#21  
Old 05-17-2022, 11:16 PM
Bill Meyer's Avatar
Bill Meyer Bill Meyer is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: West St Paul MN/Mesa,AZ- depending on weather
Posts: 817
Default

Maybe someone stuck a banana up your tailpipe(s), or a mouse family moved in

__________________
GT37 3625lbs..Fastest bench seat, column shift, all steel,no power adders car at Norwalk
1.35 w/29.5x10.5x15
6.42 @ 109
10.09 @ 133
  #22  
Old 05-18-2022, 08:42 AM
0300youmadeit 0300youmadeit is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lindenhurst
Posts: 148
Default

I think itís more of the accumulation of neglect, slip shod work, and a novice to poor mechanic lol

  #23  
Old 05-18-2022, 10:19 AM
tom s tom s is online now
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: long beach ca usa
Posts: 17,773
Default

Not sure what Pertronix you have,I have stuck with the original Pertonix 1.Been 20 years and have never had a issue.Have 2 in running engines,last one I bought still shows made in USA.FWIW,Tom

  #24  
Old 05-18-2022, 12:14 PM
0300youmadeit 0300youmadeit is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lindenhurst
Posts: 148
Default

I’m not replacing it yet.. after a little research I figured out I’m missing the firewall to head ground strap, and the one from the body to the trans is original equipment.. before I replace anything that has to do with electricity I’m going to make sure I get the whole grounding situation fixed, also have a set of midd wires I need to put together to replace the summit ones

  #25  
Old 05-18-2022, 01:12 PM
Schurkey Schurkey is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
Posts: 5,273
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 0300youmadeit View Post
The idle screws are 1 and 1/2 turn out.
Because that's where the engine runs best, or because that's where you put them during your initial setting before the engine fired and ran?

In other words...sounds like you need some fine-tuning of the mixture screws, after you get some other issues figured-out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 0300youmadeit View Post
The floats were sitting half way up when I had the car apart, and the fuel sits at just about the top of the porthole on the carb.
Fuel level is at the TOP of the "porthole" on the carb?

That's not right.

  #26  
Old 05-18-2022, 01:36 PM
0300youmadeit 0300youmadeit is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lindenhurst
Posts: 148
Default

1.5 turns out: for initial set up
Top of sight window (Iím getting the terminology down): thatís where it was which I now have learned is not right. The needle and east was completely fouled, I replace both the front and rear.

I spent hours on YouTube last night learning more about the carb.. hope it pays off. One question though.. when I rebuilt it the accelerator pump had a rubber piece, the original just had a little non on it and the replacement one has about 1/2 inch of thin rubber.. should I cut this so it doesnít interfere with the float or should I get a different one? Thanks

  #27  
Old 05-18-2022, 05:20 PM
Tom Vaught's Avatar
Tom Vaught Tom Vaught is offline
Boost Engineer
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: The United States of America
Posts: 30,312
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 0300youmadeit View Post
1.5 turns out: for initial set up
Top of sight window (I’m getting the terminology down): that’s where it was which I now have learned is not right. The needle and east was completely fouled, I replace both the front and rear.


If you have an older holley carb with small brass sealing plugs then the fuel level needs to be just below the hole when the plug is removed.
If you bump the fender (with your thigh), the gas should just seep out of the bowl.

Because you have, it seems a "Port Hole" fuel bowl, then the fuel level should be in the center of the port hole glass height. NOT AT THE TOP.



I spent hours on YouTube last night learning more about the carb.. hope it pays off. One question though.. when I rebuilt it the accelerator pump had a rubber piece, the original just had a little non on it and the replacement one has about 1/2 inch of thin rubber.. should I cut this so it doesn’t interfere with the float or should I get a different one? Thanks
You must cut the stem of the Umbrella Seal off just above the nub after you install it. All new ones come with the stem. You use a pliers to pull the stem thru the bowl to install it. THEN you cut the stem off above the nub.

Tom V.

ps "Post #21 "Maybe someone stuck a banana up your tailpipe(s), or a mouse family moved in" "

I may have, in my lifetime, installed a pealed potato in a tailpipe, but installing a banana is a new one for me.

__________________
"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught

Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward.

Last edited by Tom Vaught; 05-18-2022 at 05:45 PM.
  #28  
Old 05-18-2022, 06:54 PM
Schurkey Schurkey is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
Posts: 5,273
Default

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orH6ZSY0W1o

  #29  
Old 05-18-2022, 07:08 PM
25stevem 25stevem is offline
Senior Chief
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 457
Default

You Save the skin because that’s where a lot of the nutrients are, lol!
Expanding foam insulation is my go to for complete nasty A holes that really deserve such .

__________________
You can cut out a manís tongue, but that does not mean heís a Liar, it just means you fear the truth that he might speak about you.
  #30  
Old 05-19-2022, 09:36 AM
0300youmadeit 0300youmadeit is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lindenhurst
Posts: 148
Default

Well I drainers the oil.. fortunately no coolant.. but it may have been better equal parts gas as it was oil.. lm letting it air out a little bit to hopefully evaporate what left before I put in the new oil..

I pulled the carb off, properly trimmed the umbrella on the accelerator pump, set the floats about midway up, replace the baseplate gasket (I had put one on that was too smal, and it kept the primary open and the transfer slots were way to exposed). Before I try to run it again Iíll verify spark on every plug.. If it floods again I may just get a new carb

Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:48 PM.

 

About Us

The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.

 




Copyright © 2017