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#1
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Anyone running a hydraulic clutch setup?
Question for the manual trans members, anybody here switched from OE linkage (Z bar) to hydraulic? What’s your two cents? Worth the investment? Thanks and happy holidays! Snowing like crazy here in Reno right now, yay!
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#2
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Following...
I have used a zbar setup on my 70 with a TKO600 for a few years now. Mcleod RXT clutch. Loved it. moving up to a T56Magnum Faceplated trans which needs a hydraulic setup. going with the bowler setup as attached with Tilton bearing. hooks to stock clutch pedal. Going RXT1200HD clutch.
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[SIGPIC] Steve |
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#3
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That T56 is a dream tranny. Love it! Right now just running a good ol’ Muncie in my ‘69 LeMans.
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#4
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I used the APT hydraulic clutch when I swapped the TKO in my Catalina. Works great and you dont have to worry about header clearance with the Z bar.
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1979 TA 541/T56 Magnum 1964 Catalina 462/TKO600 1965 GTO 389/4speed |
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#5
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I've used the McLeod hydraulic TOB. It's a nice difference from factory, significantly reducing pedal effort. It's worth is up to the end user. For us it was worth every penny as it made the car easier for my Dad to drive with weakened leg function from nerve damage.
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
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#6
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I have the mcLeod TOB and did not find it any more EZ to push.Tom
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#7
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Double check the install. I had the same result when I accidentally got the mounting holes installed wrong at first. VERY big difference when its right.
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
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#8
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What mounting holes?Tom
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#9
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Mine was done 23 years ago.Tom
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#10
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This is a generic picture, but make sure that bracket is oriented and installed as per the directions for you're application.
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
#11
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I installed this kit. Have really enjoyed driving the car more now, as it is very smooth. Also, if you have a strong clutch to push (pressure plate) is helps. The one thing is getting the rod to the piston as straight as possible to avoid side loading the hydraulic cylinder. They have changed the kit brackets since I did mine.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-hmgm01101sr
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, E-head, Solid roller 3650 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 10.12@133 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
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#12
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I did both - the hydraulic setup for the T/A for clearance. The Lemans has a repop factory setup - works very well. If the holes are worn on an original setup it makes a big difference.
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#13
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In the applications I have had done we did find the bore size of the master made a huge diff,too small and you can barely push it in and too large not enough travel to disengage.My current setup the master was matched to the bearing.I run the same McLeod pressure plates in all 3 of my cars and the factory linkage in my other 2 cars has about the same pedal pressure.When I built the 63 421 Lemans I knew in front the factory linkage would not be up to the task so we went right to the McLeod setup.The second one I did I tried one of those early truck dual MCs,one for brakes and one for clutch and it was almost undrivable as the bore was too small.Took it to a shop that did this stuff as a biz and found a proper size MC and life was good.Have never done a A-B change in the same car to feel the diff just the same clutch in 3 diff cars,one hyd and 2 factory mech and pretty no diff. FWIW,Tom
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#14
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I just finished installing a set up. Bought the bracket and master cylinder from Modern Driveline, fit and finish was good, only thing I ran into was that the pedal was supposed to bottom out on the floor of the car as the master cylinder reaches the end of its stroke, My 65 LeMans required a pedal stop. now saying that the kit was listed for 64-66 Chevelle/GM A body so maybe the Pontiac pedal has a different mount point? for the release bearing I bought a Tilton bearing set up from Summit. Overall pedal feel is about the same as the mechanical linkage. Have not driven the car yet due to no insurance and its crappy out. It wasn't cheap to convert to hydraulic but I found all the repop linkage to be crap quality I bushed it all to stop wear after only a couple thousand miles. The linkage felt as though it was seizing up when the car was heat soaked (long drive 5 plus hours over a day)
Bracket and master assembly https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop...ic-master-kit/ This is the bearing set up used, summit had stock when I was in need ( Tilton 60-6106) https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop...o-t-o-bearing/
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65 LeMANS , SD performance 462ci Engine, Tremec TKX 5 speed with a 3.73 geared 8.5" 10 bolt Last edited by TB1; 12-23-2021 at 10:50 PM. |
#15
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I switched to it a year ago. I bought an American power train kit. Then a member here referred me to Bowler... that place is the cats nuts. I switched because 15 years ago I fabbed an odd mechanical clutch linkage, because of the headers, it worked all those years but I knew it was a weak point. I bought the master cylinder bracket and that made things easier and stronger than the firewall. I honestly feel the clutch is about the same to push in. The hole in my pedal did need to be enlarged slightly, a small right angle drill worked nice for that. The pedal does bottom out. The biggest thing for me to get used to was the pedal travel, you only need to push it in like like 3 inches verses the 5 or 6 with all mechanical linkage.
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" Is wearing a helmet illegal" Mike Kerr 1-29-09 |
#16
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I really think when we spend all the money and labor to do the hyd system our mind has to tell us its more EZ to push to justify the expense!Tom
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#17
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I think if it's not easier pedal effort, something is amiss, either in the engineering, or the install. There's physics involved here, hydraulics are supposed to make the work easier. Just sayin'
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
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#18
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The 3 factory engineered hydraulic clutch cars we had weren't bad, but honestly I wouldn't call them easier to push then the mechanical linkage cars we have.
Only time mechanical linkage cars were stiff is when I'd monkey around with some aftermarket wiz bang stuff that was supposed to be bigger or have more holding power. In fact I went down that road with one of the hydraulic clutch cars and made that one much more uncomfortable to drive with more pedal effort. Clutch discs and pressure plates have come such a long way now it's not really an issue anymore. After a lot of clutches and a lot of money, I've found a simple Centerforce setup with mechanical linkage is just as easy to push, if not easier, than the hydraulic stuff we've had, and they are holding enough power for street cars with some track use. In fact I have that Centerforce setup with mechanical linkage in my wifes daily driver and she loves it. I can put 3 fingers on the pedal and push it in with my hand. She used to daily drive one of the hydraulic clutch setups years ago and she loves the current mechanical setup she has now. From my experience it has come down to the clutch disc and pressure plate setup more than which actuating setup you choose to use. |
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