[dataway]

Before I give my rebuilt instrument panel the A-OK ... I was wondering about replacing the ignition switch, something I'd rather not mess around with after the dash is in.

Question is ... is there a repop that 1. can use the OEM lock cylinder and 2. Isn't a total piece of crap.

I noticed when I was testing on the bench that the generator light was intermittent in the run position, always on in the Accessory position ... I had the engine harness plugged in with the voltage regulator.

I'm assuming the Gen light should be on all the time while the ignition is in the run position with no alternator attached? It would kind of blink on for a moment, but I couldn't get it to stay on. I had power hooked up via a 12v supply ground to the instrument panel and power through the large red lead of the engine harness.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Voltage regulator have a good ground?

Clay

[dataway]

Actually no ... that could be a problem, thanks!

[Greg Reid]

Is someone reproducing the '68 A-body ignition switch now?

[dataway]

From what I am reading on Ames ... they have a repop switch ... but it won't accept the OEM lock cylinder ... so you have to get a repop lock cylinder, which means if you want to use the same key for doors and ignition you have to get repop door locks too. Unacceptable to me.

Other vendors are offering a repop switch with no mention of the above details, but then they rarely offer such details and usually leave it to the customer to discover them.

Anyone ever opened one up and attempt a restoration? Looks kind of like you'd pry open those rear tabs and it would probably explode parts all over the place. And I think those pot metal tabs would just break right off. Would have been nice if the factory didn't run 10,000 amps through the switch

[OG68]

This is the Delco number if you're looking for NOS.

DELCO REMY 1116693 D-1421A

They do pop up on eBay from time to time.

[Greg Reid]

I got one from the classifieds here years ago. I have a spare but the bezel threads are screwed up on it. I would like to hold on to that one though.
I expect someone on this site would have one to sell. Don't be fooled by web searches that show them as being available. Most of the time the seller does not realize that it is a one model only part. At least that was my experience 10-12 years ago.
The clue is when you look at the part description and it shows it as fitting all GM A-bodies and even F-bodies for 68. It's different.

[ddcrank]

I ordered one for my 68 GTO from midwaymusclecar.com it's a work of art and looks the same as the original

[dataway]

dd ... let me know if the original lock cylinder will fit in it properly. Seems like there may be a new batch of US made switches being sold.

[Greg Reid]

That looks nice. If the cylinders exchange l may pick one up.

[ddcrank]

Just checked that new switch I bought. And yes my original lock cylinder fits in it and functions perfectly

[dataway]

Sweet. Thanks, I might have to get one ... better safe than sorry.

[dataway]

I'm still waffling about the ignition switch ... kind of attached to the one I've been putting a key in for the last 40 years (was going to make a wife joke but I didn't).

Anyway, the buzzer only works when I jiggle the key (again I resist the wife jokes). Is that a sign the ignition switch is on it's last legs ... or should I persevere until a shows some other sign of imminent demise?

Just emailed Midway Muscle Car for additional confirmation my OEM cylinder will work. I should probably stop dicking around and just get one before I get the dash all put together and then have to take it back apart to replace that old switch.

[Scott Thelander]

buy the 100.00 nos one on ebay and use your key and tumbler

Im suprised its still around ,,,

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by Scott Thelander

buy the 100.00 nos one on ebay and use your key and tumbler

Im suprised its still around ,,,

It's not anymore!
I've been having some intermittent starter issues recently and I just traced it to the solenoid trigger voltage being low. I suspect the switch so I just pulled the trigger on that one.

[dataway]

Got word back from Midway, as dd said, they say the OEM cylinder will work in it.

[Greg Reid]

Hey, it just occurred to me dataway, I hope I didn't scoop you on that eBay switch. If you prefer that one give me a shout and we'll work something out.
Yesterday, I just happened to find some evidence of an ignition switch problem (low trigger voltage to the solenoid) on my car but I'm not even positive yet because it's an intermittent problem. I remembered this thread.
I modified my solenoid wire at the firewall to give me an opportunity to check the trigger voltage at the firewall the next time the problem pops up.

[dataway]

Hey ... if I don't jump on something immediately it's fair game. I have one coming from Midway .... I'll see what I think of it.

First thing I notice with the reproductions is the terminal rivets ... the old stuff used thick swagged head copper rivets, the new stuff uses just the rolled edge tubular rivets. Usually the rivets are the back side of the contact point inside the switch ... so the quicker they get loose, the quicker the switch fails.

If I decide to use the new one I'll see if I can pull apart the original and find out if there are rebuildable to any degree.

[Greg Reid]

Like I said, I may not need it. I modified the solenoid wire from the switch near the firewall so that the next time this intermittent problem pops up I'll be able to isolate whether the voltage is dropping across the switch or across some unknown point along the purple wire...

[dataway]

Greg, let me know if you end up not needing it.

My bad luck with repops continues. The switch sent by Midway will not work with an original GM lock cylinder. Clocked it properly, tried a dozen times, then measured the internals compared to the original. It's different on the inside and the cylinder will not push in far enough to rotate and lock into place. The original switch and cylinder go together in about five seconds.

Trying to return it but Midway has a no-return policy on this item. Not surprised really, every single repop I've seen either doesn't mention original cylinders, or says you have to buy their own replacement cylinders ... even our host does it that way.

It's a tiny difference, there is a component inside that the cylinder seats on, on the original switch it's about 1" deep, on the repop it's about 0.88", there is no way the original cylinder is ever going to fit. Looks like Ames sells the exact same switch .. and specifies an OEM cylinder will not work with it.