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#1
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correct front sway bar brackets and bushings
have these but not sure if the came off my 72 formula are they the correct ones
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#2
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Pictured brackets came of a 1 1/4" front bar........which was standard on Trans am....and available (but uncommon ) on a Formula.
Those brackets use a socket head cap screw.....with a small diameter head for bracket side clearance. The smaller 1 1/8" formula bar uses a wimpier looking bracket...with a standard hex bolt.. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Green Hornet For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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Quote:
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#4
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If you get the right bushings and bolts..
I think Moog used to offer correct replacement ones.. |
#5
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The brackets shown are for Y-99 as Green Hornet said.
Even with correct bolts there are 2 issues. The imbeded " nut" in the subframe is Not that strong and Can rip out as bars get bigger. The second is the bolt head on the factory Allen head bolts does Not cover much area and I have seen the mounting plate try to pull out around them. I like to weld the nut,or new well nut, to the frame in all 4 locations, then use a washer on that Allen headed bolt. The rubbers were available for GM 3/4 ton trucks as I recall. Anyways Don't tighten the thing up so it doesn't move, grease it so it works before the links are installed
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#6
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Quote:
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#7
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can i used these ,i have a 1 inch sway bar
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#8
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Grade 5 black phosphate Allen cap screws. I use a washer with them though.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#9
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yes you can with correct rubber for your bar. These used a regular bolt.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#10
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thanks for your help
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#11
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In later years, which might not apply here, the larger bars needed the smaller head bolts for clearance and were very similar to the flange head bolts for manifolds and headers for where access is restricted. The largest washer that fits is still good. I think my front bar now uses leftover ARP header bolts I had.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Trevor78 For This Useful Post: | ||
#12
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There are actually two different frame part numbers. One is for the normal sway bar and the other is for the heavy sway bar.
The normal subframe sway bar holes are pierced then tapped. This is cheap but the threads can pull out under heavy force. The heavy duty subframes had holes drilled in the frame and a riv-nut was installed in the holes. The riv-nuts have an external knurl on their body and deform both diametrically and along their major axis trapping and locking them into the hole. Kinda like a big rivet but with a tapped center. These are significantly stronger that the pierced tapped version.
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1969 TA RAIII M40 Auto Cameo White/ Std Blue Int 1970 TA RAIII M21 4-spd Lucy Blue/Std Black Int 1971 TA 455 HO M22 4-Spd Lucy Blue/Deluxe White Int |
The Following User Says Thank You to RAJ7395 For This Useful Post: | ||
#13
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Quote:
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#14
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Larger bar required a larger bushing...which put bushing retainer too close to hex bolt head...
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#15
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Yes that is the problem I had. Going to try to put my old one back
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#16
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Try your local hardware store True Value...or Ace....
You want a 3/8" x 1'...or 1 1/4"...NC socket cap screw...... https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-4c81...566177.jpg?c=2 |
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