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Old 03-05-2018, 06:49 PM
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It just occured to me that the broken cage nut is in the trunk floor portion that is brand new and is therefore covered in that EDP coating that all AMD panels come coated in. Can you weld thru that stuff cause I will have no way to get a wire wheel in there to scour it up to weld the new nut in.

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  #62  
Old 03-05-2018, 07:45 PM
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It just occured to me that the broken cage nut is in the trunk floor portion that is brand new and is therefore covered in that EDP coating that all AMD panels come coated in. Can you weld thru that stuff cause I will have no way to get a wire wheel in there to scour it up to weld the new nut in.
Actually, it's in the cross brace at the top of the differential hump, you can get to if from the bottom too. But, just to say, they should have checked all that before they installed the floor.

Since you have a choice, to access it from the top or bottom, look and see which would be easier.

Personally, I would think the best way would be to remove the cross brace, clean it up, weld the nuts in prep it with weld through primer, then weld it back in place. You can then spray anti-rust into the bolt hole from each side and coat the inside after the fact. But, the best way is not always the easiest.

There are different types of cage nuts, you need the ones with the large tabs on the cage, and you really only need to tack it in place. When you do, you can even load it to one side or the other, touching the side of the rail, to give it a little more support. I would load it to the side as if you were loosening it, since that would be when it would need the most support.

It looks like they repop the cross brace, so you could actually just buy the brace, chop the old one out, prep the new one, with the cage nuts, and install.

I was looking for a pic of the brace in the car, but was struggling to find one!

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  #63  
Old 03-05-2018, 07:47 PM
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No its the aluminum trim around the door and quarter windows
That's available too:

https://www.ebay.com/i/330749534991?chn=ps

If possible, I suggest purchasing from our host, if they have it available, support the community and all.

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  #64  
Old 03-05-2018, 07:57 PM
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Quarter window molding is available too:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-A...4383.l4275.c10


EDIT: Look at the whole store:

http://stores.ebay.com/Abodies/Moldi...sub=2288585819


.

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  #65  
Old 03-05-2018, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64speed View Post
It just occured to me that the broken cage nut is in the trunk floor portion that is brand new and is therefore covered in that EDP coating that all AMD panels come coated in. Can you weld thru that stuff cause I will have no way to get a wire wheel in there to scour it up to weld the new nut in.
It's best to not weld through EDP, but if you pull the brace, it won't be an issue.

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Old 03-05-2018, 09:33 PM
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Its not the one at the brace it’s the one on the very back drivers side right before the rear crossmember that bumper mounts too

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Old 03-05-2018, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64speed View Post
It just occured to me that the broken cage nut is in the trunk floor portion that is brand new and is therefore covered in that EDP coating that all AMD panels come coated in. Can you weld thru that stuff cause I will have no way to get a wire wheel in there to scour it up to weld the new nut in.
Use a die grinder to clean off the EDP coating,then weld it,and prime.

  #68  
Old 03-06-2018, 12:45 AM
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I can’t get a wire wheel or even a wire brush in there. I got the answer I sought from AMD today they said turn my heat down and don’t breath the fumes. I have a respirator. I wish I could do it from the bottom cause I’d rather not cut my floor

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Old 03-06-2018, 01:56 AM
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Use a die grinder to clean off the EDP coating,then weld it,and prime.
I just reread your post and yes I do have an air grinder I hadn’t thought of. That should work if I can get it down in there. I want to cut the hole as small as possible.

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Old 03-06-2018, 08:34 AM
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I would need a pic to understand, is it just a 'bulge' the size of the cage & nut? Or is it a channel that's long?

If it's just a bulge, you can use a cut off wheel and make it into a 'clam', or cut the whole thing off, and fix it off the car, then weld the whole thing back on.

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Old 03-06-2018, 03:17 PM
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If the cage has completely broke loose,you will have to cut the trunk floor,remove the cage,drill a hole on each tab,then weld it in place.
I use 1/32" cutoff wheels for panels.
The body mount cage nuts are 7/16"

You could also remove the rear floor pan brace,and weld it back on,like Hwystr455 mentioned. Use a Blair 3/8" spot weld cutter.

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Old 03-06-2018, 04:50 PM
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Thats what I am gonna do. I already have the location the body nut is at scribed in the trunk floor. I plan to cut a u shaped portion of the floor and bend the metal back, weld the new cage nut I just paid thru the nose for from summit racing and then bend the metal back down and weld it up. Hopefully it will be that simple. After some grinding and a little spatter paint hopefully you will never know its there.

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Old 03-06-2018, 08:27 PM
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We all know!Tom

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Old 03-10-2018, 02:11 AM
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I could go over my plan again for Toms benefit or I could tell you what really went down. I bought my nut from Ames and it arrived today. I eyeballed the mount and the trunk floor and made the cut where I thought best to do so. Well it wasn’t dead on so I was kind of pissed about that until I noticed something. It hadn’t broken the welds on the cage they were fine. It had actually twisted the cage bad enough that the nut could spin and had hogged it out to where it was just spinning freely. The cage was still perfectly welded to the floor and I would have had to have made the cut way bigger to cut the cage out so I pried on it till it was pushed wide enough for me to wedge the nut at which time I back my bolt out destroying my threads in the process. I took the nut out of the cage from the one Ames sent me and put it in the right place in the twisted up cage and then beat it down with an 8 pound sledge until it captured the nut well again. I dug thru the body hardware they had saved and found a bolt that was in like new shape and ran it up in there and tightened it dow and viola problem solved. I closed the hole by folding the metal back down and welding it up but I have to admit the weld is ugly. There was a pretty big gap the cutting wheel made and I had to try to fill it in. It looks like crap but it’s so close to the tail panel no one will ever see it and if they did they would know exactly what it was for. My only pet peeve is I bought 59 dollars worth of dupli color trunk spatter paint and it’s junk. Just looks like black and gray paint. No spatter or texture. I can’t send it back cause it’s considered hazardous so I guess I am gonna use like truck bed liner then spray this stuff over it unless someone knows of a true spatter paint besides the GM which is 25 dollars a can.

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Old 03-10-2018, 11:41 AM
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Most people use the 1/8" cut off wheels,that's why the gap is so wide,i recommend the 1/32" or 1/16". Grind the welds down,skim coat with filler,sand and prime. I would find the right spatter paint.


Last edited by gene simmons; 03-10-2018 at 11:49 AM.
  #76  
Old 03-10-2018, 07:37 PM
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. My only pet peeve is I bought 59 dollars worth of dupli color trunk spatter paint and it’s junk. Just looks like black and gray paint. No spatter or texture. I can’t send it back cause it’s considered hazardous so I guess I am gonna use like truck bed liner then spray this stuff over it unless someone knows of a true spatter paint besides the GM which is 25 dollars a can.
One can of the GM paint did my trunk. The rest is flat black and clear satin to seal it. So, 25 for the splatter paint and maybe 15 for the rest and you're done and would have saved you about 20 bucks.

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Old 03-11-2018, 10:11 AM
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I've had issues with trunk splatter paint and coverage, think it took like 20 cans to do my trunk, and easy that to do the 442 trunk. And screw the top coat they sell, I used engine paint, clear, and that seems to make it last longer. With the GM top coat, it would sick to the underside of the trunk mat, and come up in large 'sheets'.

I called once regarding the trunk paint, and PY hadn't heard of issues before. Maybe it was a production run or something, but it wasn't like I was loading it on, just getting basic coverage. I shake the heck out of the cans too, so it wasn't like it was lumped up on the bottom or anything, think the stuff just doesn't cover very well. But between the 2 projects, it would have had to have been a couple different production runs, so think it's just the way the paint is.

Both cars I wire wheeled the floor to bare metal, and did POR-15. I let that cure for weeks before I laid the splatter, so that wasn't the issue.

Pretty sure I've posted my experience regarding before here, and possibly on the build thread for the 442.

Bed liner might be a better option, but I suggest not spraying anything on top of it. The mat will cover it anyway, bet you will get better coverage with it, and it will last longer too. If you hold the can a little further away from the surface, you get a smoother finish.

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  #78  
Old 03-11-2018, 01:10 PM
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I am thinking bedliner just because this trunk spatter paint is ridiculously expensive for the good stuff and the cheap stuff doesnt cover at all. I dont understand how one aerosol can would do a whole trunk. My expectation was to be like my virgin 63 Impala SS so I guess my standards were pretty high. The trunk floor is already coated in EDP because its new but I wanted a different look then gloss black. I am gonna bedliner it and then bite the bullet and buy one of the 200 dollar mats.

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Old 03-12-2018, 11:36 AM
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I am thinking bedliner just because this trunk spatter paint is ridiculously expensive for the good stuff and the cheap stuff doesnt cover at all. I dont understand how one aerosol can would do a whole trunk.
I'll try to explain how it works with one can.. Wish I could show you.
All of the coverage is by the flat black...which can be any decent hardware store brand of black. That might take 3 or 4 cans. Once coverage of the black is satisfactory, you simply take the spatter and 'streak' it back and forth, etc. to deposit flecks all over the black. That's it, just flecks, evenly and lightly deposited on the black.
After that, a couple of cans of satin clear to seal it.
Again, 100% of the coverage is the black paint...the spatter is just that, spattered over the black.


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Old 03-12-2018, 12:41 PM
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Yeah, that would work. Kinda. But the true OE stuff is a textured surface/coating. To get that texture/look, you need to spray the whole thing with the splatter paint. On the assembly line it's done with a gun/special tip, but it's not complete coverage. But that can be part of the reason trunks rust out, too.

Granted, I 'over-restored' mine, but it would still take at least half the amount I used.

I'm guessing because of the texture material, 1 can only can hold so much, which is why it takes so many.

I hear the Parts Place stuff is different, lasts longer, and covers better, but I've never used it.

Looking at old threads, seems I used like 14-18 cans per car. Then 6-8 cans of clear. Not sure how many I used this last time, but I could look it up. But pretty sure it was somewhere around the same amount.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...light=splatter

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...light=splatter

Just to say, mine are a pretty heavy texture, and looks great. Shaking the heck out of the cans is a must. Total number of times I've done this = at least 4, so my experiences are not from one example. And it was over like a 10-12 year period of time, guessing the rattle cans are no different today either.

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