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#1
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68 GTO vacuum to electric hideaways
I have a 68 GTO and wondering if anyone has had any experience or intstalled these electric hideaway conversion. Any pro or cons?
https://www.dicksterssmartpants.com/...ntiac-gto.html |
#2
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Pro: they will work, and work in the long term.
Pro: they don't leak in time and droop. Con: the stock work too when the boots are good and athe vacuum can doesn't cave in. Vac con: they can droop when not used awhile, or even after use, so the vac is prone to leak vs time. I got fixed headlamps, so not an expert on these matters anymore. Last Hide-A-Way 68 got sold early 90s. |
#3
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Thanks for the response. I have a complete new vacuum setup from Ames. Actuators, boots, hardware, all new vacuum lines, switch etc. The problem is my engine doesn't make enough vacuum for the breaks and the headlights. I have a brand new Leeds vacuum pump but not too sure I want to install that now. I'm sure I'll be selling that stuff soon. I just think the electric is easier to deal with. I notice this company is much cheaper than buying the ones that Ames sells.
Joe |
#4
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Have you viewed the 'sticky' at the top of this forum section?
I like the vacuum operation myself and it works great if everything is in place and I mean everything.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#5
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I have that conversion in my GTO as most of the original parts were either fubar or missing.
I'm happy with it, easy to install and adjust although did have the grilles out, so that made it easier and it works well. The only thing I need to look into is if I can somehow separate the running lights so I can have those on and keep the grilles up and only have them come down when having the normal lights on / high beams. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iySFNAi6c4
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1968 - Pontiac GTO |
#6
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Charlie Brengun
Did you figure out how to turn on the running lights and keep the grilles up? I'm looking at doing this conversion and this is a concern for me. Thanks!
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'69 Silver GTO Convt (400/M20/3.55) |
#7
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I know I am going to get shot down here, but I will put my .02 cents in. If all of your components are in good condition, ( steel parts, bushings etc. ) and are installed and adjusted properly, the over the center springs will hold the headlight doors up in position and they won't droop. Even if the vacuum hose is removed. I have had them set for months with no droop. Now if you drive it with no vacuum, they will drop from road bumps vibration etc. and they will drop in no time,. I tend to stick to original equipment, but if it doesn't mater to you, and you are starting from square 1 , the electric set up is probably a good option.
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#8
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You are right RFC. Mine never droop and work perfectly. That's not a knock against people who want to convert though, it's just a choice.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#9
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RFC, thank you for your thoughts. I agree with you and for the first 5-6 years I owned this car, they would work most of the time, but did start to droop. They haven't worked for the last 10 and I'd like to get them operating again. Two issues holding me back. First, I don't know where to start with replacing parts and time isn't on my side with work. Second, I've changed the engine and now have a bit more cam that's barely making enough vacuum for the brakes. If idle isn't up enough, the brake pedal can be an issue. My concern is having enough vacuum for both. I am surprised Pontiac didn't make them electric in the first place. Even on my '63 they were electric from factory.
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'69 Silver GTO Convt (400/M20/3.55) |
#10
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I've always been a bit confused why the electric systems are so expensive. Those actuators are cheap... like $50 each.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
#11
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Quote:
Pretty good troubleshooting guide here- http://ultimategto.com/art24.htm Sent from my moto g stylus (2021) using Tapatalk
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 05-18-2022 at 12:50 PM. |
#12
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Greg Reid, you talked me into it. I'm digging into the factory system. I started with the switch and found one of the hoses was disconnected. After fixing, I re-connected the vacuum hose to the carb and started the car. With high idle and lots of help, I got the doors up and they stayed up while the car was running. After turning off, the drivers side comes down immediately and the passenger side does too, but not as quickly. I blew into the vacuum can and don't hear any leaks. After I stop blowing, pressurized air comes back out. I'm hoping it's good. I took the hose off the carburetor and while blowing into it, I can hear an air leak in the drivers side actuator. It appears the top seal (not the dust cover) is leaking. If I continue to open and close the door by hand while blowing, the leak gets louder, then stops and later starts again. Bad seal or bad actuator? This side has been changed before, by prior owner. I can tell by the zinc coating. The passenger side appears to be original and I'm not hearing any leaks from it. The springs on the actuators don't look like the new ones I'm finding online. The passenger side one is thick, but has many coils. The drivers side is much thinner and has about the same number of coils. It definitely looks too light for the application. The hoses are very old and don't appear to be any leaks in them. I know I need new springs for sure. What you would suggest I also replace?
Thanks
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'69 Silver GTO Convt (400/M20/3.55) |
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