#1  
Old 04-19-2022, 09:11 PM
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i4abuygto i4abuygto is offline
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Default Putting power windows back in has manual cranks now

The previous owner of my 79 Trans Am put manual cranks in when the TA had power windows originally and all wiring seems to be there but I have a couple of questions.

I know the power regulators mount in a different location than the manual cranks but Is the same track hardware used for the power windows or do I need different tracks.
I checked all the original power window wiring that was abandoned in the car and it appears the only switches were in the console and (aside from a couple of the supply wires cut at the fuse box) all wiring from the fuse box to the console and out to the doors seems to be intact and good.

I think I want to run individual relays on each of the 4 window circuits and I was going to put those relays in the console so I am not burning up all wiring with the high amperage of the window motors.
Has anyone done a relay conversion or have any suggestions as to how to lighten the amperage load on the system so the windows work more efficiently than stock?

Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks

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Old 04-20-2022, 07:52 AM
TAKerry TAKerry is offline
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No idea on the tracks as both my cars have power windows, I havent seen those tracks compared to manual. I did a relay settup on my 77 and do not plan on doing so with the 79. I read a lot that the relays were important to having the windows work properly. When I did the 77 I bought a pack of relays off of ebay, driver side settup and worked perfect. I had problems with the pass side, figured it was my wiring, grounding issues etc. Found out the relay was bad. I did not have an extra so figured what the heck and wired it to factory. That window without relays works just as good as the driver with a relay. I also bought brand new motors and redid all of the window tracks.

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Old 04-20-2022, 09:03 AM
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67Fbird 67Fbird is offline
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If your relay window is no better than the stock set up you may have used too small of wire as you are getting too much voltage drop or the relay is terrible at the contacts. The entire idea for the relays is to allow you to send high power directly to the motors and the massive drop associated with the console switches.

https://nastyz28.com/threads/4-relay...0#post-3873539

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Old 04-20-2022, 09:22 AM
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I never got around to doing the relays on my TATA, but I should have... I burned up the window switch due to excessive current as the windows got harder to move and the connections got more corrosion. If nothing else, $50 in relays can save you $50 for a repro window switch.

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Old 04-20-2022, 11:26 AM
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67Fbird 67Fbird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Fbird View Post
If your relay window is no better than the stock set up you may have used too small of wire as you are getting too much voltage drop or the relay is terrible at the contacts. The entire idea for the relays is to allow you to send high power directly to the motors and AVOID the massive drop associated with the console switches.

https://nastyz28.com/threads/4-relay...0#post-3873539
needed to edit ^^^

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Old 04-20-2022, 12:59 PM
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ta6point6 ta6point6 is offline
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Just add a cs130 alternator or newer and that is all you need. At idle stock alternator puts out very low amperage. The cs130 puts out about 90 amps at idle. The power windows in 2nd gen cars draw a lot of amps to go down and especially up. I have heard many people have disappointing results with adding additional relays. When engine is off that is all battery power that controls windows.

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Old 04-20-2022, 06:12 PM
TAKerry TAKerry is offline
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I have no problem with my windows. The dr side with the relay works great! The pass side without the relay works great too! There seems to be no difference. I did upgrade the wiring but I also have a heavy duty alternator.

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Old 04-20-2022, 09:50 PM
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i4abuygto i4abuygto is offline
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Thanks for your comments guys, all of your input and opinions are greatly appreciated.

Even if I can get more power with the upgraded alternator I still want to take the high amp pressure off the switches by using the switches to run the relays not the windows - it will keep the switches from burning up. I used relays for my convertible top switch on my 67 GTO and for the aftermarket driving lights on the TA.

Thanks for the link to the other forum describing the 4 - relay setup. I thought the idea of putting the relays under the console was my idea. Does anyone have the pictures that were posted on that forum as the photos are unavailable on that thread.

Am I able to use the existing manual window tracks for the power regulators.

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Old 04-21-2022, 09:29 AM
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Some of the switch issue even the GM ones is alignment of the contacts. They are like a points distributor contact . Several I have looked at have misaligned contacts barely touching.

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  #10  
Old 04-23-2022, 11:13 PM
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So I ordered in the relays and they came today. I am disappointed to see that the connector plugs are wired with only 16 gauge wire. I was thinking with a 30 amp circuit they should be at least 14 gauge wire, 12 gauge would be the best.
In looking at all the other available relay and harnesses I am seeing most are 16-18 gauge wire and some (like the set i purchased), dont list the wire gauge that they are using.

I may have to re-pin all of these sockets with heavier gauge wire.

I pulled the door panels and checked continuity from the console switch harness to the door plugs and all is good.

The existing power window circuit wire in the car looks like it is 14 gauge. is that correct.

I plan on running a different 12 gauge wire from the fuse block (or maybe the battery) to the location of the relays to supply a stronger power to the windows through the 4 relays. I will use the existing wire in the TA from switch to the relay harness and from the relay harness out to the doors.

  #11  
Old 04-24-2022, 12:21 AM
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The manual regulators are riveted in the door mounting holes with what appear to be stock rivets and it doesnt look like the power regulator location mounting holes were ever used in these original doors.
Is there a chance that this TA was wired for power windows but never had them?
No sign of power locks ever being present.
Are power locks hard to put in?

Also the plug connector that plugs into the power window motor is missing on the driver side- just cut wires that test okay. Can I find a plug somewhere?

You guys are great and very helpful. Your comments and help is much appreciated.

Thank you.

Mark

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