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Old 10-29-2021, 07:35 PM
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Entropy11 Entropy11 is offline
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Originally Posted by vertigto View Post
I guess the next question is which conversion lenses/kits are closest in shape/convex and pattern as OEM without getting too expensive? Would like to match closely (if reasonable) and for fit in the buckets/rings.

Hella?
Cibie/Valeo?
RMS Lighting/Hector Vega?
IPCW?
Dapper?

Seems like most who responded have mentioned that the conversion kits they used are not as convex. Seems like Dapper is 2-4 times as expensive as the others for the features I would want.
I can only comment on the Cibie/Valeo.

The fit in the buckets/rings is perfect. This is where a lot of the cheap ebay import options fail. The cheap set I had would only sit at an angle that was noticeably “off” from center, as far as the pattern projection was concerned. The Cibie are spot on and their shape vs a sealed beam appears indistinguishable to me.

If you’re set on having the US DOT standard light pattern I think that’s what might turn you away. I believe they’re only available in E-Code. That being said, I can say that I’ll personally never run a standard DOT pattern on a vehicle if I can find an E-Code that will work. The idea that the US forces you into a light pattern that essentially blinds oncoming traffic and limits your view only seems fitting now a days.

The E-Code have a rather distinct horizontal line where the light falls off (as far as the projected pattern is concerned). This enables you to set this line just under where it would shine into oncoming traffic. The end result is just short of absolute daylight below that line (full left to right), and less light thrown into the eyes of oncoming drivers. It’s kind of a win-win. More light further and wider down the road, yet nobody pissed at you while they drive towards you.

FYI- the E-Codes are available in left and right hand drive, so you do have to be aware which lenses you choose. I have a page saved somewhere with part numbers I could dig up.

Sorry- not trying to “sell” the idea of these lights to you or anyone else… the fewer people that want them the more chance I have of finding more. I’m just giving my take on it. Actual first-hand experience/guidance was definitely lacking when I jumped into this idea years ago, and kinda still is.

  #2  
Old 10-29-2021, 05:31 PM
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When sizing lighting with the new bulbs you need to use the Calvin scale and the lumens scale. You want to stay away from cool white or daylight bulbs, they have too much blue in them and will blind on coming drivers. You want the light to have yellow , yellow lighting is easy on the eyes when your eyes first come in contact with it. They call them warm white..

  #3  
Old 10-29-2021, 07:41 PM
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Entropy11 Entropy11 is offline
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I should have also mentioned that the relay mod is nothing to be intimidated by. If you make it buy the right relay setup, there is no wiring to cut/splice and it’s 100% plug/play. You can swap back to your original unaltered wiring in seconds.

You’re basically just using your existing light socket connector at the bulb to trigger a relay to run a set of light bulb sockets directly off your battery for your benefit. Sounds more complicated than it is.

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Old 10-29-2021, 07:45 PM
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M91196 M91196 is offline
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Originally Posted by Entropy11 View Post
I should have also mentioned that the relay mod is nothing to be intimidated by. If you make it buy the right relay setup, there is no wiring to cut/splice and it’s 100% plug/play. You can swap back to your original unaltered wiring in seconds.

You’re basically just using your existing light socket connector at the bulb to trigger a relay to run a set of light bulb sockets directly off your battery for your benefit. Sounds more complicated than it is.

To add about headlight relays,on my 68 I hid mine under the drivers fender and powered it by using the horn relay, very well hidden.

  #5  
Old 02-17-2022, 11:07 PM
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shifty shifty is offline
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Question Relay Kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by Entropy11 View Post
I should have also mentioned that the relay mod is nothing to be intimidated by. If you make it buy the right relay setup, there is no wiring to cut/splice and it’s 100% plug/play. You can swap back to your original unaltered wiring in seconds.

You’re basically just using your existing light socket connector at the bulb to trigger a relay to run a set of light bulb sockets directly off your battery for your benefit. Sounds more complicated than it is.
What relay kit did you use?

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