[Verdoro 68]

This thing has the potential to be a widowmaker, but it gets the job done! I end up looking like I came out of the coal mine though.







Debated doing the bushings again but my OCD got the better of me and I ordered a new set. The polyurethane squeaking has been driving me nuts for the last 15 years so what did I order? New polyurethane bushings. Will put newnew ones in with plenty of grease.

[4dblnkldude]

Originally Posted by dataway

Not sure if you have any electrical experience ... but wiring the shop is kind of a fun project. Bite the bullet and do it up right and it will make your life so much easier in the future.
I lived with a jury rigged system that I installed to get up and going quick when we built the house, 15 years later I did it right, all armored BX cable tap-conned to the walls, various 220v outlets in strategic locations etc. No more extension cords run everywhere.

Do it while the shop is empty ... kind of a pain later after work benches are such are installed.

I agree 1000%! I did everything in conduit in my garage. The panel looks pretty cool with all the pipes coming out of it. I get alot of compliments, then I show them my boiler.

[napster]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

Interesting. What you've got in your T/A sounds pretty good to me. I'd be really happy with those numbers and a race car sound If I end up going with a bigger stroke, sounds like I should look at other cams to make the most of it. It's such a slippery slope when you've got to buy a whole bottom end anyway. Why do you prefer the smaller displacement with the RAII/IV heads?

The Ram Air series rollers are interesting. I called Butler when I was planning the top end swap and they quickly recommended the 744 roller. It seemed conservative to me so I gave Kauffmann a call and went with his recommendation (Butler offers an identical grind). Those RA series cams all have a pretty wide LSA and are relatively low lift with a decent amount of duration, especially on the exhaust side. Must be a reason. I suppose they're intended to be used 1.65 rockers? I have a box of new PRW 1.5s I'll probably use on this build.

Ever since I had the RAIV put together, I love the the engine and the performance. Also, I read an article that indicated that Mac MacKeller liked the 428 power and torque performance of all the Pontiac engines. After the way the RAIV goes I have to agree with him. The 433 revs higher and should work well with 3.73 rear gears.

I talked to my engine builder about going with the 427 stroker kit. He said that the bores are machined for the larger pistons of the 461 stroker kit. The 427 pistons are smaller and that would create a problem. He also feels the Butler HR version of the RAIV cam will work fine since it is so close to the XR288HR I was thinking of.

I'm a little worried about how the lope will be with a 113 LSA in a 461. This is what my '70 RAIV sounds like with the 230/236 cam at 112LSA in a 433. I'm sure it will really settle it down in a 461.

This is a video "The Boss" filmed for me the day after the car was delivered.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAFV...ACsLAA&index=1

This a video I shot the night before when it was delivered. This is why I think it sounds like a race car.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsmQXWoIMSU&t=10s

[Verdoro 68]

That sounds pretty tough

My stuff has been at the machine shop for a few weeks now. Hopefully it won't be long before I'm in a spot to make some final decisions about displacement. The longer I sit on it, the more a 4" stroke sounds like a good direction.

[napster]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

That sounds pretty tough

My stuff has been at the machine shop for a few weeks now. Hopefully it won't be long before I'm in a spot to make some final decisions about displacement. The longer I sit on it, the more a 4" stroke sounds like a good direction.

Thanks. I agree with your last sentence. I really like the 433 in the '70 TA. Too late for me as the block is already machined for the 461 stroker. Yeah, I'll get a little more HP & TQ out of it, but I just like the 433.

[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by napster

Thanks. I agree with your last sentence. I really like the 433 in the '70 TA. Too late for me as the block is already machined for the 461 stroker. Yeah, I'll get a little more HP & TQ out of it, but I just like the 433.

I don't know that the difference would be that big. If I was planning on running aluminum heads and could get some more compression and flow out out of the top end, the 462 would be obvious. Butler said to expect around 425 hp with a 462, 9.5:1 and a 230/236 HR and RAII heads. That seemed really conservative to me.

In other news, the slippery slope continues. I couldn't really get to the frame or inner fender to strip it the way I wanted to so I pulled the inner fenders. I hacked (and I mean hacked!) up an angle iron bracket for the A/C compressor to hold it in place. Mounting it up, I noticed that the line to the expansion valve was finger tight so maybe all the freon leaked out anyway. I can always tell an engine compartment where someone sweated over the details so a little extra time to clean and strip things is worth it.

Got the a-arms cleaned and painted with Eastwood extreme chassis black. It's pretty glossy, but I'm sure it will mellow out over time. I like a little contrast between the frame and sheet metal anyway. Seems like pretty tough paint. Pressed in new Energy Suspension bushings and I think they're good to go.

I've been using this white plastic auto transport wrap I got from Amazon to protect the car. So far it seems to be working well.

[dataway]

Sweet solution to the AC issue.

[Verdoro 68]

Well, this is looking like a Winter, Spring, Summer and maybe Fall project.

Got the frame and firewall painted. Rebuilt the steering intermediate shaft and got the control arms back on the car with new hardware. New brake lines and booster are next. Planning to get the steering back in the car this weekend. Got a bunch of shiny firewall and underhood detail knick-knacks from Ames the other day too. Sometimes I feel like I'm building a big model with the spray bomb arsenal I've built up.

[dataway]

In the dictionary, under "mission creep" .. they have a picture of your car

[Verdoro 68]

Totally. Hey, the machine shop is backed up and it's going to be a while...might as well make things nice and pretty to showcase that expensive engine This is exactly how cars end up covered in the garage in pieces for 20 years though.

Forgot another project I have going is "debadging" the Wilwood calipers so they don't stick out like a sore thumb. Rotors were also getting a little rusty so I painted the centers with brake paint while I was at it (another fine example of mission creep). I suppose if I wanted things to look more factory I could have gone with a cast iron shade.

[dataway]

Well it's going to look great that's for sure.

My restoration is taking so long I'm having to re-restore things before they ever actually get used

I'm always trying to keep an eye on originality within reason .. but way too often I look at something the factory did to cut corners, or some crappy hardware they used and I just say ... there is NO way I'm going to put it back together that way. But I'll do what I can to make it look as original as possible. I find myself using a lot of rivet nuts in places where the factory ran in a self drilling screw into sheet metal and the threads are just waiting to let go. Usually I can find a regular threaded bolt with a head that looks the same.

[Verdoro 68]

I'm after an original at first glance approach and retaining the overall factory vibe. I do modern updates where it makes sense for a better driving experience and try to blend them in so they look original-ish.

I swear my car has spent more time apart than together in the time I've had it. Going back through old pics, it was in a very similar state 18 years ago this month.

[n20ta2]

My goal is to get my 69 moving under its own power by May. Engine is built and ready to install minus the backordered northwind intake. 12 bolt is built and installed, this week I plan to go through the th400 and install the rebuild kit as well as the coan valvebody. Been a busy winter so far!

[Verdoro 68]

Things are slowly making their way back together. Got the steering, new booster, stainless brake lines and new master cylinder installed..

I ended up pulling the A/C compressor. It was such a pain to work around and I need to replace the shaft seal on it anyway. Should've done it a couple months ago instead of working around it. I ordered a replacement muffler, hoses and lines from Old Air so everything will be nice and shiny.

Haven't heard anything from the machine shop about my heads or block. I'll be in their neighborhood this week so I might check in to see what's up.

[dataway]

Hey, your car is now becoming one of my reference photos for when I get confused

[Verdoro 68]

Ha - I'm glad this forum has 20 years of old posts to reference!

I picked up this master cylinder with bleeders from Inline Tube. I haven't had one like this before, what's the purpose of the bleeders and are they used for bench bleeding?

[dataway]

My understanding is that they were original equipment on Tempest/GTO with power brakes, either drum or disk to assist in bleeding because of the radical angle required to fit the power booster in there.

The drum/disk cars used different MCs, but I think they both have those bleeders ... I am using my original power drum brake MC and it has the bleeders.

I didn't find it necessary to use them, bled the brakes on the car, they feel very solid right now ...but I haven't applied vacuum to the booster yet, that has a way of making your very solid bleeding job seem not so solid

Come to think if it ... I probably ought to crack them open a bit in case some air is trapped in that high spot.

BTW .. you know those little rubber check valves behind the brake line inner brass plugs? What the heck are those things for ... I think it has something to do with bleeding ... or something.

[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by dataway

I didn't find it necessary to use them, bled the brakes on the car, they feel very solid right now ...but I haven't applied vacuum to the booster yet, that has a way of making your very solid bleeding job seem not so solid

I suppose I'll bench bleed it the normal way by using the ports and see how it goes.

Originally Posted by dataway

BTW .. you know those little rubber check valves behind the brake line inner brass plugs? What the heck are those things for ... I think it has something to do with bleeding ... or something.

Are you talking about the combination valve? It's there to reset the valve if it shifts and shuts off flow because of low pressure (assuming a leak). This can happen during bleeding which is why most people use tool available to keep the valve centered while bleeding.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g63mP4HwVEQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g63mP4HwVEQ

[dataway]

I was talking about the tiny little rubber duckbills that go inside the MC behind the press in brass fittings in the outlet ports. You'll see them along with the brass inserts in most older complete MC rebuild kits.

Circled in green in this photo.

[Verdoro 68]

Hmm, those are new to me.