sealant...
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#15
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That nail thing rings a bell .... could swear I've come across that before.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
#16
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Thanks all for the input. I think what I'll try is including a small amount of sealer around the head of that nail. My theory is the vacuum will draw the nail in and help with sealing. This should seal the can while not taking any irreversible actions in case the nail is actually OEM.
Hopefully none of the jbweld or sealer is drawn into the intake.
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration |
#17
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Quote:
You mention JB Weld and 5000 PSI. I believe that's just compression strength of JB Weld so it wouldn't mean much of anything in this case. And last, as long as the area around the hole in your can is dimpled in, I'm pretty sure JB weld or solder would work just fine as long as you filled the dimpled in area too. I also agree that sealing the nail would probably work too, but I would be less inclined to go that route out of concern that normal road vibration might work the nail loose over time and cause a leak. It's all just theory.......... Old Joe
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68 Firebird Convertible 68 GTO Clone (Tempest) Wagon |
#18
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I've had good success with a product by JB Weld called Steel Stick. It's basically a two-part putty so that you can press it into the space you want it in and it stays in place. The traditional is a little runny for some applications. Either would do this job. Just rough the metal up a little bit around the hole.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#19
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JB Welded and put new rubber seals in sometime in the late 80’s. Still holding.
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68 GTO,3860# Stock Original 400/M-20 Muncie,3.55’s 13.86 @ 100 Old combo: 462 10.75 CR,,SD 330CFM Round Port E's,Old Faithful cam,Jim Hand Continental,3.42's. 1968 Pontiac GTO : 11.114 @ 120.130 MPH New combo: 517 MR-1,10.8 CR,SD 350CFM E's,QFT 950/Northwind,246/252 HR,9.5” 4000 stall,3.42's 636HP/654TQ 1.452 10.603 @ 125.09 http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-GTO...lip-31594.html |
The Following User Says Thank You to TCSGTO For This Useful Post: | ||
#20
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I jb welded mine years back. I could never get it to seal 100%. but its was pretty rusted inside. I still have it, but ended up buy the incorrect aftermarket can. Only option I really had at the time. Figured it would be ok until a better solution came along.
I probably have a post on it somewhere. I was constantly posting about all the little issues I was running into. hard to believe my car will have been completed for 4 years this October
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68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
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