#101  
Old 05-12-2022, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart View Post
Yamabond or Hondabond, from your respective local Yamaha or Honda motorcycle dealer, are good alternatives to Hylomar. You can probably get them online from Amazon or other sources as well.
I saw Hylomar on Amazon actually

Quote:
Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint View Post
About a tenth of a thousandth.
Thanks, that helps. That said, would I be correct in my assumption that this pic of the rod journal I posted earlier with that score on it should be polished at least? It can be lightly felt with my fingernail. I haven’t checked the other journals yet. The crank is .030 under already and clearances from the last builder were .0018-.0019 on the rods, .0021, .0019, .023 .023, .023 on the mains.

I’m an amateur at best at this but those seemed a bit tight however I was also afraid polishing would open them too much and if I read correctly another .010 off will make it difficult to find bearings. Not to mention the .030 under sets I bought just showed up today.

Assuming that score is the worst of it and can be polished, I’m thinking I should be safe?
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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap)

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Last edited by bhill86; 05-12-2022 at 11:39 PM.
  #102  
Old 05-13-2022, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhill86 View Post
So safe max would be up to 3/4”?

Going back to the filter housing real quick, this engine is a 69 with the 90° filter housing which also has the provision for the sensor perpendicular to the block which does not allow installation in my f body. Someone before me drilled and tapped the side of it so the sensor could be located the same as the 120°/tilted filter housing. That wouldn’t cause an inaccurate pressure reading would it?
The people at Steffs told me 1/4" with no gasket so you end up at 3/8" is where you want to be. 1/2" max.
No way I would run a pickup 3/4" off the pan floor.

  #103  
Old 05-13-2022, 06:04 AM
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Have the Crank polished since you cant do it right on you own unless you can rig up a way to spin it and also spin it in the right direction.
After that any light scratches that might be left on the Crank journal will be low spots and not harm anything.

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  #104  
Old 05-13-2022, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 25stevem View Post
Have the Crank polished since you cant do it right on you own unless you can rig up a way to spin it and also spin it in the right direction.
After that any light scratches that might be left on the Crank journal will be low spots and not harm anything.
Will do. I called a few machine shops today and hope to have time Sunday to pull the crank and drop it off Monday.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragncar View Post
The people at Steffs told me 1/4" with no gasket so you end up at 3/8" is where you want to be. 1/2" max.
No way I would run a pickup 3/4" off the pan floor.
Thanks for the info

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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap)

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  #105  
Old 05-18-2022, 08:28 PM
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Haven’t had a lot of time lately but I did get the cam sprocket and timing chain off today. It was tighter than I expected. The crank sprocket moved enough to get the cam gear off but I CANNOT get it if the crank snout. Figured I’d leave it on and the machine shop can remove it if needed when I have it polished.

Should they be that tight though? Videos I’ve seen seem to show both slip on essentially.

Also, a small win, when I removed my water pump I discovered it was a stamped impeller and there was a lot of space between it and the backing plate. New pump has a cast impeller. Hoping this improves my cooling. Never overheated per se but temp would increase on the highway a little and at idle with A/C on. Hoping this helps both.

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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap)

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  #106  
Old 06-09-2022, 01:02 PM
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Quick question….

Installing my oil pump. Actually, attached the pickup and am measuring for proper height. The screen end of the pickup is angled and appears to be brazed so it can’t be altered. I assume that’s ok and perhaps on purpose. But when it comes to measuring the depth of the pickup, I know 3/8-1/2” is recommended but with the angle of the pickup, is there a preferred place to measure? Do you measure at the lowest point? Highest? Center-ish and split the difference?

Maybe over thinking it but don’t want to discover a mistake once everything is back together.
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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap)

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  #107  
Old 06-09-2022, 01:24 PM
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Turn the engine over,put a ball of tin foil on the pump pickup and put the pan down on it.You will know for sure of how close.Tom

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  #108  
Old 06-09-2022, 01:59 PM
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I’ve seen the foil method suggested which I’m not opposed to doing but that will still leave me with a “thicker” side and “thinner” side no? Due to the angle of the pickup.

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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap)

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  #109  
Old 06-09-2022, 03:49 PM
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Your fretting over literally nothing here!

A 3/4” ID tube has a open area of .4417 sq inches and even the type of pump pick up that has a half closed off face has over 3 times that amount of sq inches for surface area!

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  #110  
Old 06-09-2022, 06:41 PM
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I wouldn’t say I’m fretting over anything. Was just trying to verify the correct way to measure and was curious about the angle of the pickup. At this point, I’ll set the lowest part of the pickup around 3/8 and move on.

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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap)

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  #111  
Old 06-21-2022, 04:46 PM
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Getting things back together. Does the throw out bearing, pilot bushing and/or trans input shaft splines get any kind of lube or should they be dry? Clutch kit came with some lube specified for the input shaft splines but I couldn’t find a definitive answer.

Thanks in advance.

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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap)

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  #112  
Old 06-22-2022, 08:11 AM
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Brian: The Throw out bearing should be pre-greased if new, if not get a new one. The throw out bearings are designed to self center also. The pilot bushing could have a very minimum coating of grease. I believe some of the brass bushings are oil impregnated. Same for input shaft. Very very minimum grease. Reason being as this equipment turns it will fling oil or grease off and possible contact on clutch which is bad. Make sure to brake clean flywheel and pressure plate disc. You can also put a tiny dab of grease on the clutch fork where the throw out bearing contacts and the pivot ball.

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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, E-head, Solid roller 3650 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick.
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76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend,
468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh.
  #113  
Old 06-22-2022, 03:52 PM
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Appreciate it. Got it all back together today and engine reinstalled. Hoping to have time the next few days to get it buttoned up and started for the first time. I should’ve specified what I meant when I asked about the TO bearing. I meant where it rides not the bearing itself. Thank you though.

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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap)

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  #114  
Old 06-23-2022, 07:39 AM
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There will already be grease in the bearing. If your talking about where the bearing surface rides on the pressure plate, I say no. None on the back side also. Only place minimum grease is on bearing retainer. The smooth shaft side where the bearing rides. I believe it's called the Steel bearing retainer. Here is a pic of the retainer. https://www.ebay.com/itm/202972761657 The bearing rides back and forth on this retainer.
A new bearing usually has a little channel inside that holds a bit of grease in it. I'm sorry as I'm not the best at explaining this.
So only place that there is a bit of grease is on the inside of the bearing where the bearing moves back and forth on that tranny bearing shaft.

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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, E-head, Solid roller 3650 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick.
Best so far 10.12@133 mph. 1.43 60 ft.
76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend,
468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh.

Last edited by chuckies76ta; 06-23-2022 at 07:49 AM.
  #115  
Old 06-23-2022, 08:57 AM
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No it helps and I think I’m in good shape with it. Thank you again

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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap)

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  #116  
Old 07-08-2022, 06:35 PM
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I figured even though my approach may not have been what everyone else would’ve done I’d give an update now that I have some miles on my engine. I ended up pulling the crank, had it polished, replaced the main and rod bearings (measured as best I could), new 60 psi pump, set the pickup higher than the last one and gave it a shot.

My lowest pressure I’ve seen on 90°+ days is 12-13psi at idle after a highway jaunt. 15w40 oil. More typical is15- 18ish psi. Like today for example, around 80° or a bit warmer today and I was seeing 18psi. I’m thinking that’s good enough for now at least. Maybe the cam bearings are clearanced a bit more or something but I still feel it’s improvement especially since ambient temps were in the 50s and low 60s before I pulled it and only showing 8-10psi.

Ideal? Maybe not but again, better than it was and probably manageable till I do a legitimate rebuild someday. Thank you to all that responded and offered advice.

Only issue I’m facing is clutch chatter but I think I’m going to start a new thread on that.

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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap)

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  #117  
Old 07-08-2022, 07:58 PM
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I had a 400 that during a very cold winter had some crap keep the check ball partially unseated.

When fully warmed up it only had enough oil pressure to just about keep the oil pressure light from flickering.
The max oil pressure it had above 2500 rpm was 35.
I drove the car like that thru 4 months of winter and many times beating it on it in forgetfulness that it had low pressure.
Come spring I pulled the motor out to find that the bearings looked like what you would expect from a motor with the mileage it had on it.
Number two rod bearing was the only one showing some very very light signs of running hot .

Your motor should hold up fine for you especially with todays oil compared to what I was running back in 78.

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  #118  
Old 07-08-2022, 08:08 PM
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Hope so. I plan to monitor the filter in the meantime. Thanks for your input.

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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap)

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  #119  
Old 07-09-2022, 06:11 AM
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One thing I would suggest to you is to monitor/ note how many ft lbs it takes to bar the motor over with the plugs out at room temp, even if you need to buy the type of torque wrench needed.

Besides confirming that no crap is showing up in your oil it’s very reassuring to know that as the miles pile on that nothing is adding friction to the rotating assembly.

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  #120  
Old 07-09-2022, 08:49 AM
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Didnt read these 6-pages. Did the conclusion reach the clapped-out cam bearing being the cause?

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